I'm think'n I can do this but I am not sure what I need to dissassemble to remove the rotor. I've got the removal tool. Do I need to take the side panel off or can it be removed through the round access panel? Do I just start unscrewing everything until I get to the rotor?
Any help is appreciated. Maybe there is already a thread that I couldn't find.
Start by putting the bike in second gear. Remove the following:
1. Shift lever. 2. Foot peg. 3. Loosen the clutch cable at the handle bar perch. 4. Remove all screws holding the side cover on. Check for screws on the bottom of the cover. 5. Remove the side cover. 6. Remove the rotor brushes. 7. Remove the two long screws holding the stator cover. 8. Remove the stator cover. Be careful and don't bend the wires unnecessarily. 9. Sit on the bike with it in second gear holding the brake on and reach down with a 17mm socket / ratchet and loosen the rotor shaft nut. 10. Using the rotor puller tool, remove the rotor.
Notes: 1. You will probably need an impact screwdriver to loosen the screws holding the stator cover on. You will probably break the head off of at least one of them. MikesXS has replacements, of course.
2. Check the torque for the rotor nut when you reassemble it. It is lower than you would think. 3. Be very careful when handling the stator wires as they are 30 years old and brittle. 4. DO NOT clean up the stator. Just leave the dirt and crap on it as any attempt to clean it up will probably remove some insulation from the 30 year old wires and cause an expensive short.
Last Edit: Jun 8, 2009 14:56:00 GMT -5 by pamcopete
I worked on the bike with my son last Wed. and followed your instructions. Success!! I now measure 14 volts at 3,000 RPM. My only goof was I didn't think ahead and put the bike in 2nd before I took the side panel off. The two long screws threatened to stop progress, but the impact screwdriver I borrowed from my neighbor worked like a champ. Thanks again.
I am doing a complete rebuild of an engine and had a similar question about installing the alternator rotor. Does it only go on one way? By that i mean, do you have to take into consideration the timing marks when installing the rotor? Do you have to make sure that the pistons are at TDC when you install the alternator and line up the marks with the stator?
Thanks for posting this Pete. I used this today to change out my rotor. I must have done something wrong because now when I turn the key it blows the fuse ( single glass style stock '77 XS) Any Ideas ?
Post by givememytoys on Jul 23, 2009 18:58:27 GMT -5
Sweet!!!!! The rotor came today and I installed it!!!!
I got it from Tim Parrott ent. Dude did me a big favor and shipped the new one before he received my core. Not normal practice but he took a look at my feedback on eBay and said sure I'll send it right out....
Anyhoo here is what the new one looks like..
So I stuck my ohm meter on it and I was happy..
Then I popped the rotor on the bike.
One note that I want to make about installing the stator. It fits snug between the tabs on the engine case,so I had to (((( lightly )))) tap in on with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. Make sure it is lined up right and square. Really light tapping go easy. I'm not sure if yours will fit as tightly as mine. Like I said before as far as I could tell mine had never been off before. Then I installed new brushes.
Then I installed all items in reverse order of disassembly..
I just got a new rotor and stator in the mail, but I forgot to get a puller. I'd really like to get it done over this weekend. Is there a comparable rotor puller I might be able to pick up locally? Do they come is specific sizes?
Great write up. I have to check my rotor soon as my battery is not keeping charge. It's a new Gel battery. When I was riding the other day the bike was sputtering and i had to turn the lights off in order to keep it running and make it home. I would only turn the lights on when I saw a car in the distance. When I got home I check the battery and I had 11.86 Volts. I wanted to check the rotor ohms, but where exactly are you pluging in to get your readings for the rotor? and is there a way to check without removing the rotor?
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5