Is there any good reason for the rectifier to be hot all of the time like in this diagram?
In this revision I have simply moved the ignition switch to immediately after the 20 amp fuse. I also have the starter solenoid on the ignition fuse as was suggested by pamcopete in an earlier post. Will this work for a 1979? I believe the 1979 is identical to the 1974 in that they both have one brush grounded. Thanks.
The output from the rectifier must be disconnected from the regulator by the ignition switch or else the engine will not shut off when you turn the key off because the alternator is still providing power through the rectifier. That's the way you have it in your modified drawing.
THE ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF WHEN YOU TURN OFF THE KEY .
It gets worse:
> In your modified drawing, the battery is the only thing that is disconnected when you turn off the ignition switch. > This means that the battery is not there to provide a stabilizing influence on the regulator. > This means that the regulator will go ape crap and cause the alternator to produce a very unstable voltage that can go very high AND (wait for it....... )
>> FRY ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS .<<
>The engine will eventually shut down when the ignition system is FRIED TO A CRISP BROWNISH COLOR ;D.
Now, if you are a gambling man, you could just remember to shut down the engine with the kill switch instead of the ignition switch, but the first time you forget to use the kill switch........
THE ENGINE WILL KEEP GOING AND ALL OF THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WILL BE FRIED TO A CRISP BROWNISH COLOR .
In the original, correct diagram, the rectifier is effectively disconnected by the diodes, so even though it is connected to the battery full time, there is no current flow.
Last Edit: Dec 14, 2009 12:51:47 GMT -5 by pamcopete
Well, I'm glad I asked, and Thank You! Everything you said makes perfect sense now.
A cleaned-up diagram with the devices that I intend to use. I think I have divided the devices among a minimal number of fuses in a logical way. I will be very surprised if anything about this drawing is wrong...
If you are going to use the stock horn button, it is prewired to provide a ground to the horn, not battery.
The brush configuration as shown is not stock for a 1979 model but would be correct if you intend to use a reg / rect from a later model or if you are going to use the Chrysler regulator with the Radio Shack rectifiers. You will have to isolate the grounded brush on the stock '79 stator using three nylon screws in order to apply battery to the brush.
Blue is the color code for the tail light. Yellow for the brake light. The wires themselves are these colors in a stock tail light.
Otherwise a very clean, basic wiring diagram that a lot of members will appreciate.
Last Edit: Dec 14, 2009 13:23:05 GMT -5 by pamcopete
Yeah, that brush and regulator/rectifier configuration was an oversight. This time I think I've got it. I am using Radio Shack rectifiers. My stock regulator tests good, so I am using it, not the Chrysler regulator, unless someone gives me a compelling reason to switch now. Yes, I am using an aftermarket horn switch. No wonder it was backwards to me in the diagrams I looked at. I am using aftermarket head and tail lights, but I changed the wire colors in the diagram anyway. Thanks a lot for the help, I really appreciate it.
Well, looking good! Just a small suggestion on the horn button. Being as you are using an aftermarket button, you could wire it either way. For this diagram to be useful for others, most of whom would be using the stock horn button, could you change the wiring so your horn button switches ground to the horn?
Okay, and I believe this is finished. I forgot about my speedo light, so I added it. I don't have a hi-beam indicator, so I left that out.
A couple of notes for anyone who really cares: I hate keys. I am not using a key switch. I am using a hidden, heavy-duty DPDT on/on 20 amp toggle switch. When the ignition is toggled off, it turns a fake alarm "arm" light on, which is a 3-volt LED in the handlebar, and which is powered by it's own 3-volt coin cell battery. I have a kill switch next to the throttle control, and I have a second, hidden kill switch wired in series with it.
In order to start the bike you have to know where the hidden switches are, and the two kill switches and the ignition toggle all have to be in the right positions. I feel like that's enough security, and I don't need a key. Anyone who knows bikes can easily hot wire one anyway.
I posted these before, but here they are again. This is my horn button.
The red maple leaf is the start button, and the little toggle switch above the brake perch is one of the kill switches. This brake lever didn't have a switch, so I added a banjo bolt pressure switch for the brake light.
Note the two red LEDs mounted inside the center of the handlebar. One is the neutral indicator, the other is the fake alarm "arm" light.
pamcopete, thanks. This is the fourth handlebar I have internally wired. The first took forever, the last one just took a couple of hours. The clutch lever and master cylinder are from demonscycle.com . They are intended for a Harley Dyna, and require 1" handlebars. The in-the-bar micro switches also require 1" bars. I have been writing about the whole bar and control swap in this thread: xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=Frames&thread=13666&page=1 I will be updating that thread soon now that I have added the throttle control and the bars are finished.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5