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Post by Chuckwagon on May 1, 2011 10:01:30 GMT -5
I have a '77D. I purchased the replacement stock wiring harness from Mike's. I purchased the LED mini guages, which don't have the "distance sensor" and other idiot lights including the brake lining, brake light, and headlight "out" warning lights. I'm leaving the cancelling unit, reserve lighting unit, etc intact. I'm planning on jumping the wires that had led to the lining, brake light and head light "out" bulbs. I'll jump them individually, not all together.
If I do the same for the distance sensor, which is shown as a switch, will that just disable the turn signal cancel feature, or is it the other way around? I'd prefer, if anything, that the signals do not cancel, unless I turn them off.
Last question, are brown wires (not dark brown) generally ground wires?
Hope this makes sense... My eyes hurt from trying to read the miniscule type in my wiring diagram, and my brain hurts from figuring out this puzzle.
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Post by pamcopete on May 1, 2011 11:25:23 GMT -5
chuckwagon,
Just unplug the canceler and toss it in the trash. The turn signals will work fine without it. No need to jumper any wires.
Black wires are grounds.
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 1, 2011 14:41:37 GMT -5
Thanks, Pete. Just to make sure I'm clear, you are saying it is ok to just blank end/insulate any and all of the mentioned warning lights (brake shoe, brake light, head light) as well as the distance sensor? Ok to just disconnect the canceller and blank that plug?
New question about turn signals... I only have one turn signal indicator in my gage. The original dash has two. do I connect the negative wires from the front signals to the single indicator in my gage, then from that indicator light to ground? I'm thinking it should work this way so I have isolation of positive current between the left and right signals.
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Post by pamcopete on May 1, 2011 17:36:23 GMT -5
chuckwagon, I think you are making this more difficult than it is. Just leave the stuff you aren't going to use disconnected. No need to "blank" them off or any formality like that. Just leave them hanging in the breeze. Like the canceler. Just unplug it. Leave the socket dangling in the breeze. Should you change your mind later, you can just plug all this stuff back in. Here is a wiring diagram for the turn signals showing the two methods of indicators. Single and double lamps. Take your pick. Ride. Enjoy. Life is simple.  |
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Post by ShakerNorm on May 1, 2011 18:19:06 GMT -5
Brown wires on the XS are always switched 12v power - turned on and off by the key switch.
You don't really have to isolate the L & R turn signal wires at the indicator light since only one side can operate at a time, anyway.
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 1, 2011 20:43:17 GMT -5
Thanks... yes, simple is good, but my world is complicated right now, and somewhat by design... at least I can't blame it on anyone else  but it tends to influence my thinking. My brain is tired, but I do think I remember that the turn signal positive connections have a double connector, so hooking up the single indicator on the gage shouldn't be difficult. I guess I was thinking (and still thinking that based ont the diagram) that hooking up the single indicator that way would create a parallel circuit and light both l/r signals. I'll trust you though. Well, somehow I fried the left handlebar switch (hi/low), so looks like I'm shelling out more $. Anyone know if the repro switches that Mikes sells are good quality? An ebay switch seems like a long shot when it comes to being corrosion free and reliable. |
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Post by preston on May 1, 2011 21:32:01 GMT -5
we got a right side control from mikesxs, starter button /kill switch,,
looks great, new wires were correct colors.
all is good .
Preston
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Post by ShakerNorm on May 2, 2011 0:05:28 GMT -5
Hmmmm - you may be right - I wonder if there should be diodes in the wires to the single indicator light, and a ground from the bulb to prevent that.....
I got a new r/h bar switch setup from them and it looks and works perfect..... Yeah - even the wires are the right colors.
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Post by pamcopete on May 2, 2011 7:15:21 GMT -5
The turn signal wiring diagram is correct. There are no diodes or Microprocessors needed. The indicator bulb is only a 3 Watt bulb. The turn signal bulbs are 27 watts each, so the resistance of the turn signal bulbs is very low compared to the indicator bulb and as a results the turn signal bulbs are very low resistance to ground that completes the circuit for the indicator bulbs from the working turn signal, through the indicator bulb and to ground through the filaments of the non working turn signal bulbs. The indicator bulb limits the current in this series circuit to about 1/4 Amp, which is not enough to turn the turn signal bulbs on.
Repeat....YOU DO NOT NEED DIODES, MICROPROCESSORS OR A CONNECTION TO THE INTERNET FOR THE TURN SIGNALS TO WORK AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM.
Please, gentlemen....life is way simpler than you think.
Ride. Enjoy. Life is simple, and turn signals are the simplest of all the circuits on the XS650, so just relax and stop overthinking this whole deal.
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 2, 2011 7:16:35 GMT -5
What do diodes do? I've never worked with them.
My idea to prevent a parallel circuit was to wire the single indicator in series with the ground wires from the front turn signals, but that might create the same problem? I don't know. I guess I'll wire it as the diagram shows... it isn't too hard to do, as the wire harness connections are already there. If it doesn't work, I'll try again with the grounds.
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Post by pamcopete on May 2, 2011 7:19:53 GMT -5
chuckwagon,
Please, please read my above reply that I put there while you were again trying to make things complicated.
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 2, 2011 9:06:53 GMT -5
Thanks for your help, Pete. Makes sense... current follows the path of least resistance, which is the LED indicator in my gage. Aparently, I don't adhere to the same rule and don't follow the path of least resistance! I was inadvertently making things complicated or "overthinking" in the process of gaining understanding how it works... that's a bad habit I have. Sorry if we annoyed you. I do appreciate the explanation. Peace  |
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Post by pamcopete on May 2, 2011 12:25:43 GMT -5
chuckwagon,
Well, now you are making things complicated again! If you are using an LED for a single indicator setup, then it will only work for the left or the right turn signal because an LED is polarity sensitive. You will have to use the two indicator wiring if you are going to use LEDs.
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 2, 2011 12:46:07 GMT -5
Oops... I mentioned LED gages in first post...more clarification, these are the mini gages that Mikes sells that have all LED back lighting and indicators. So what if I connect both positive leads from turn signals to the same positive wire to the LED, then run the ground wire from LED to ground? Sort of a moot point until I can find a replacement left-hand switch. Mikes is out of stock on those...  |
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Post by pamcopete on May 2, 2011 16:12:39 GMT -5
chuckwagon, Well, there is a certain irony in what I am about to say. You can do that if you use a diode from each turn signal wire to the LED. Wire it with the arrow from the diodes pointing towards the LED. I think I'm going to go and pour myself a drink and let someone else answer your next querstion...  |
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but it tends to influence my thinking.
