Very useful to torque the 6mm head bolts, especially with the points backing plate on. I welded a piece of steel to the socket, cut a notch at 12 inches from the center of the socket, and pull it with a fish scale at a right angle to the bar. It might not be perfectly accurate, but it seems to be repeatable, which is what really matters, I think. Here's a pic:
Post by drooling-bloodhound on Apr 26, 2009 19:49:27 GMT -5
Who cares if it is accurate it is better to look cool than be correct. I love it. What is the torque supposed to be for those bolts?. I have been looking in the manuals and was not sure what they are called.
Yep, that'll do it. I used to use a similar setup, just a piece of 1/4" square stock with a right angle bend and a groove cut 12" from the drive center. If you want a little more accuracy, Rapala makes a really nice spring scale. Now I use a homemade 1/4" offset with my torque wrench and adjust the reading for the added length.
The problem is, once the points and advance housings are in place, they block straight on access to these bolts. Personally, I use a wobble adapter on my torque wrench. Thankfully, these bolts hold their torque pretty good and don't need checking very often (after the initial few times).
Post by steelburner on Apr 30, 2009 14:00:31 GMT -5
I'd be very careful torquing those bolts NOT to exceed the recommended torque. Here's a guide: www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm. As you can see, it varies by grade, which is a number embossed on the head of the bolt. I found this guide after busting off a 6mm bolt at 8 ft/lbs using a good click-type torque wrench. Five held, but one broke off. Bummer. Naturally, it's in a very inconvenient place (see Murphy's Law, sometimes called "The Universal Perversity of Inanimate Objects.")
If there's no grade on your bolt, I wouldn't exceed the lowest grade's torque setting. Mine weren't stamped with a grade and should have been torqued to about 5 ft/lb, max.
US bolts have a code embossed on the bolt head, with radial marks on the head indicating the grade. No radial marks is Grade 2; three radial lines is Grade 5 and six radial lines is Grade 8.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5