|
|
Post by billychop on Aug 6, 2011 12:16:08 GMT -5
I went on a camping trip last weekend, about a 70 mile trip one-way. When we get to the camp site I notice that when I tried to start my bike to park it the starter just did the clickty clickty thing. So I kicked it and parked it. The next morning I had the same results, kicked it again and was on my way. It seemed to run right for the majority of the way home. Close to home, when I was off the gas it seemed to be reving a little and didn't want to idle. i get it home and realize that my battery is very weak. Surely a weak battery wouldn't have gotten me 70 miles with no charge. I have a new rotor and a new battery, hoping it's not the stator. Anybody have a guess?
|
|
|
|
Post by ShakerNorm on Aug 6, 2011 15:34:32 GMT -5
Have you checked the voltage that the alternator is putting out? It should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. Any less and it can't charge the battery, any more and it boils your battery and ruins it.
If you have an early (up to 79) the OEM VR is mechanical and can be adjusted. It's a pain in the A**, but it can be done.
Better option is to convert to an electronic VR (several around - including a Chrysler one (probably the cheapest), and a plug-and play from Mike's.
Another thing to look for is power draw. These alternators were weak to start with, and any extra draw on the electrical system is a bad thing. 14.5 amps of lights - on a 15 amp alternator doesn't leave much left over to run the ignition and recharge the battery.
I converted all my lights to LED to minimize power draw (Good thing), then thought I had enough extra power to run a 65watt halogen headlight.... (Stupid thing!). The extra draw from the more powerful headlight is enough to draw my battery down in a couple miles to the point where my flashers won't work at all. Luckily, the headlight is an H4 - so I finally found a 45 watt bulb that I'll be putting in ASAP. Next step will be an HID bulb that only uses 30 watts and puts out more light than the 65 watt.
|
|
|
|
Post by billychop on Aug 6, 2011 16:39:03 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply Norm. I have a hunch what my problem is. I've done other long trips before without issue, but I've never tried a long one with my headlight on all day. I usually just leave it off during the day, especially if I'm with a group. I have a feeling the 6ah battery I bought might be the culprit. With it off, the headlight and taillight look really dim. But with it running both are much brighter. I think the long trip with the headlight on was more than it could handle. I'm gonna go rip around for awhile and check the charge when I get back. Thanks again
|
|
|
|
Post by ShakerNorm on Aug 6, 2011 17:45:16 GMT -5
At highway speeds, and not using turn signals very much, the alternator should be able to keep your battery charged, even with the headlight on - at least if it's a stock-wattage (40 watt) headlight. Anything stronger and you'd probably have the same problem. That's why I'm switching back to a 45 watt bulb - at least until I get the HID rigged up.
If you're interested, there's also LED headlights that use even less power - but I'm not sure how well they work (although they can't be any worse than the stock 40 watt bulb!), and they could get expensive. If you have H4 type headlight, I did find LED H4's on ebay for just over $5 (and free shipping) - although I can't tell you just how good they are, I will tell you when I get mine!
|
|
|
|
Post by billychop on Aug 9, 2011 14:15:34 GMT -5
I have another question for you Norm while we're at it. What would cause my bike to ACT like it has a dead battery? In other words, my lights are dim and my starter clicks but my charger says the battery is good to go. Will a bad switch do this? I'm set up with a car type ignition btw, nothing on the bars, just turn the key.
|
|
|
|
Post by ShakerNorm on Aug 9, 2011 19:42:28 GMT -5
Possibly a worn out battery.... They have a phenomenon called "Surface Charge" that will give you the illusion of a battery with 12 volts - but as soon as you put a load to it, it craps out on you.
If you've ever had a flashlight that turns on nice and bright, then dims out really quickly - that's exactly what Surface Charge is. It happens with almost all batteries as the chemicals react together internally.
The best way to check it would be to take it to an automotive store or shop (just about every one will be able to do this) and have them Load Test it. That will tell you for sure if it's good or worn out.
|
|
|
|
Post by billychop on Aug 17, 2011 10:12:55 GMT -5
OK, so it's official, my battery is dead. Now, my question is: if the battery is getting 14-14.5 at ruffly 2500 rpm where should I look next? Seems the battery is getting what it needs to get a charge but for whatever reason it's not holding a charge. It's a glass mat battery from Mikes and it's only about a year and a half old.
|
|
|
|
Post by tomterrific on Aug 17, 2011 11:04:17 GMT -5
" It's a glass mat battery from Mikes ..."
Do you really need this spelled out?
|
|
|
|
Post by billychop on Aug 17, 2011 16:05:31 GMT -5
Mr. Terrific, your answer was super helpful. Many thanks for typing all that up for me. I'm going to assume that what you are saying is that it's because I bought the battery from Mikes? Do you know somebody that has had this same problem with a gm battery from Mikes?
|
|
|
|
Post by pamcopete on Aug 17, 2011 18:09:14 GMT -5
tomterrific,
I have one of MikesXS batteries in three of my bikes. The XS650 and the two CB750's. All three bikes have an electronic voltage regulator. The battery in the XS650 has been there for 3 years and I have not had any problems with it. I do take care of my charging system, however.
I also have a CB450 with a PM alternator that can barely keep up with the load and has a tendancy to undercharge the battery for that reason, so I would not install a sealed battery, or any expensive battery in that bike.
I would not install a sealed battery in any bike that has a crude mechanical regulator because they have a tendency to overcharge at higher RPM's. The sealed batteries from MikesXS are just as good as any sealed battery. They are all probably made in the same factory, MikesXS doesn't actually manufacture the battery, they buy them from a battery company, the same as any other distributor.
I also will not comment one way or the other on any product that I have not personally installed in my bike and used.
|
|
|
|
Post by billychop on Aug 17, 2011 18:40:17 GMT -5
Dog, I think you should leave these answers to Pete and Norm. You don't have to have a bike mounted volt gauge on your bike to know what your electrical system is putting out. It's called a multimeter. Making statements like "batteries fail" doesn't help me or anybody else. Pete, thanks for the info. My bike has a reg/rec combo but I AM guilty of not maintaining my battery like should. It's either my fault for not maintaining the battery or possibly a bad stator, I just haven't had time to check it all. My wiring isn't stock and it's a little tough to get to all that stuff. Thanks Norm and Pete, you guys are always helpful.
|
|
|
|
Post by tonyc2me on Aug 17, 2011 19:46:11 GMT -5
Pete I can comment I did run one of Mikes Glass Mat's. It did not last a year but to Mike's credit they replaced it no questions asked. If I remember right there was a problem with these batteries at first. I have not had a problem with its replacement.
|
|
|
|
Post by tomterrific on Aug 17, 2011 21:43:39 GMT -5
Billy,
There have been many failures credited to the batch of bad batteries from mikesxs. The damage is done. Mikesxs kept sending out bad battery after bad battery. A new friend and long time XS650 owner had two, both the original and the replacement fail. The failure of a new battery is such that folks over look it as a problem so my fiends bike was down for over a season. So, I'm sorry if I was glib but the failure of many mikesxs batteries is well known. If you want to see absolute descriptions of problems and how to fix them and why they occured I suggest you search my name as virtually every post I've made has been a short mechanical article.
Less glib: Mikesxs has had a problem with their batteries in the past. I'm not sure if the new ones are good enough or not so perhaps you should buy replacements local.
Simple field test of charging system:
Idle engine.
Turn on high beam and hit the brake.
Shine light at something so you see the reflection.
By blipping the throttle, the light should get noticably brighter. No change in brightness means the charging system isn't working. Kill headlight and head for home!
Tom Graham
|
|
|
|
Post by billychop on Aug 18, 2011 8:43:55 GMT -5
Tom, now thats an answer! Not sure how I missed all that info on agm's from Mikes. I knew about the intakes he was selling because I bought a set but never heard about the batteries. I've done the whole, turn on the lights and see if they get brighter test and they do get brighter. What I think I'm going to do is pick up a new battery AND a stator off ebay (maybe even dig up a reg/rec) that way I'll have peace of mind since the rotor is new. Thanks guys
|
|
|
|
Post by pamcopete on Aug 18, 2011 10:31:11 GMT -5
Billy, There have been many failures credited to the batch of bad batteries from mikesxs. The damage is done. Mikesxs kept sending out bad battery after bad battery. A new friend and long time XS650 owner had two, both the original and the replacement fail. The failure of a new battery is such that folks over look it as a problem so my fiends bike was down for over a season. So, I'm sorry if I was glib but the failure of many mikesxs batteries is well known. Tom Graham When did this happen, Tom? I seem to recall it was about 4 years ago. Do you think that MikesXS still has problems with their AGM batteries? Do you have one in your bike? Can you give us a link to a more recent issue with MikesXS AGM batteries? |
|
