My headlamp seems to work fine - normal and highbeam. Flashers do not work, tail light does not get brighter [second filament] when either front or rear brake engaged. Horn also does not work.
Headlight 'warning' light is on . Forgive my new-ness please: I'm not sure what that light means.
The wiring in the bike has been butchered in a few places. What I was wondering, is there a place I should start looking based upon my above list of not working items? They all were working, and all seemed to stop working at the same time [ ~ 1 week ago ].
Post by retiredgentleman on Aug 5, 2010 9:58:27 GMT -5
The turn signals,horn and brake light are all powered from the "signals" 10 amp fuse. Start looking there for your problems.
The original 4 position fuse panel on these bikes, while OK when new, is now completely worn out and must be replaced. Replace with automotive blade type fuse holders...................solder leads and use heat shrink insulation.
The white light is the "headlight failure" indication from the Reserve Lighting Device. However, if your headlights are working for high and low then there is no problem. The RLD senses the current flow in the low beam and if the low beam fails it automatially switches over to the high beam. The RLD is not of much value, and many people connect the blue/black to the blue/yellow at the RLD, and then remove the RLD.
Post by micahdsmith on Aug 5, 2010 12:00:12 GMT -5
Of course it's the fuse. I feel silly for not checking that, thanks for your response.
Good point on the fuse holder, I see that has been brought up before on these boards - sounds like good advice.
RLD - easy enough, I like the idea of getting rid of it: My neutral indicator is pretty hard to see even at night, I think I'll try switching it over to the headlight failure light when I get electrically ambitious.
Mica - Princess Auto has a 6-position blade-type fuse holder for a decent price - but it's only got a single buss bar setup - I actually took one apart, cut the buss bar in two, and have the battery power going to one pair of fuses, and switched power to the other 4.
My 79 was also pretty butchered up and I replaced the wiring harness (from XS650Direct - MikesXS up here in Canada) for $80. I also did some modifications (properly - not like the previous owners) before I installed it - I removed the RLU, the turn signal cancel, did PamcoPete's electronic voltage regulator and rectifiers, got my electronic ignition installed properly, and generally did a complete overhaul of the electrical system. If you need wiring diagrams (all nicely coloured so they're easy to read) or anything like that - let me know and I'll send them to you.
Last Edit: Aug 5, 2010 20:19:50 GMT -5 by ShakerNorm
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Post by retiredgentleman on Aug 6, 2010 11:40:08 GMT -5
The Neutral Light should not be difficult to see even in daylight. A PO may have installed the wrong wattage bulb, or there may be dust/dirt inside the lens. I would remove the tach and open it up to have a look.................probably just needs a new bulb (of correct wattage).
deadlykittin: loses compression after the first kick. Ontop of that, i noticed it 1, wont go into neutral when sitting still. and now it dies after getting it started in neutral and going into gear
Aug 4, 2022 17:11:01 GMT -5