Hi all, I'm starting to build a new wiring harness for my chopper. I'm running with only a capacitor in place of the battery, a custom permanent magnet alternator and therefore kick-start only. To aid in being able to kick the bike over with the most power available for spark I'd like to isolate all the lighting systems and be able to turn them on after the engine is running smoothly.
I understand wiring schematics and I am confident on how to wire the different options I'm looking it. What I need help with is what is the better option.
It seems that the "modern" way to isolate this is to use a relay controlled by a switch.
I am using a couple of relays for things on my bike. I guess the downside would be if the coil on the relay fails so does what the relay is powering. Very low current draw on the relay's coil though, I'm hoping they last a long time but will carry a spare.
Pamcopete has used a relay in his ignition circuit to power the ignition straight from the battery. The kill switch just turns the relay off and on. He has used it for years. I have done this on my bike. The kill switch can be a source of ignition problems. Having the headlight on it's own switch is a good idea. Thats how the older bikes were set up. The tail light lit with the key on. This was a safety thing. I have my 75 wiring set up so with the light switch off none of the lights are lit. this leaves all the power for starting the bike. I also ride around with out the lights because I forget to turn them on. I'm thinking of wiring in a safety relay from a later bike and have it turn on the lights when the bikes running. I will run it through a resister as well, this will light the headlight at about 3/4 power. This will save a bit of amps. When I turn the headlight switch on it will bypass the resister and come on full bright. I have also converted all but the headlight and gauge lights to LED's. This save a bunch of amps. Charges the battery much faster.
75 XS650B with 79 forks and dual disc, braided lines, disc brake on back, Pamco ignition, Pamcopete's reg/rec mods, kill switch relay, home made harness, all LED turn, brake and tail lights, tapered head bearings, bronze bushes in swing arm, soon to get shock and fork upgrades
The usual reason for using a switch and relay rather than just a switch to control a large power draw (such as the entire lighting system on your bike) is that the power draw will spark every time the switch is turned either on or off. Of course this burns out the (usually small) contacts on the switch, which will eventually fail. Relays are made to take the larger current draw and handle the spark - so over the long term, it makes them more reliable, and your switch (which usually has pretty small contacts) isn't as apt to fail, either.
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If you keep your switch,good quality,close and the proper gage wire you will not need a relay. Of course having one will make things better. I am not using one on my self-made harness. I separated all of my lighting, charging, and ignition circuits. Each one has their own fuse. Good Luck Tony C.
Well, one of the problems with using a switch for the headlight is that you will probably forget to turn it on and that can lead to a ticket, or an accident, so you can use a relay operated by the neutral switch to turn the headlight off when in neutral for starting, but the relay will turn the headlight on when you put the bike in gear in case you forget to turn on the switch.
Thanks, Pamcopete. But can you elaborate for me? I know how to do that using the neutral switch if the setup is battery powered, but that wouldn't work with a batteryless setup. So can you explain to me how to do it? Perhaps my knowledge of the neutral switch is confused so you might want to include that. Thanks. (Also to be specific, I'm using the banshee permanent mag setup on this bike, the reg/rec has 4 blades, 3 for the white wires from the stator and one for the red wire which is wired to a capacitor)
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
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trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
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trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
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adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
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