Post by mistermoe on Jul 18, 2011 23:11:04 GMT -5
I am working on my 81 kick-only SH, and tackling a couple of projects at once.
I have installed a banshee rotor ($55), stator from a Ninja6 ($40) and adapter plate and new reg/rec from Hugh's Handbuilt. That wiring is pretty straightforward. Three leads from the magneto to the reg/rec, and two leads from the reg/rec - one to the positive terminal of the battery and one to the frame ground at the battery.
I installed a PAMCO ignition with supplemental advance parts (thanks to 10ecjed). That wiring is simple - red lead to the same coil terminal as the red/white wire, green lead the other coil terminal and black to the frame ground near the coil.
After I dropped those parts on, I started looking at my wiring harness and what I needed to do to tie those projects in.... and I just couldnt help myself. I had jumpered the RLU, removed the starter circuit, bypassed the safety relay... and I felt it was time to clean house.
I pulled the whole harness and stretched it out on my dinner table. I have to say, it was REALLY helpful to do this. I can read a wiring diagram, but it hurts my head when I stare at it too long, like an M. C. Escher print. It's a lot easier to actually follow the circuits by hand.
Here's my plan for a chopped harness:
I have the reg/rec wired to the positive terminal at the battery. That feeds the ignition switch through a 20amp inline fuse. [Any sense in having a fuse between the reg/rec and the battery in case the reg/rec goes wacky and starts dumping voltage on the battery?]
The blue circuit from the switch powers the tail and license plate light, and the headlight through an on/off switch. The taillight and plate light are always on when the ignition switch is on.
The switched power return (brown) I have split to two circuits - one brown through a 10 amp inline fuse for lights (dash lights and turns) and one red/white through a 10 amp inline fuse for the coil (a Dyna).
Pete, from your other postings, it seems like I should be running that red/white circuit to the coil through a 7.5 amp fuse instead, is that correct? I have taken the kill switch out of the loop for now; I may put it back in, but I wanted to simplify for the time being. So, at least the coil is getting whatever voltage is running through the ignition switch. I could run a line right from the battery to the coil, through a relay triggered by the ignition switch, but I if my plan seems basically sound, I am going to save that for another day.
So, am I missing anything? Anything seem backwards or does this make sense?
I'd rather get a second opinion before I drop the harness on hook up the battery...
Please save me from posting in the Stupid Trick of the Week section, with a post like "How to fry a stator, brand new regulator/rectifier and a Pamco ignition in one easy step!"
Thanks,
Mistermoe
I have installed a banshee rotor ($55), stator from a Ninja6 ($40) and adapter plate and new reg/rec from Hugh's Handbuilt. That wiring is pretty straightforward. Three leads from the magneto to the reg/rec, and two leads from the reg/rec - one to the positive terminal of the battery and one to the frame ground at the battery.
I installed a PAMCO ignition with supplemental advance parts (thanks to 10ecjed). That wiring is simple - red lead to the same coil terminal as the red/white wire, green lead the other coil terminal and black to the frame ground near the coil.
After I dropped those parts on, I started looking at my wiring harness and what I needed to do to tie those projects in.... and I just couldnt help myself. I had jumpered the RLU, removed the starter circuit, bypassed the safety relay... and I felt it was time to clean house.
I pulled the whole harness and stretched it out on my dinner table. I have to say, it was REALLY helpful to do this. I can read a wiring diagram, but it hurts my head when I stare at it too long, like an M. C. Escher print. It's a lot easier to actually follow the circuits by hand.
Here's my plan for a chopped harness:
I have the reg/rec wired to the positive terminal at the battery. That feeds the ignition switch through a 20amp inline fuse. [Any sense in having a fuse between the reg/rec and the battery in case the reg/rec goes wacky and starts dumping voltage on the battery?]
The blue circuit from the switch powers the tail and license plate light, and the headlight through an on/off switch. The taillight and plate light are always on when the ignition switch is on.
The switched power return (brown) I have split to two circuits - one brown through a 10 amp inline fuse for lights (dash lights and turns) and one red/white through a 10 amp inline fuse for the coil (a Dyna).
Pete, from your other postings, it seems like I should be running that red/white circuit to the coil through a 7.5 amp fuse instead, is that correct? I have taken the kill switch out of the loop for now; I may put it back in, but I wanted to simplify for the time being. So, at least the coil is getting whatever voltage is running through the ignition switch. I could run a line right from the battery to the coil, through a relay triggered by the ignition switch, but I if my plan seems basically sound, I am going to save that for another day.
So, am I missing anything? Anything seem backwards or does this make sense?
I'd rather get a second opinion before I drop the harness on hook up the battery...
Please save me from posting in the Stupid Trick of the Week section, with a post like "How to fry a stator, brand new regulator/rectifier and a Pamco ignition in one easy step!"
Thanks,
Mistermoe
