78sp
New Member
Posts: 17
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Post by 78sp on Apr 19, 2009 21:27:44 GMT -5
Hey guys, Well I went to install the gear, spring and clip from the starter gear repair kit. So I took off the cover below the left side crankcase cover and found nothing but the Idler gears. So after getting the book out I found out you have to go in from the other side. So I'm down to removing the clutch but can't get the hub nut off with out the special tool that looks like a clutch plate with a handle on it. Do you have to have that tool or is there another way to hold the hub without breaking something? Also any hints about installing the repair kit once I get in there?
Thanks Much for any light you can shed
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Post by pops on Apr 19, 2009 21:51:52 GMT -5
The holding tool that looks like a clutch plate with a single handle welded to it is....trash. Don't waste your time or money on it. Get the holding tool that looks like a pair of visegrips on steroids. It will run you about 20 bucks but worth it. You will need it again.
pops
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Bodhi
New Member
81 Bobber
Posts: 39
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Post by Bodhi on Apr 19, 2009 23:07:18 GMT -5
I just did mine and used a large screwdriver and a rag...worked pretty good.
Of coarse I also used needle nose vice grips on the spring screws.
Did i mention how many uses i've found for a hammer and duct tape
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Post by xsleo on Apr 20, 2009 6:04:42 GMT -5
I just held it with a strap wrench and loosened it with my impact wrench.
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sp78
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by sp78 on Apr 20, 2009 17:19:24 GMT -5
Pops, where do you get the vice grip looking tool?
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Post by pops on Apr 20, 2009 17:29:30 GMT -5
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Post by pamcopete on Apr 20, 2009 17:47:14 GMT -5
78sp Here's a clutch holding tool you can make yourself for about $3.25 with no welding. Use one of the plates from the clutch, drill a couple of holes in it and bolt a Stanley heavy duty "L" bracket to it. Space the bracket from the plate with a couple of nuts. Chamfer the holes and you can reinstall the plate in the clutch; ![]() www.amckayltd.com/clutch tool.jpg[/img] I've still got one in my '78/E. Never know when you are out of town if you might have to take the clutch apart!  |
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Post by jscribner on Apr 21, 2009 14:30:55 GMT -5
I just used a large screwdriver and rag to get it off, but found the trashy clutch tool from MikesXS worked well enough to reassemble with.
John Scribner
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Post by malloy on May 19, 2010 9:45:20 GMT -5
where are you guys placing the screwdriver. I don't want to break an ear off
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Post by 5twins on May 19, 2010 15:45:58 GMT -5
The screwdriver method can be hit or miss. I think a better way when lacking the proper tool is to stick one of the steel plates back in the hub then stick 2 or 3 (or even 4) pairs of vice grips through the slots in the outer hub and lightly clamp onto the steel plate. The more pairs of vice grips you use, the better. This will lock the inner hub to the outer for you. If the vice grips leave any teeth marks on the steel plate, file or sand them smooth before re-using it in the clutch.
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Post by mathil on May 21, 2010 11:45:19 GMT -5
How much force should I be putting into the nut to be taking it off? I welded up a clutch holder tool, locked the crank from spinning by way of a bar through the small ends resting on blocks. I can give a good push to the breaker bar, but I don't know if it should be this difficult to remove the nut.... Its been sitting in oil for 30 years, hasn't it?
No impact wrench at home, and I don't really feel like bringing the motor to the shop.
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Post by mathil on May 21, 2010 18:09:11 GMT -5
Got it.
As a side note, I wish I'd hit the alternator rotor with a mallet before putting the pullers on. I used a 3 jaw and shot that sucker right into the shelf when it finally broke free.
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Post by ShakerNorm on May 21, 2010 18:13:55 GMT -5
It's going to be TIGHT! The spec says 47 ft-lbs, but it's never really THAT easy....... You may need a cheater bar, or an impact wrench. It may have had a lot of years to get REALLY tight on you. Also - be careful when you disassemble it and make sure you get all the parts back together the same way they came apart. Most earlier manuals have the part stackup WRONG! There's a washer that many don't show.....  In this pic, the usual "Missing Washer" is shown - (in pink) between #2 & #3. It also shows the 2 little ball bearings that you REALLY don't want to lose (#18), but they can be replaced if you get the one-piece shaft to replace #18, 19 & 20. Bodhi - I think that Red Green LIED - Duct tape is NOT the handyman's secret weapon  - VICE-GRIPS are! ;D I've never used duct tape to remove a screw or pound a nail, or turn a nut or bolt.....  |
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Post by pamcopete on May 22, 2010 5:50:17 GMT -5
ShakerNorm,
Great color drawing and comments. This needs to be stickied...might result in less beer consumption when doing the clutch!!
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Post by ShakerNorm on May 23, 2010 22:50:40 GMT -5
Damn - That means I gotta get out my crayons and color in the rest of it, then, I suppose.....? I wonder if MS Paint has any more colors? Actually - before I found this pic (uncolored), I'd already reassembled my clutch twice and couldn't figure out why I had a spare washer..... And I still couldn't figure out why it didn't operate properly....  |
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- VICE-GRIPS are! ;D I've never used duct tape to remove a screw or pound a nail, or turn a nut or bolt..... 
