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Post by rattattat on Mar 29, 2011 0:31:33 GMT -5
Could really use some help. I have a '78 XS650 which I'm trying to basically get back to stock for certification. After it's certified I'm going to bob it. This probably sounds stupid but the problem that I'm having is finding any fuses other than 1 on the right side behind the side cover. I searched everywhere that I could and found nothing else and to me that doesn't seem right. The one fuse that I do have is a 20 A and it blows when I turn the key. Could someone tell me if I should have more fuses and why the 1 blows when I turn the key.
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Post by pamcopete on Mar 29, 2011 6:02:29 GMT -5
rattaltat,
There is only one fuse on that model, and you have found it.
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Post by rattattat on Mar 29, 2011 6:24:31 GMT -5
Thanks Pamcopete, that takes a load off my mind. Any ideas why the fuse keeps blowing when I turn the key. Any ideas what to check, where to start looking.
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Post by dogbunny on Mar 29, 2011 7:04:47 GMT -5
A bad charging system rotor can create a direct short to ground, so try disconnecting the brushes and see if the fuse stops blowing.
After that it can be anything. Systematically isolate sections of the wiring until you find a direct short to ground, then narrow it down
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Post by rattattat on Apr 2, 2011 3:55:14 GMT -5
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Post by dogbunny on Apr 2, 2011 8:11:09 GMT -5
In my previous attempt to help you, I suggested that your rotor might be bad, and to disconnect the brushes to remove it from your system to see if that stops blowing fuses. When you disconnected that white plastic multi-prong connector in pic 3, you did disconnect the brushes, and you did stop blowing fuses. So now check the rotor with a meter: www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgZNQEn0VjAAs for the voltage regulator, which is the component in your first two pictures, they do go bad, and it wouldn't hurt to replace it with a modern regulator. There are threads on cheap solid-state auto parts store regulators in the electrical section of this forum. |
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Post by ShakerNorm on Apr 2, 2011 12:39:30 GMT -5
rattattat:
One thing to remember about electricity - it always goes in a circle (a circuit) - it starts at the - side of your battery, then through the switch and component (the load), then back to the + side of the battery. If there's a break anywhere in it - no electricity will flow at all. A short circuit bypasses either the switch or the load and goes directly back to the battery - If there's a fuse in the system (there should always be one somewhere) that's when it blows.
On the XS - in the stock wiring setup all bets are off if someone's messed with it!) - the black wires are always ground, red is battery HOT wire (always powered), and brown is Switched Power (from the main key switch).
Schematics are always a good thing to have when you're dealing with electricity - try looking around on the net or checking in your manual.
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Post by rattattat on Apr 3, 2011 14:11:11 GMT -5
Thanks Dogbunny for your help recently and I wasn't intentionally trying to diss you by appearing not to take your advice but as I mentioned I really haven't got a clue about electronics. When you described what to do I didn't know what you were referring to. I would really appreciate it if you would describe in detail what "You" would do to find this problem. Assume that I don't know anything like names of parts etc. because "I PROBABLY DON'T" I watched the video link you sent and noticed that the rotor was off on the video and was wondering if that is necessary in order to fest it. I left it on and got a reading of 4.5. Now what?
Thanks for your help.
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Post by dogbunny on Apr 3, 2011 17:47:11 GMT -5
Sorry if I sounded testy.
4.5 ohms is good. You can test with the rotor still on the bike. How did you test the rotor? Do you know what the brushes are? Usually you disconnect the brushes to test the two "rings" on the rotor. Either you pull the four little screws that hold the 2 brushes on their housing, or you just pull the whole housing. Then you have easy access to the rings to make the test. Does that make sense? Is that what you did?
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Post by dogbunny on Apr 3, 2011 18:01:28 GMT -5
 Did you stop blowing fuses when you disconnected this? If so, then you need to replace your voltage regulator, and problem solved. |
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Post by rattattat on Apr 4, 2011 2:18:15 GMT -5
Hey Dogbunny, thanks for the reply and being very clear. When I tested the rotor I removed the housing with the brushes, I think it's called the stator (see I'm trying to learn) and tested the two rings. Now that I removed the stator if that is what it's called, I'm concerned that maybe I messed up the timing because I put a wrench to the nut on the rotor and the "rotor" turned a couple inches so I stopped and turned it back approximately where it was. Will the timing be out now when I put the stator back on?
When I disconnected the connector in the pic the fuse stopped blowing. I also opened up the cover on the regulator and inside it looked brand new and all connections front and back look good, so would you still say that it needs to be replaced? If I need to replace it would you recommend buying a regulator/rectifier single unit. I'm also planning on getting a wire harness from TC Bros. whats your thoughts on that.
Thanks for your help. This is the last thing that I need to correct in order to get the bike certified, and then the fun begins when I get to start customizing the bike.
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Post by dogbunny on Apr 4, 2011 5:33:45 GMT -5
Your rotor is good. You have not screwed up the timing by turning that nut. There is a procedure for testing the stock regulator. In the free on-line manuals the procedure is a little confusing. In the Clymer manual it is pretty easy to understand. If you blow fuses with the reg. connected, and you don't blow them with it disconnected, that's a pretty good sign the reg. is bad. The only other possibility is a pinched wire which would be easy to see. This is the regulator you want to use to replace your bad one: xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=3246Do not buy a reg/rec single unit. I have no experience with the TC Bros harness. To me, it makes more sense to find a good simplified schematic and just run your own wires as you need them, but electricity is pretty easy for me. You might ask again about the harness in a new thread here or on a forum like the Chopper Underground. |
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Post by rattattat on Apr 4, 2011 8:09:07 GMT -5
Thank you for all your help, I'll be taking all your advice and see what happens. I'll let you know. I'm just curious why you wouldnt buy a single unit reg/rec? I would like to clean things up. Thanks again.
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Post by dogbunny on Apr 4, 2011 8:42:18 GMT -5
XS650s with the combined reg/rec are wired a little differently, specifically the rotor brushes are connected differently. The brush wiring can be altered, but with your limited electrical experience I wouldn't.
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Post by rattattat on Apr 4, 2011 14:30:14 GMT -5
Hey dogbunny, I tested the regulator as described in the Clymer manual and all readings according to there specs were on the money except the the 5th test reading which was to probe the black and brown wires and let the central point come up against the top point. Specs indicate that it should read 36-38 ohms and the reading I got was 33.7 ohms. I checked the wires and connections and everything looks good. Would this 1 reading being out so little mean the regulator is shot.
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