skaere
Junior Member
Posts: 77
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Post by skaere on May 3, 2010 20:21:53 GMT -5
what is it in your area? i would like to get both my spoked wheels done (do they have to be unstrung?), a headlamp, handlebars, and headlamp brackets. i assume you can powdercoat over chrome? have people had decent luck with the harbor freight powdercoater and and oven? (the prices im getting quoted here locally make me ill.)  guy quoted me $270 for what i mentioned. but maybe im just cheap. . |
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Post by txpowdercoating on May 3, 2010 21:01:49 GMT -5
average apes I get 50-60 for one color, average stock bars 40.
yes rims can be done w/o unlacing if you want them all one color.
If they come complete, I get 80 each rim, one color, no candy or flake, or high gloss clear coat, thats extra.
If they come broken down, I usually get 40. for each hub and 40 for the rim and charge 25 for the spokes if they want them done a diff color.
These prices include stripping prep. Also, my price includes being done by me and not an assembly line mindest....
headlamp is hard to quote w/o seeing, there are sooooooo many different styles.
Timothy
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Post by bradshaw106 on Feb 10, 2011 13:48:11 GMT -5
out of curiosity what would it cost to powder coat a frame black??
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Post by grepper on Feb 11, 2011 11:14:32 GMT -5
One year ago I paid $295 for all the black parts (less the foot pegs) on my 78 Standard. Frame, swing arm, kick and center stand, battery box, air box, all the engine mounts, triple tree, risers, chain guard, headlight bucket, speedo and tack bucketes, plus some other stuff... Project Post xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=project&action=display&thread=14570 |
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Post by Chuckwagon on Feb 13, 2011 7:31:34 GMT -5
I got my frame, chainguard, battery box, swingarm done for $200. Tank and sidecovers in a two layer metalic powdercoat for $250. I stripped most of the paint off all items, so they gave me a break on the sandblasting, since it didn't take them as much time.
As far as the rims go, yes, disassemble them. You would have trouble adjusting the spokes after powder coating. I was going to have my rims powdercoated, but the local MX shop guy (who deals with a lot of spoked wheels) said to stay away from that - he recommended anodizing instead since the rims are aluminum. Powdercoat has a thickness to it that can wear where the spokes contact the rim and hub... causing the wheel to need frequent spoke adjustments. Makes sense. A quarter turn on a few spokes makes a big difference. Anodizing the rims and hubs black will cost me about $100.
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robbo
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by robbo on Feb 28, 2011 7:06:28 GMT -5
I was quoted $200 aus here on the Gold Coast Aus just for my frame ... grepper you got a sweet deal!
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Post by grepper on Feb 28, 2011 10:12:25 GMT -5
I had the same shop do my bobber two years before. He did my wheels, calipers, rotors and a couple of small parts a color he calls Almost Chrome for about $200. The tank, rear fender, frame and some other parts are a SUPER metallic bright red (hard to tell from the picture). He's got a variety of nice high end metallic colors, but they are pricy, I think I paid around $500 for all the red parts.  |
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Post by ShakerNorm on Feb 28, 2011 19:52:58 GMT -5
Oooooooooooooooo that looks SWEET Grepper!
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Post by Chuckwagon on Mar 6, 2011 10:35:22 GMT -5
I was going to have my rims powdercoated, but the local MX shop guy (who deals with a lot of spoked wheels) said to stay away from that - he recommended anodizing instead since the rims are aluminum. Powdercoat has a thickness to it that can wear where the spokes contact the rim and hub... causing the wheel to need frequent spoke adjustments. Makes sense. A quarter turn on a few spokes makes a big difference. Anodizing the rims and hubs black will cost me about $100. Scrap the idea of anodizing. The shop told me that it can't be done due to the steel in the hubs (drum brake and rotor threaded inserts). I didn't get the details (heard it second hand through the MX shop I dropped them with), but the anodizing process wouldn't work with the two metals. I studied enough chemistry years ago, but it is lost in my mental archives so I can't venture a complete theory, but i'm guessing it is some sort of cathodic corrosion with the differring metals, acid and electric charge involved. I'm either going to powdercoat or polish the rims & hubs. I like the blacked out rim look, and I'm quite burned out on polishing aluminum, so I might just eat my words and try powdercoating.  |
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xs1961
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by xs1961 on Mar 29, 2011 17:00:10 GMT -5
Just had my frame & swing-arm blasted & powdercoated for £60...Gone up £10 since 2 years ago..
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Post by ShakerNorm on Apr 1, 2011 0:29:09 GMT -5
I guess that works out to about $120..... not too bad for both the frame and swingarm.... I hope they did a decent job for ya.
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Post by mastertacks on Apr 28, 2011 14:26:06 GMT -5
I got my frame, rimes, forward controls, fork trees and handlebars cost me $300 in Minneapolis. If anyone wants the number let me know!
Cheers
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Post by mastertacks on Apr 28, 2011 14:27:56 GMT -5
Crew Chief.......
Who did your exhaust??? Its awesome!!!!
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Post by kscustom on Jun 16, 2011 20:11:54 GMT -5
Hey new here in KS about to have all my black done, in the next couple weeks. For mag wheels do I have to do anything special?
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Post by ShakerNorm on Jun 16, 2011 20:58:31 GMT -5
KS - some powdercoaters won't do wheels due to their concern about the strength of the wheel after baking the powder, so check with them about that. I don't think anyone here has had any problems with it, though.
You will want to mask off (or have your coater mask off) a few areas before you get it done.... The flat where your brake disk mounts (on both sides, preferably), the center bore (where the bearings sit), and have them plug the hole for your valve.
It would probably be a good idea to remove the wheel bearings (great time to replace them with new ones anyway) to avoid problems that could happen with metal expansion (steel bearings and aluminum hubs expand at different rates when heated). Make sure this area is masked off or you'll never get new bearings in there.
The flat area where the brake disk mounts is basically just to ensure that your brake disk will still line up with the caliper. Run a tap through the mounting holes after it's coated to make sure that none got in there. It's probably a good idea to do this on both sides, just in case you want to run dual disks.
And the valve hole - it's easier to plug it (they just use a silicone plug) than to have to remove the coating when you find that the hole is too small .....
For masking, they use a special heat-resistant tape for most of it - regular masking tape doesn't cut it at 400*+ when baking.....
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