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Post by Chuckwagon on May 26, 2011 9:39:38 GMT -5
Got it - thanks for the clarification. I think I do remember reading that in the carb guide. I think I'm getting information overload.
BTW, the K&Ns I'm using are cylindrical, not ovals or cones. I'll see how they work, hopefully sometime soon.
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Post by xsleo on May 27, 2011 15:00:36 GMT -5
On my Harley the carb kit I used provided a drill bit to drill the air mix screw plug and drill the slide. It is a 7/64 bit. This didn't really make the hole bigger but evened it out from end to end and removed any burrs around the hole. It left part of the anodizing in the hole of the slide. The maker of the kit has been doing carbs forever and he has found this size hole is the size to use. The kit also suppied a new slide spring. Not as strond as stock and stronger than most performance springs. Using to weak a spring and or to large a hole and the slide is constantly searching for the right position.
I think this applies to our carbs also. They are both CV carb. I think if some one were to experiment with the hole size and spring weight, they might find a good size set up that could help others. I also think It should be some one with a few years more experience than I have. One of the carb tuning guru's maybe.
I know it made a huge difference on the Harley.
Leo
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Post by 5twins on May 27, 2011 16:44:48 GMT -5
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Post by ShakerNorm on May 27, 2011 18:42:20 GMT -5
Hmmmm - I wonder if that #38 drill will help mine..... I'll have to bring one home from work this weekend and try it. IF it ever stops raining......
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 27, 2011 20:21:38 GMT -5
Checked my notes... indeed, Magical Mystery Mike (is that what MMM stands for? I just know him as that helpful Mike guy in California that runs a website, but only takes phone orders) recommended a 7/64" (f%%K, I hate SAE) bit... he did mention a metric equivalent, but I can never find any metric bits at any of the stores around here, so I didn't write it down.
There were a sh*tload of shavings after drilling the slide in my '77D's carbs... I was a little surprised by that. I don't have a drill press, but took my time and did the best I could with my hand drill to get it straight.
Anyway, there's so much going on with mine right now, there's no way I'll know a difference from stock... I have no baseline to go by and too many variables.
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Post by preston on May 28, 2011 6:56:44 GMT -5
CW;
I think you are crazy,,
but i enjoy reading about your adventures !
... and send us a photo of the new mounted taillight, when you do that.
Preston
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Post by pamcopete on May 28, 2011 7:38:24 GMT -5
Here is a procedure to install 1 1/2" Commando mufflers to the inner pipe of the stock double wall headers. Here are the materials you will need. All together cost about $10.  That object on the left is a brass, chrome plated, 1 1/2" sink drain pipe. I have already cut a section out of it and split it to be used to cover one of the adapters. Here is a picture of the adapters connected:  Here is what they will look like with the piece of chrome drain pipe:  Here are the adapters and the chrome cover installed in the muffler:  And here is the finished installation. Notice how the chrome drain pipe cover hides the adapter:  Start by fitting the first adapter onto the inner pipe of the header. You will have to file the inside of the small end of the adapter and, as much as possible, the outside of the inner pipe. I was able to use the factory mounting bolt for the stock double walled headers and the factory chrome plated rear mounting bracket by extending the square rod with the 4 threaded holes out the front of the bracket on the muffler as 5twins describes above.  I also had a set of Dunstal replica mufflers from EMGO before the Commandos, and I agree the Commandos sound better and they certainly work better with Mikes Performance Carbs. Along with the PAMCO ignition and the Ultimate coil, this bike really performs. |
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 28, 2011 7:57:22 GMT -5
Preston, I'm not crazy... it is everyone else that is crazy.
Interesting method for the double wall pipes. I have a rusty set in the basement. Because they aren't salvagable for my project, I used the XS Performance headers. I will probably try selling them... someone building a rat/chopper that wants wrapped pipes could use them.
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Post by tomterrific on May 28, 2011 8:46:21 GMT -5
CW,
If you want to make a set of custom pipes you can use the sawn off ends of the stock pipes where they fit in the head. This makes a hard part of the job of custom pipes a cinch. Dont throw the pipes away without sawning off those stubs leaving enough pipe to work with.
Wouldn't a nice simple siamised high pipe look good on a 60's heavy trail bike replica XS? Something like the Triumph Steve McQueen rode in the ISDT. Boy oh boy, that would be the custom XS for me.
Tom Graham
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Post by Chuckwagon on May 28, 2011 9:36:06 GMT -5
Funny you should mention... I wanted to build something similar to start with... basically a street scrambler, not a true off road bike with long travel suspension, but a street bike with the look of a dessert sled. Kind of like Honda tried with their CL350, 360 and 450. What makes a scrambler a scrambler in my mind? High pipes, stubby fenders and MX-ish bars. I'm building the current XS for my wife, and she wasn't having any of the high pipes.
"High pipes? No way, I'll burn myself!"
"Yes, well maybe. Not if you are careful."
"short fenders? I'll get horsesh#t all over me if I hit one of those 'gifts' left on the road by the Amish buggies."
"Yes, well maybe. but not if you watch where you're going."
And so it goes... I want her to ride and enjoy, so I'm building it to her requests. Stock fenders, low & quiet pipes.
Maybe the next time, when I'm doing to build one for myself.
Good tip for the exhaust flanges. I hadn't thought about that. I almost put them in the pile to take to the scrap yard, but something told me I should just step over them and wait.
So what is a good length to leave on the flanges if I cut the pipes? I have no such abilities with metal to make my own pipes... that would be an "outsourced" project.
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Post by xsleo on May 29, 2011 19:36:55 GMT -5
I cut the old ones of as close to the first bend as I can get and still have straight pipe.
By the time you get the outer pipe off and the cuts straighten up you end up with parts about 3 inches overall length. I'll leave them this long when I build my new headers. This will act as torque cones, anti-reversion cones whatever you want to call them.
I also cut the outer pipe off around where the vent holes are, This left a 1/2 wide strip around the inner pipe. I'll use this to weld the pipe too.
I was reading that the part that goes into the pipe need to be around 1.5 inches long. So you could take off all of the outer pipe and cut it the inner to about 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inches long.
I used a cut off wheel in my 4 inch angle grinder. You could use a Hacksaw. When cutting the outer pipe be careful to not cut the inner pipe. Not hard to do.
Leo
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