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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 1, 2010 22:14:45 GMT -5
im building a chopper using the entire wiring harnes but having a problem when it comes to the 2 left over wires i have going to the new hi/low switch for a harley it only has 3 wires and the original switch for the xs650 has 5 the 2 wires are the blue/green and blue/yellow they come from the reserve lighting unit do i need them hooked up i beleive i do but dont have a place to atach them please bail me out here
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Post by ShakerNorm on Sept 2, 2010 7:48:36 GMT -5
A lot of us (me included) have removed the RLU totally. I guess we figure we can switch to high beam manually if our low beam cuts out......
There are a couple threads about it.
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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 2, 2010 16:13:37 GMT -5
if i were to remove it totally what else would it effect and my current problem is that the harley hi/low beam switch only has 3 wires which 3 wires would i end up using from the original harness thanks kevin
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Post by grinder on Sept 2, 2010 18:06:21 GMT -5
If you want to disconnect the RLU connect the blue/black and the blue/yellow wires together at the RLU plug. That sends power from the headlight on/off switch to the dimmer switch.You should have 12V at the blue/yellow wire with the key on after you do this.
On the harley switch there should be a common lead and a low and hi beam lead. Connect the blue/yellow to the common, green is low beam and yellow is high beam from the yamaha harness.
A simple way would be to just find a wire that is hot with the key on (brown wire usually) and just run it to the common wire on your switch. Then connect the other two to the hi/lo beams on the headlight.
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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 2, 2010 18:48:02 GMT -5
ok i have read how to bypass the rlu but it still leaves me with the blue/yellow and the blue/green i think i alleady have the brown connected to the switch giving it power so do i need to connect the blue/yellow and the blue/green and if so are you saying to twist them to the hi and low wires leading to the switch i have not bypassed the rlu as of yet and i need to know weather i need to if im tieing the wires into the others or if the reserve lighting unit will still work hooked up and tied in thanks kevin
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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 2, 2010 18:55:34 GMT -5
sorry about the spelling in the last post this wireless keyboard wasnt typing right anyways i want to try to hook it up so the rlu still works and just need to know where to tie them in i think your telling me to just connect one to each wire leading to the headlight aka hi and low beams if so which one would go to hi and which one to low i have one thats blue/yellow and one thats blue/green thanks kevin
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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 4, 2010 21:01:24 GMT -5
does anybody know where i hook up the blue/yellow and blue/green wires when i only have a switch with 3 wires
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Post by grinder on Sept 4, 2010 22:06:17 GMT -5
I would still not use the RLU and just use the switch as you have it wired now but if you want to try to get it to work I would try this but no guarantees. The blue yellow would go to the common on the new switch(where you have the brown now) and the blue green to the green low beam wire. You should also check the resistor to make sure it's good and not falling apart.
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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 6, 2010 17:01:34 GMT -5
i may just scrap it like u said i thought it might be easier to use whats there seen as im new to wiring my own bike but your right the simpler the better do i need the safty relay as well if i start from scratch if im gonna make my own harnes i want it as simple as possible i will still be running the mini tackw/ instrament lights in it and speedo from mikes xs and also some led running / blinker light if theres a simpified faiagram out ther for that than id love to get my hands on it thank kevin
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Post by xsleo on Sept 6, 2010 17:24:13 GMT -5
Plenty of diagrams out there. A search and you will find lots. I use LED lights for the tail/brake light and the turnsignals. You might find a flasher locally that works with LED's. I got mine from www.superbrightleds.com The L-F-S- pin is an easy one to install. It has the bullet style connectors. The L-F-S-flat will work too, it has blade terminals in a plastic housing. The terminals can be unplugged from the plastic and plugged into the flasher socket.It will flash just one LED bulb and up to 150 watts of bulbs.
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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 6, 2010 19:30:50 GMT -5
still looking for a diagram ive been serching but the only simple ones i find that have blinkers are usng points and i have the tci box and all the other electic junk ..... but about these blinkers i got them installed and they didnt flash except when i push the button each time i push it they would come on sooo xsleo are you saying i need to get these flashers you mentioned in the last post in order for them to blink and sorry if i sound dumb but do i need 4 of them one for each led bulb that im using as blinkers
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Post by xsleo on Sept 7, 2010 10:59:00 GMT -5
The one I suggested, you need just one. It replaces the stock flasher. The stock flasher will only flash two 27 watt signal bulbs and the 3 watt indicator bulb. If you change to a smaller bulb, lots of the aftermarket signals use a 23 watt bulb, it won't flash. Come on just no flash. same with LED's. light no flash. You may be able to get one from the parts store that will flash the LED's. None I tried would. So I tried the L-F-S unit from Superbright, it works very well, unless you have it mounted too close to a super hot ignition coil, like Mike's Green monster. I did at first and the flasher worked good untill I started the bike and they went nuts. Moved the flasher from between the gussets for the head of the frame above the coil to back by the battery box. Now all is golden. As far as the diagram, points or other ignitions are basicly the same. Where the wire comes from the kill switch to the points, just hook that wire to the red/white on the TCI box and the coil. The rest of the wires from the pick up TCI box and coil hook up just like stock. I have found that if you can look at a diagram and not see the whole thing, but see each subsystem on it's own and how they hook together helps. The first time I rewired a bike, back in 78 or so, All I had was a Clymer book. I studied the diagrams till my head hurt. Then one day it all clicked. If I just concentrated on just a small part of the wiring it started to make sence. I started by getting the alternator, reg/rec wired. once you get that wired up and your sure it's right, then you start adding sections. Once I was sure I had the charging wired right with an ignition switch so the power to the brushes and regulator turn off with the key switch, don't want no dead battery. I then hooked a wire from the key switch to a fuse, from the fuse to the coil, coil to condensers and points. Or in your case the TCI and coil. With this much wired I could start the bike and make sure the charging system was working. Now that I had the charging and ignition working, I then started adding a circuit for each subsystem. The electric starter, with the safety relay. The headlight and tail light. With out any of the extra crap. The brakelight, horn, turn signals. If you can look at the diagram and see it as seperate subsystems instead of a whole big mess it will help.
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Post by kstinson1977 on Sept 7, 2010 15:37:11 GMT -5
thanks for the help i ordered the flashers from super brights and ill try ur advise breaking down the wiring into sections but if anybody finds a good simple diagram with blinkers please post a web page for me
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