|
|
Post by sjkrebs on Jun 17, 2008 21:06:42 GMT -5
well I got my VF 500 stator and Banshee stator plate in today. I got the adjustable timing stator plate for a banshee. Looking at the back right where on the three spots it bolts on, there is a 3/16 lip. If I use a piece of 3/16 aluminum to make the adapter bracket, then all I need to do is grind down to flush the lip and the adapter and plate should sit at stock height. My only concerns are grinding it perfectly but i think it should work just fine. Anyone have any thought on this before I try it.
|
|
|
|
Post by mrriggs on Jun 18, 2008 9:39:23 GMT -5
Sounds like a good plan. Just be sure to measure before you grind it down. The Banshee bracket sits flush against the case in the center. I'm not sure if the mounting face of the bracket [where the holes are] lines up with the original stator mount points on the case. You may have to go thicker or thinner on your adapter bracket to make it line up propperly.
|
|
|
|
Post by sjkrebs on Jun 18, 2008 22:35:07 GMT -5
ok, Got the rest of my stuff in. Got rid of the old alternator. Went to see if my grinding down and adapter idea would work and realized something. The Adjustable stator plate can be bolted on drilling some new holes and making some spacers. See the pictures.  OK so everything is together now. So now questions arise. I am trying to run without a battery, I bought a 35VDC 4700 uf capacitor. Hooked it up and it won't start. Turned the key off and kicked it a few times to build a charge, it built a charge of about 10volts, but as soon as I turned the key to the on position the capacitor drained before I could get a kick in to try to start it. What did I do wrong? Next time I get a chance I will put a battery back in it and see what I am getting for an output when it runs, but I still expected it to start. Next question, Did you do away with the starting safety relay so that the headlight would come on? And when you did that do you have it so as soon as the key is on the light is on or did you switch it? I'm thinking it needs to be switched so that the capacitor doesn't lose its charge. I might try using a rectifier without a regulator for a higher output. any thoughts? |
|
|
|
Post by mrriggs on Jun 19, 2008 8:23:01 GMT -5
You need to isolate the ignition from the rest of the wiring so it is the only thing hooked to the charging system when starting. I rewired my bike with only the bare minimum. My coil is hooked directly to the regulator, the ignition module is run through the kill switch so I can shut off the engine, and everything else (headlight, tail light, turn signals) is run through the headlight switch. To start the bike; flip headlight switch OFF, kill switch ON, kick motor to life, when running flip headlight switch ON. To shut down everything, flip kill switch to OFF. I'm running an HEI ignition so it will start with much less voltage than the stock ignition. Before I put the capacitor on the charging system I was only getting three volts and the bike still ran. Technically you have already run it without a regulator. The rectifier and regulator are two independent circuits that just happen to be mounted in the same box. The regulator does absolutely nothing until the output from the rectifier exceeds 14.5 volts. The only thing you will gain from running without a regulator is the possibility of blowing out light bulbs when the motor fires up and voltage rises to 20 volts. Don't ask how I know this.  |
|
|
|
Post by sjkrebs on Jun 19, 2008 10:45:43 GMT -5
ok that all makes sense, thanks. I assume with this wiring setup, you have then removed the reserve lighting unit and/or the safety relay?
|
|
|
|
Post by mrriggs on Jun 20, 2008 12:08:38 GMT -5
ok that all makes sense, thanks. I assume with this wiring setup, you have then removed the reserve lighting unit and/or the safety relay? Yeah, that stuff is long gone. The only electrical components I kept from the stock system are the headlight and handlebar switches. Everything else (wiring, lights, ignition, and charging system) has been replaced, or simply eliminated. |
|
|
|
Post by CaptDan on Jun 21, 2008 12:07:27 GMT -5
...The Adjustable stator plate can be bolted on drilling some new holes and making some spacers. See the pictures. Cool! Those plates are readily available, so that is just one more item that will be easy to obtain, if anyone attempts this upgrade.  Does the ignition coil fit with that stator plate, or does its mounting boss still need to be removed? Thanks for your persistance... Good luck! |
|
|
|
Post by sjkrebs on Jun 22, 2008 11:33:30 GMT -5
they are more than readily available, I only ended up with that plate because I found it cheaper than the stock banshee plate, and I found more of them than stock plates. They are the "adjustable timing stator plates". Easily found for $35 on ebay, or $80+ from parts stores. I got mine for $25, from eaby which was cheaper than the very few stock plates I found.
|
|
everything2xs
New Member
Born To Live In The Fast Lane Of A Chopped Up Harley D
Posts: 34
|
Post by everything2xs on Jul 1, 2008 4:06:32 GMT -5
ive seen the list of stator coils that are supposed to be ok to use on the Xs. but im a little confused. i used to work in a bike shop and all the ZZR's ZXR's etc etc all came under the catagory of ZX's, even if they were ZZR's they were still under the ZX catalogue.
I have a fully working ZXR Stator coil. may be off a ZXR600 , will i be able to use this stator?
|
|
everything2xs
New Member
Born To Live In The Fast Lane Of A Chopped Up Harley D
Posts: 34
|
Post by everything2xs on Jul 1, 2008 11:04:38 GMT -5
Ok so i gor the rotor off an RD 350 , the Stator off a ZXR, dunno if it willwork but its worth ago i guess.
But the regrec? i cant get one off a Gs or a VF, i can get one off an R6 for $30, will that work?
the thing that gets me, is how do i make the points opperate off the cam?
do u mean just leave them where they are meant to be on an xs 650? on the end of the Advance rod, cuz the advance rod goes thru the Cam shaft.
I hope this all works,
Can i still usemy Original Xs 650 ignition barrel?
|
|
|
|
Post by waynescyclegarage on Jul 1, 2008 12:04:37 GMT -5
Hi , sounds like you have the hard work done. If you want to run without a battery like I do all you need is a 12V regulator from parts unlimited PN 2112-0090 generally less than $15. Now you will need to replace the DC coils ( where the plug wire comes from) with AC coils from an old dirt bike. I am using the coils from old Honda Express. They have long wires so they can be mounted any where. Hook the little regulator to your lighting circuit and the wire from the windings in the stator to your ignition. Pay attention where the magnets are in the rotor at the fire mark. The magnets need to be lined up with the ignition coils when the bike fires. Good luck wayne
|
|
|
|
Post by mrriggs on Jul 1, 2008 18:48:55 GMT -5
Ok so i gor the rotor off an RD 350 , the Stator off a ZXR, dunno if it willwork but its worth ago i guess. But the regrec? i cant get one off a Gs or a VF, i can get one off an R6 for $30, will that work? Yeah, the R6 should work great. Right, you can use the stock points setup. If you mean coil, then Yes. Hi , sounds like you have the hard work done. If you want to run without a battery like I do all you need is a 12V regulator from parts unlimited PN 2112-0090 generally less than $15. Now you will need to replace the DC coils ( where the plug wire comes from) with AC coils from an old dirt bike. I am using the coils from old Honda Express. They have long wires so they can be mounted any where. Hook the little regulator to your lighting circuit and the wire from the windings in the stator to your ignition. Pay attention where the magnets are in the rotor at the fire mark. The magnets need to be lined up with the ignition coils when the bike fires. Good luck wayne This is a three phase alternator so you must wire it up with a regulator/rectifier and run a DC system. |
|
everything2xs
New Member
Born To Live In The Fast Lane Of A Chopped Up Harley D
Posts: 34
|
Post by everything2xs on Jul 4, 2008 6:30:43 GMT -5
Hmmm im here asking questions again lol.
My zxr stator coil. which i didnt know was gonna work or not, well i still dont really. but the wires coming from it are Black/red Black/red And guess what Black/red lol
Will this be ok? if i just huck it to the wires from the reg rec which are supposed to go down to the stator?
My R6 Reg rec wires are Yellow Yellow Yellow And black and red
if i huck the three yellows to my three red blacks on the stator coil. will it still work?
|
|
|
|
Post by xs650newbee on Jul 4, 2008 22:29:43 GMT -5
hey all,
anybody doing this mod what to sell there good oem rotor that will work on an 81
|
|
|
|
Post by mrriggs on Jul 5, 2008 14:01:35 GMT -5
Hmmm im here asking questions again lol. My zxr stator coil. which i didnt know was gonna work or not, well i still dont really. but the wires coming from it are Black/red Black/red And guess what Black/red lol Will this be ok? if i just huck it to the wires from the reg rec which are supposed to go down to the stator? My R6 Reg rec wires are Yellow Yellow Yellow And black and red if i huck the three yellows to my three red blacks on the stator coil. will it still work? That is it, the three black/red wires on the stator hook to the three yellow wires on the regulator/rectifier. |
|
