This is my LAST rant!!!!

[grizld1]

Sure, Josh. Remove the caps. Set the range on the meter, join the probes, and zero the needle if it's an analogue type. Then stick one probe in the cap and one probe on the point that screws into the wire.

[detroitmuscle07]

Both caps tested spot on. I was actually hoping that they wouldnt. Could my MAC headpipes be causing me problems? I think that I have hit a wall with sorting this issue out.

[grizld1]

The pipes aren't the problem, Josh. The fuel screws aren't controling the mix, and that often happens when the float valves or the floats themselves are defective or out of adjustment, the choke plunger isn't sealing, or the pilot jets are incorrect size or series. The same thing has happened with two carb sets and two choke plungers and you indicated that pilots of the right series were in there, so I have only three suggestions left. Check actual fuel level with a sight tube, try stock pilots, and, since the PO also had this problem, you might check the list of components above for things you kept from the old carb set (like floats) and swap 'em out.

[detroitmuscle07]

Dick, what size plug do I need to fit my drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl? Do you perhaps have a picture or link of what I need? Is the plug a push in or screw in? Thanks! I will slap the stock pilots in again after I use the sight tube.

[grizld1]

Get a tapered rubber plug with a 1/4" small end; just cut it back till you have a snug fit in the drain plug hole without pushing it in so far that it blocks the main jet. Drill the plug out, slick down a piece of hard plastic tubing with 3 Bond 1104 or Yamabond #4, and shove it through till it's flush with the inside surface of the plug (small end). Stick a piece of clear hose on the tubing, attach something rigid to the outside of the hose to keep it straight while you check level, and you have it.

[detroitmuscle07]

Cool! I will give it a shot.

[nuklhed]

Any updates on this, i'm interested to hear the outcome.

[detroitmuscle07]

No updates yet. I have been really busy with work lately. I still need to go to the hardware store so I can rig up a sight tube. Also, Im going to submerge my floats overnight to see if they have any leaks and im going to take a look at my float needle seat to see if there is anything in there thats causing the needle to jam open. I will report back as soon as I can. Thanks!

[voodoorider]

This may be stupid, but I always check the easiest things first...... have you checked your spark plug gaps? Maybe that 1 side is way off. Maybe you can try indexing your plugs so that the gap faces the intake valve. I don't know if that's gonna help anything, but hey, at least then you can rule that out.

[detroitmuscle07]

Thanks Voodoo, I always gap my plugs properly. I have not tried indexing them, nor have I heard how to properly do that. I think I will look into it.

[grizld1]

Josh, indexing the plugs can make a very small difference in very fine tuning, but it won't help with the issues you're dealing with. Get the scoot running clean, then consider it.

[detroitmuscle07]

Roger that. I submerged the floats last night and they did not take on any gas. I pulled the float needles/seats and they looked fine. There seemed to be nothing out of the ordinary going on. Float height was at an even 25mm across the board. Im going to try to make it to the hardware store today to rig up the sight tube.

[xsleo]

there could be a small burr in the needle seat. make a q-tip with oooo steel wool. spin it in the seat to remove any burrs. others have used this method with good results.

[grizld1]

The sight tube will tell the story on float valve function.

[bradroth]

Kick back at starting can also be caused by a worn timing chain I Know from experience..............Even the adjustments and timing tenshioner can not overcome a stretched chain...