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Post by xs74bill on Oct 19, 2009 9:56:21 GMT -5
I like those ideas! If i were to try and work in the saftey relay for the starter... What kind of changes would have to be made?
The extent of my knowledge about electronic components is somewhat limited but the internet helps alot... I shall search for such knowledge!
I'll be back but don't hold your breath!
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Post by dogbunny on Dec 14, 2009 1:12:29 GMT -5
 Is there any good reason for the rectifier to be hot all of the time like in this diagram?  In this revision I have simply moved the ignition switch to immediately after the 20 amp fuse. I also have the starter solenoid on the ignition fuse as was suggested by pamcopete in an earlier post. Will this work for a 1979? I believe the 1979 is identical to the 1974 in that they both have one brush grounded. Thanks. |
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 14, 2009 6:48:15 GMT -5
dogbunny, The output from the rectifier must be disconnected from the regulator by the ignition switch or else the engine will not shut off when you turn the key off because the alternator is still providing power through the rectifier. That's the way you have it in your modified drawing. THE ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF WHEN YOU TURN OFF THE KEY  . It gets worse: > In your modified drawing, the battery is the only thing that is disconnected when you turn off the ignition switch. > This means that the battery is not there to provide a stabilizing influence on the regulator. > This means that the regulator will go ape crap and cause the alternator to produce a very unstable voltage that can go very high AND (wait for it.......  ) >> FRY ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS  .<< >The engine will eventually shut down when the ignition system is FRIED TO A CRISP BROWNISH COLOR ;D. Now, if you are a gambling man, you could just remember to shut down the engine with the kill switch instead of the ignition switch, but the first time you forget to use the kill switch........  THE ENGINE WILL KEEP GOING AND ALL OF THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WILL BE FRIED TO A CRISP BROWNISH COLOR . In the original, correct diagram, the rectifier is effectively disconnected by the diodes, so even though it is connected to the battery full time, there is no current flow. |
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Post by dogbunny on Dec 14, 2009 13:03:10 GMT -5
Well, I'm glad I asked, and Thank You! Everything you said makes perfect sense now.  A cleaned-up diagram with the devices that I intend to use. I think I have divided the devices among a minimal number of fuses in a logical way. I will be very surprised if anything about this drawing is wrong... |
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 14, 2009 13:16:32 GMT -5
DOGBUNNY,
If you are going to use the stock horn button, it is prewired to provide a ground to the horn, not battery.
The brush configuration as shown is not stock for a 1979 model but would be correct if you intend to use a reg / rect from a later model or if you are going to use the Chrysler regulator with the Radio Shack rectifiers. You will have to isolate the grounded brush on the stock '79 stator using three nylon screws in order to apply battery to the brush.
Blue is the color code for the tail light. Yellow for the brake light. The wires themselves are these colors in a stock tail light.
Otherwise a very clean, basic wiring diagram that a lot of members will appreciate.
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Post by dogbunny on Dec 14, 2009 15:17:22 GMT -5
 Yeah, that brush and regulator/rectifier configuration was an oversight. This time I think I've got it. I am using Radio Shack rectifiers. My stock regulator tests good, so I am using it, not the Chrysler regulator, unless someone gives me a compelling reason to switch now. Yes, I am using an aftermarket horn switch. No wonder it was backwards to me in the diagrams I looked at. I am using aftermarket head and tail lights, but I changed the wire colors in the diagram anyway. Thanks a lot for the help, I really appreciate it. |
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 14, 2009 15:26:06 GMT -5
dogbunny,
Well, looking good! Just a small suggestion on the horn button. Being as you are using an aftermarket button, you could wire it either way. For this diagram to be useful for others, most of whom would be using the stock horn button, could you change the wiring so your horn button switches ground to the horn?
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Post by dogbunny on Dec 14, 2009 17:09:02 GMT -5
 Okay, and I believe this is finished. I forgot about my speedo light, so I added it. I don't have a hi-beam indicator, so I left that out. A couple of notes for anyone who really cares: I hate keys. I am not using a key switch. I am using a hidden, heavy-duty DPDT on/on 20 amp toggle switch. When the ignition is toggled off, it turns a fake alarm "arm" light on, which is a 3-volt LED in the handlebar, and which is powered by it's own 3-volt coin cell battery. I have a kill switch next to the throttle control, and I have a second, hidden kill switch wired in series with it. In order to start the bike you have to know where the hidden switches are, and the two kill switches and the ignition toggle all have to be in the right positions. I feel like that's enough security, and I don't need a key. Anyone who knows bikes can easily hot wire one anyway.  I posted these before, but here they are again. This is my horn button.  The red maple leaf is the start button, and the little toggle switch above the brake perch is one of the kill switches. This brake lever didn't have a switch, so I added a banjo bolt pressure switch for the brake light.  Note the two red LEDs mounted inside the center of the handlebar. One is the neutral indicator, the other is the fake alarm "arm" light. |
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 14, 2009 17:53:43 GMT -5
dogbunny,
All the above is way cool. Where did you get the clutch lever and brake master cylinder? Running the wires in the handle bars must have been tedious.
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Post by dogbunny on Dec 15, 2009 9:28:37 GMT -5
pamcopete, thanks. This is the fourth handlebar I have internally wired. The first took forever, the last one just took a couple of hours. The clutch lever and master cylinder are from demonscycle.com . They are intended for a Harley Dyna, and require 1" handlebars. The in-the-bar micro switches also require 1" bars. I have been writing about the whole bar and control swap in this thread: xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=Frames&thread=13666&page=1I will be updating that thread soon now that I have added the throttle control and the bars are finished. |
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