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Post by xs74bill on Oct 10, 2009 13:20:24 GMT -5
This is what i have so far with the wiring. Is this any where close to correct? I want to have a push button start with a 2-way ignition... Attachments:
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Post by xs74bill on Oct 11, 2009 7:18:54 GMT -5
Or should it be like this... I have a separate reg/rec system. Is either picture close to correct. Attachments:
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Post by pamcopete on Oct 11, 2009 7:49:46 GMT -5
xs74bill,
Both of those drawings are for a combined reg / rect that is on the later models, '80 to '83. Your bike also has one brush grounded.
Also, both of those drawings depict the start relay incorrectly with a ground going to one of the terminals. The start button provides a ground, so the other terminal on the start relay has to go to switched battery through a fuse.
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Post by xs74bill on Oct 11, 2009 9:01:58 GMT -5
How's this gonna work? Please excuse my pathetic attempt at wiring diagram art. Attachments:
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Post by pamcopete on Oct 11, 2009 10:51:33 GMT -5
xs74bill,
That's better! Looks good to me.....especially the PAMCO ignition!
You don't need that many fuses. You can run the starter relay off of the ignition fuse and the speedo lights off of the lights.
The power outlet should have its own inline fuse. It goes directly to the battery, so there will be some real fireworks if it gets shorted, but I have one and it is handy for the trickle charger and to power the timing light.
If you decide to add some turn signals, they can come off of the horn fuse.
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Post by xs74bill on Oct 11, 2009 17:59:38 GMT -5
Are you serious? I have it right? I know..... the Pamco Ignition looks beautiful... eh! So I should run a fuse through the power outlet... ok and also...... I should run the starter solenoid and ignition coil from the same fuse? Attachments:
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Post by pamcopete on Oct 11, 2009 18:56:50 GMT -5
xs74bill, Close...but no cigar...yet....  The starter relay should be wired directly to the fuse instead of after the kill switch. That allows you to do a compression check with the ignition off so the engine doesn't start and / or you don't fry the coil. The Pwr Outlet needs its own inline fuse directly to the battery because one of its uses is a connection for the overnight trickle charger with the ignition switch off. |
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Post by dogbunny on Oct 11, 2009 23:36:59 GMT -5
I have spent a considerable amount of time looking at simplified or "chopper" wiring diagrams with Pamco ignitions and separate regular/rectifiers, and this is by far the best, or at least it will be if you go ahead and make the last two suggested changes.
Great job and thanks to xs74bill and pamcopete.
I am about to wire my bike just like the diagram, but I have one question: I have the green 17-6810 dual coil. Which terminal is positive, or does it matter?
And, which plug wire goes to which cylinder?
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Post by pamcopete on Oct 12, 2009 5:41:44 GMT -5
dogbunny, It doesn't matter which terminal is positive and it also doesn't matter which plug wire goes to which cylinder. What is important, however, is that you mount the coil firmly clamped to the frame for heat dissipation. There are a couple of suggested mounting methods in: www.yamahaxs650.comHere is the specific page: www.yamahaxs650.com/Green%20Coil.htm |
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Post by xs74bill on Oct 12, 2009 6:49:49 GMT -5
Thanks pamcopete,
What would we do without you?
I'm going to make those changes to my diagram and I will post it again... If you have time to review it that would be greatly appreciated....Hopefully this will be the final draft....
Your up pretty early and responding to messages.... You just can't wait to see me screw this up eh... lol
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Post by xs74bill on Oct 12, 2009 7:34:37 GMT -5
Here ya go pete! I made the changes that I think you were talking about... If its still not right please let me know... If it is right?.......... Woo Hoo! Its ugly but that's ok! Thank you pamcopete!!! ;D Attachments:
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Post by pamcopete on Oct 12, 2009 8:27:39 GMT -5
xs74bill, Well, I didn't notice it in the last version, but now you are going backwards! What happened to the headlight Hi / Lo switch and the high beam indicator? The taillight needs to be connected directly to the fuse so it comes on when you turn on the key. Now you have a 10 Amp fuse followed by a 20 amp fuse in the main feed from the battery to the ignition switch! Like, which one is going to blow first? The Pwr Outlet needs its own separate inline fuse.  If you want to clean this up it could be a new standard wiring diagram. Perhaps I will sticky it if it looks decent. You might add the notation for the horn / accessories to include turn signal flasher. |
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Post by xsleo on Oct 16, 2009 17:23:21 GMT -5
Pete, the last one you show looks very good. The fuse block shows 8 slots instead 6.
With 6 fuses this set up gives you room to have two more circuits.
I like having a fuse for each thing. That way if a fuse blows, you know just where to look for the problem. With two or three things on a fuse you have to trouble shoot two or three things to find the trouble.
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Post by xsleo on Oct 16, 2009 17:27:52 GMT -5
The only thing I might add is the safty relay for the starter. It will prevent the starter from running longer than it needs to as the engine starts. This will save wear on the starter gears.
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Post by pamcopete on Oct 16, 2009 17:41:20 GMT -5
xsleo,
Well, more fuses would be a good thing. The idea of this wiring diagram is minimalist for a do it yourself wiring scheme so if they did not have the safety relay or didn't want to install it then they don't have to change the wiring. The other thing that's missing is a neutral switch and light and turn signals, all of which I would install, but this is just bare bones.
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Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5