Hello guys and gals. Have been doing lots of reading and have not come up with a proper solution to my problem. I see there are some wizards here and could possibly help a fellow biker out. I'm building a new custom bike and spotted some Great looking third brake lights that I want to use. They are from a Saturn Sky/Pontiac solstice. Third brake lights! One hot one ground, I added a 180ohm resistor which makes for a nice transition from run to brake intensity. I'm having a problem getting these to work as a turn when the brakes are applied. the turn is overridden by the brake signal on the 5wire setup from the bike-brake,run,right,left,ground. Thought a trailer converter might work and tried that! same thing with the LED but with regular 1157's seems to work. I was thinking this would be an easy setup but like I said I have been doing a lot of reading and looking over schematics of different setups. None however deal with a single wire LED light such as I have. Thanks in advance for any help and I will try and draw something up as to what I have, with a big space between the light and my standard 5wire setup. Thanks again, Judgeroy in Michigan
This is the basis of what judgeroy is talking about. The resistor reduces the voltage to the bulb for tail light purposes. When you apply either brake the bulb gets full voltage and brightens. An even better way is to use diodes. With a resistor, you have to swap them out until you get the desired brightness [dimness] because the voltage drop will vary with current draw. If you change the LED you will likely have to adjust the resistor to match. Silicon diodes have a constant voltage drop regardless of current draw of 0.7 volts. For example, a good choice would be 6 silicon diodes wired in series for a drop of 4.2 volts. (The picture is a little misleading. At the LED bulb, the red and blue wire are the same wire, I.E. it is a two-wire LED bulb.)
So, anyways, that's how you make a two-wire LED work as a brake/tail light. However, I don't know the first thing about blinkers and LEDs. If it's possible to make a two-wire LED work as a brake/run/turn signal, maybe someone else can take it from here.
Hey Guys, thanks for the posts, I've been working on it and have found there is no easy way!lol Anyway, it is a third brake light from an auto/ 12v.I think 14 LED's in the array. There is two wires, one ground and the positive. I am installing two, one on each side between the fender and saddlebag. I'm running this electronic control module from Ultima which has an output for right turn,left turn, brake and running/tail. It has the flash twice then brake setup included. I assumed that the turn wires from module were not brake lights also! But when hooked up they do work as brake lights UNTIL you activate a turn signal!! Then the opposite light form the blinker, dimms back to running light, I lose all brake lights, except that I have a tourpak with tail/brake, three wire LED. So for now, until I figure out how to fix this single stage LED to work as run,brake,turn. I'm going to settle for what is working. I'm sure this can be done with some circuitry and not some big relays, might have to use an IC of some sort. I lost touch with a fellow worker that was really into this type of stuff and hope to touch base with him soon,lol I'm sure it will pass state inspection as is, and I'm ready to ride it. Just need to doctor up the kick stand and fill with fluids. I know this is the XS650 boards. I've been racing and riding since 1968 and been around the block myself. When and if I get the right info. the third brake light business will pick up. There are some nice ones out there but pricey new. These ones I've got sticker at $85 GM dealer. I'll post some pics. Thanks, Judge
what kind of flasher are you running with? will it flash the light by it self? in theory if you have the resistor/s and a trailer converter it should work it might be your flasher thats throwing you off! your flasher might be load sensitive and won't work, besides that there are micro relays you don't need to use those big automotive type your not running a big load
I'm using two single "element" LED beehive marker lights. This circuit will only work with LED bulbs.
It uses several diodes in series to dim the lights for the tail function, you can substitute your resistors for these.
The IC is an XOR meaning that it will only make the bulb brighter if it gets a signal from either the turn signal OR the brake switch. If it gets a signal from both at the same time then it goes back to dim. That way it will still blink when the brake is applied.
I bought a whole tube of these ICs and only used the one. If anybody wants one, it's yours for the price of shipping.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5