Basic street system + batt, what to use?

[scott87]

Here's what I need to power:

Headlight, tail light, possibly small signals.

No E-start.

I'm thinking I'd like to use one of those small sealed batteries, or maybe one of the ultra small sportbike battery replacements that has hit the market, but they are very expensive and some can't use a standard battery tender. I don't like the idea of buying a dedicated trickle charger since I already have several Battery Tenders.

I'm going to fab up a tray to hide everything under my fibergalss seat, and make a new harness from scratch.

I have a '79, bone stock elec system for now. I'm pretty set on the Pamco Pete ign. system with the green coil, etc, but the rest of it is kind of confusing me - electronics are my worst area of knowledge.

I read the entire permanent mag thread, but I'm not sure it's for me... I'm not really trying to eliminate the battery, and I've seen capacitors blow on other people's bikes so I don't want to run one of those either. I'm aware you can run the perm mag with a battery. I like the use of the modern reg/rec and stator in those systems.

I also like the Sparx unit, but at just a tick over $500 I don't think that's likely in this bike's future. I'll have a boatload stuck into the chassis by the time I'm done and I really don't want to just throw money at the thing everywhere else.

I also briefly read a thread about a Chrysler stator and a Radio Shack reg/rec? Is that right? I like the cost savings, but to be honest the reg/rec system kind of concerns me, and there see mto be quite a few exposed jumper wires and such that seem like they could get easily damaged.... am I wrong?

So, in summary - this is a Sunday morning streetbike, kick only, with head and tail light and probably signals. I'm looking for a reliable, relatively free charging system to work with the Pamco ignition and a small sealed battery.

What route would be the best for this application?

[ShakerNorm]

Scott -
I completely redid my electric system on my 79 this spring. I bought a brand new harness from Mike's and eliminated everything I didn't want (RLU, Light Checker, signal canceler, etc). I set up my electronic ignition on it (I have a Boyer, but Pete's won't be any more difficult), and the Chrysler VR, and bridge rectifiers setup (PamcoPete's alternator mods). I even did another mod to install a light that tells me when my alternator is failing (just in case). I also swapped out the old style fuse box for a 6-position blade-type setup.

Ever since I did it, I haven't had any electrical problems with it at all, and I'm VERY pleased with the results.

If you'd like, I have color copies (easy to read) of both the original wiring diagram and my modified one - if you'd like to compare, and make your own modifications. I've tried posting it on my Photobucket, but they shrink it down just too much to make it easily readable, and Frapppr seems to have crashed - so if you'd like a copy - just send me a PM with your email and I'll send them to you.

At least they may be a good starting point....

[xsleo]

There are many good diagrams that will fill your needs. Pamcopepte's Mods are inexpensive and very reliable. I think he's been running the set up on one of his bikes for over ten years.
If there are exposed wires getting damaged then the fault is with the installer.
The stock stator and rotor can be very reliable. The problems that crops up most are from age and heat.
The 30+ year old stock mechanical regulator and selenium rectifier can make the alternator work harder than it needs to. This causes extra heat. Heat makes the alternator work harder.
The mechanical regulator doesn't regulate very well at higher rpms, often charging at 15+ volts. This can boil the battery. Be harder on the bulbs and such.
The parts Pamcopete uses are higher quality parts. They don't over work the alternator. The Chrysler regulator maintains a steady 14.5 volts to the system at any rpm much above idle.
The rectifier is much more efficient so it don't overload anything.
If your stator and rotor are good then the Pamcopete mods will insure they stay good longer. They wont make bad parts good, so if yours are bad or about to go bad then Gary at Custom Rewinds 800-798-7282 is the goto guy for replacements.

[ShakerNorm]

Spot On, Leo -

Almost all the problems I had were with old brittle wiring, and heat - which is why I had to replace all the wiring from my stator, and most of the wiring for my starter. These are the highest power areas on the harness, and most of the wires had either gone brittle and broke, or had melted the insulation and connectors. Check them carefully - there are sleeves over most of them, but that just hides any damage or melted wires.

Pete's mods (Mopar VR and new rectifiers) had made my alternator run much more efficiently - but trying to run all that power through old, bad wires isn't a good thing. You're looking for a fire - or worse - if you don't correct any other problems you find.

[scott87]

Thanks fellas.

Norm, PM is incoming.

[ShakerNorm]

Answered you today.