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Post by tonyc2me on May 3, 2010 18:40:20 GMT -5
Saturday I blew a Boyer Coil. Has anyone had one replaced on warranty? I am sure it was my fault. One good thing, the coil that Mr. Riggs uses on his ignition works with a Boyer ignition. In fact seems to work better. Thanks TC
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Post by tonyc2me on May 10, 2010 21:42:38 GMT -5
Here is a picture of the coil mount I made for the GM coil. Thanks TC Attachments:
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Post by tonyc2me on May 10, 2010 21:50:31 GMT -5
Another picture of the mount. Thanks TC Attachments:
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Post by ShakerNorm on Sept 25, 2010 0:25:33 GMT -5
Tony -
I think I've blown the coil on my Boyer, as well. What kind of coil did you use to replace yours?
I'm thinking of using Pete's Green Monster coil (more voltage, less $$$ than the replacement Boyer coil), but I'm not sure if the Boyer box would handle it.
I haven't metered my old coil, yet (I'll do that in the morning), but I'm only running on the left jug. After 10 minutes of idling the right jug was still stone cold, and I could smell fuel from the right exhaust pipe, so I know it's getting gas......
Has anyone else used non-Boyer coils with the Micro-Digital system?
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Post by grizld1 on Sept 25, 2010 8:23:40 GMT -5
Norm, with the Micro Digital (red box) system you can use any coil with primary resistance between 3.5 and 5 ohms (higher is better IMO). Dyna and Accel both offer coils in this range, and there's Chinese/Taiwanese stuff around too. Boyer offers their own coil only for the Micro Power (blue box) system; it can be replaced with any 0.6 ohm coil.
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Post by tonyc2me on Sept 25, 2010 10:04:20 GMT -5
Norm I am using the GM coil that Mr. Riggs set up on his Toyota $19 ignition system. I also have the fully digital Boyer. The coil has very little resistance like the Boyer, less than 1.0. I do now have a new Boyer through warranty but I do not think I will be changing out. You can find these coils at the wreckers for hardly anything. You will want to read Mr. Riggs article on the site and follow his instructions for mounting. Good luck Tony C
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Post by grizld1 on Sept 25, 2010 14:44:59 GMT -5
Tony, that low-resistance coil will work only with the Micro Power system. It will not work with the older Micro Digital system.
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Post by tonyc2me on Sept 25, 2010 16:12:07 GMT -5
You are right. I have a Boyer blue box. The red box should be the same for BSA and Triumph. TC
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Post by ShakerNorm on Sept 25, 2010 21:45:22 GMT -5
I just verified that I have the Micro Power (the red box) system (Griz - you got your colours reversed), and I finally got a chance to check the coil today. It looks exactly like Mike's part number 12-0094. But if Griz is right and high resistance is good for this system, I should be able to swap in the Green monster coil (3.3 ohm), or maybe an Accel Power Pulse coil (4.2 ohm)? Does anyone know what the specs are on a good coil? Interesting - here's my results The primary coil measured 0.7 ohms (no matter which way I put the meter leads) The secondary coil is polarized - if I put the leads one way, I got .369 M-ohms If I put them the other way I got 1.79 M-ohms There was no continuity between the primary and secondary coils. Is this normal?  Seems to me I should get about the same either way on the secondary coils, but I'm no expert on these things. I also checked my plug wires and caps - I didn't disassemble them, but the left showed 5.63 K-ohms, the right had 5.85 K-ohms. Since they are 5K caps - seems about right.  I also started it up again. I'm still only running on the left cylinder - nothing on the right  . So I swapped plug wires, and guess what? It was running on the left cylinder and nothing on the right.... STILL!  Is it possible to fry a spark plug? I'm going to check them out and try swapping them tomorrow.....  |
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Post by tonyc2me on Sept 25, 2010 22:41:02 GMT -5
It sure sounds like a bad plug. In the morning I am putting my engine back in the frame. Good luck with your problem. TC
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Post by ShakerNorm on Sept 25, 2010 22:53:39 GMT -5
What confuses me about that theory, Tony, is the fact that with this setup - the "spark" actually starts at the engine on one side, travels across the plug gap, up the plug wire, through the coil (which is what actually forces the electrons to move), then down the other plug wire, and through that plug. Essentially - it fires both plugs at the same time (of course one spark is wasted on the exhaust stroke on that cylinder), one with a positive polarity, the other with a negative polarity.
If one plug won't fire - logically, the other plug shouldn't fire, either, because it can't make a complete circuit.
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Post by mrriggs on Sept 25, 2010 23:40:19 GMT -5
What confuses me about that theory, Tony, is the fact that with this setup - the "spark" actually starts at the engine on one side, travels across the plug gap, up the plug wire, through the coil (which is what actually forces the electrons to move), then down the other plug wire, and through that plug. Essentially - it fires both plugs at the same time (of course one spark is wasted on the exhaust stroke on that cylinder), one with a positive polarity, the other with a negative polarity. If one plug won't fire - logically, the other plug shouldn't fire, either, because it can't make a complete circuit. If the plug is fouled or the porcelain is cracked then the spark will jump from the electrode directly to the body of the plug instead of the ground strap. You still have a complete circuit just not a useable spark. |
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Post by ShakerNorm on Sept 26, 2010 1:33:22 GMT -5
That's true....... If I swap plugs - I'll know for sure - either way I'll be putting in new plugs.
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Post by grizld1 on Sept 26, 2010 6:30:26 GMT -5
Norm, re. product names: "Micro Digital" is the older, 4-step curve, red box system, "Micro Power" is the newer, constant curve, blue box system. Anyway, the red box system needs a high resistance coil. Have you checked resistance in the caps and wires?
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Post by ShakerNorm on Sept 26, 2010 12:04:11 GMT -5
Griz- the Micro POWER is definitely the Red box system....  It's been on there for around 6 or 7 years now, and I bought it used from Evil Bay with the coil that looks like Mike's part number 12-0094. It's part number BOX00210. It looks like it's may have a date on the label that says 02 4 23 - although it may not be a date code at all. Not sure if the MicroDigital would be the newer or older system, now.... Last time I checked it with the timing light, it did seem to be a nice constant advance - not in steps, but I'm going to do a little more research. Yeah, I did check the caps and wires - I didn't disassemble them, but both sets measured about 5.7 K-ohms. Although if I replace them, I'll go with all new ones anyway. |
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Seems to me I should get about the same either way on the secondary coils, but I'm no expert on these things. 
. So I swapped plug wires, and guess what? It was running on the left cylinder and nothing on the right.... STILL!
Is it possible to fry a spark plug? 
