Eliminating stock gauges

[mikebritton]

Let me start out with I can't put batteries in a flashlight.
Now, I'm building a tracker out of my '75 XS. I'm not going to use the stock gauge unit, will probably use just a speedo from Mike's.
Can I just wire the stock switch sets on the handlebars into the stock headlight and aftermarket turn signals?
I have built two looms from scratch, one for my Bonneville, and one for a Harley I built once, but neither had turn signals. Still, this doesn't look too complicated. Am I missing something?
Headlight goes to headlight switch and ground, and signals go to signal switch and ground right?
The indicator lights on Mike's speedo are wired in series with whatever right?
When I dissolved this bike to build a tracker, and saw that bird's nest inside the headlight I thought to myself, it doesn't have to be this hard. Should be simple, right? Thanks, Mike

[xsleo]

Yes. I rewired my 75 with most of the stock switches. I used a different key switch, just off/on. I used the starter and safety relay. I used a 6 fuse block so I could have most everything on it's own fuse.
Once you get the charging system and ignition wired up, the rest is fairly easy.
After your main switch feeds your fuses, run one fuse to power the kill switch, the kill switch feeds the ignition and the starter relay.
One fuse feeds the lights off/on switch, from there power feeds the dimmer switch, the dimmer switch feeds the high and low beam in the headlight.
One fuse can feed the brakes and turn signals. From this fuse feed power to the + or batt prong on the flasher, from the L prong to the Brown/white wire of the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch feeds the lights on a dark green wire, the right. On a chocolate wire, the left.
The brake switch can get fed from the same fuse as the turn signals. Run a wire from the fuse to each brake switch, from each brake switch to the brake light.
When I rewired my 75 I ran the wires from the handle bars back under the tank instead of into the headlight bucket. I have only 7 wires in my headlight bucket. Just the wires to run the high/low beams of the headlight and the turnsignals.
I have the power to the reg/rec on it's own fuse. I have Pamcopete's ignition relay on it's own fuse. This lets full battery voltage to the ignition no matter how bad the kill switch.
The horn has a fuse too.
Hope this helps.

[mikebritton]

XSleo, thanks! If I'm looking at this loom right there is only one fuse in the whole system! No wonder the bike died when I was caught in a storm!
I really like the idea of extra fuses to isolate systems that could die and I could still be running.
Do you think it would be easier to build my own loom from scratch, or simply insert fuses into each circuit?
I could use a fuse bar like the hot rodders use.
In your opinion, which fuse is better, blade type or tube type?
What about circuit breakers instead of fuses?
I have all kinds of wiring diagrams for this bike, and the more I study it, the more sense it makes so I'm not afraid.
Are there any components that I absolutely don't need to worry about? Wow, lots of questions... Thanks Mike

[mikebritton]

XSLeo. I went back and read your answer again, and it's starting to make sense. I think this weekend, I will set down and draw a diagram from your instructions.
What if I run my brake light from the on side of the ignition through the brake light switch without a fuse so I will always have a brake light? I did that on the two looms I built, any problems I didn't foresee with that?
I'm really beginning to understand. I don't need the reserve thingy on the bottom of the battery box, and since These bikes are antique in Texas, (more than 25 years old) I'm not sure I need the front brake light switch.
This may turn out to be fun! Thanks, again, Mike

[ShakerNorm]

Mike - let's see -
Probably better to start from scratch - Remember that the wires in your '75 are now 35 years old and have gotten brittle and corroded over time. I was amazed at how bad the wires were on my 79 when I rewired it this spring! Also - check over all the wires that you don't swap out - I found that many of those were toast too - all 3 wires to my alternator stator had melted, and my starter cable was just a corroded and melted mess, too. I'm still wondering why my bike didn't burn down! Some of them are a real pain to change out (especially my alternator wires), but the peace of mind and reliability are worth it!

Blades are better than tubes - tubes are getting hard to find and are open to corrosion much more, not to mention they take up more space.
Circuit breakers might be a good idea - but they do take up more space than either type of fuse (at least the aircraft breakers that I'm familiar with do), although I considered them, myself.

I gather that early bikes only had one or two fuses - and later ones had 4 - after rewiring my 79, I've now got 6 - including one for a 12v outlet, so I can power up other toys... or plug in the battery tender.

While you're at it - check out PamcoPete's alternator mods (a Mopar voltage regulator and bridge rectifier) - REALLY helped my alternator run at it's best. He also devised a simple alternator failure light, too.

[xsleo]

I like the blade style fuses. I have had way to many troubles with the round glass fuses.
I think circuit breakers are a bit pricey.
I stripped my stock loom apart and used what I could and bought new for what I couldn't.
The fuse block I used can be bought from most parts stores for around $10. Advanced Auto has them on the rack with the other electrical stuff.
Stuff you need, Charging system. Stator, rotor, regulator and rectifier.
Ignition, 75 used points, condensers, coils, wires, plugs.
If you are using the starter, the starter, starter relay, and the start button. I would use the safety relay, this saves wear & tear on the starter gears.
Now onto lights, Head light, tail/brake light. The light in your speedo. Turn signals with indicators. Neutral light. Your stock handle bar switches.
There are several stock parts to leave out. The diode, brake lining switch, light checker.
The diode is under the tank, black and silver, size of an aa battery. Brake lining switch is on the rear brake backing plate. The light checker is on the back of the battery box, the part on the bottom is the rectifier.
The stock signal flasher won't be needed either. Mon't work with most aftermarket turn signals.
I think that covers most of your questions.
I might suggest reading through the threads about replacement regulators and recifiers. What you have will work. Just how long or how well is the question.
I have done the mods and am very happy with them.
Any more questions feel free to ask.
I stop by every coulple days.

[mikebritton]

Thanks a bunch,guys. I think I'll go back with all new wire as much as I can.
When I was working for Deere, I was given the job of scrapping parts in the warehouse, no one else wanted to do it!
I was in heaven! I came home with two complete wiring harnesses for the big combines. I have yards of wire, and lots of waterproof connectors.
I guess my obligation is to diagram what color changes I've made to the XS harness. I can put it in the hole for the toolbag.
I have to remember to hook up the ground to the handlebars too.
Thanks, again, Mike

[grizld1]

Hey Mike, saw your thread in General Discussions on what to do about the holes in the headlight shell after you simplify the wiring and remove the OEM instruments, so here's something for you to consider while you're rewiring. Get a small Emgo aftermarket 3-position key switch (off/ignition/ ignition plus lights), cut down the OEM switch housing for a lower profile, mount the Emgo switch in it, and mount the switch and housing on the big center hole of the headlight shell. Works good, looks good.

[ShakerNorm]

Mike's also has replacement connectors for the bikes, too. Just crimp the connectors to your new wire, and insert into the plastic housing - just make sure you get the right wire into the right socket of the right connector....... makes it easy to connect to the original connectors. But waterproof connectors would be ideal!

It's a good idea to keep track of all your wiring changes - make up a wiring diagram if you can. It makes troubleshooting later MUCH easier!

[mikebritton]

Oct 15, 2010 8:59:51 GMT -5 grizld1 said:

Hey Mike, saw your thread in General Discussions on what to do about the holes in the headlight shell after you simplify the wiring and remove the OEM instruments, so here's something for you to consider while you're rewiring. Get a small Emgo aftermarket 3-position key switch (off/ignition/ ignition plus lights), cut down the OEM switch housing for a lower profile, mount the Emgo switch in it, and mount the switch and housing on the big center hole of the headlight shell. Works good, looks good.

Thanks, I stuck the OEM switch in the hole and pondered the idea. I wasn't sure that there would be room in the nacelle for the switch and the bulb too. I found a plug in my hardware stash that fits nicely, but I really like the idea of having the switch in the headlight.
I'm considering a two position switch tho as I think I might want the lights on all the time. Thanks, Mike

[xsleo]

You might want to try to keep the wire colors the same as the stock colors. This might make it easier to work with.
I use a two position switch. Much smaller than stock and can be mounted almost anywhere.

[mikebritton]

Life has the tracker on hold for the remainder of this week.
I did get he bushings in the swing arm tho, and came up with an idea that helps keep then in line. I used a friend's arbor press, and after I got the bushings started I inserted the sleeve so that it was in both bushings as I gently pushed the bushings home.
When I was finished, the sleeve and the bolt both slide back and forth in the bushings like silk.
Played with the stock ignition switch in the headlight nacelle and I'm leaning that way.
I can keep the stock setup and avoid some confusion.
The nice thing about having the scrap tractor looms is that I have a variety of colors to work with, so I can usually get close.
I'm looking at fuse panels, do I just wire tie it to the down tube behind the engine? Should I screw it to the battery box?
And, if I eliminate the light charger, do I just leave that plug dangling? Thanks for all the help, this is the only part of the build I'm a little tentative on. Mike

[mikebritton]

Also, I've come to the realization that this is an excellent exercise in problem solving! I'm bi ginning to understand all the old hand's comments about " think of it like water in a hose".
From the battery, through the ignition switch, through a fuse, to the component switch, to the component, to ground.
Yeah, that's the ticket!!!

[xsleo]

Yep, water through a hose works, I think in circles. the circle starts at the battery and ends at the battery. All along the circle goes the fuses, wires, switches and the things that do the work.

[ShakerNorm]

I've always thought of it going in circles - it has to start at the battery and end at the battery.... but the hydraulic idea works very well, too.

The alternator is your pump to refill the battery, the battery is a pressure storage vessel, a capacitor works like an accumulator, a diode is a one-way check valve.... the analogy goes on and on..... That's how I keep it all straight when I'm working on aircraft... LOL