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Post by highsidednb on Nov 10, 2011 18:44:04 GMT -5
1978 SE, all original wiring (I think) with exception of changes made because of PAMCO.
A few weeks ago the starter button wasn't kicking over the starter and so I tried kicking the bike to life and it worked. What I also noticed was that the headlight wasn't working. The bike got me home from work. Signals worked, tail light worked. Headlamp filaments are intact and it's not blown out.
I took a look at all the visible wiring I could and I thought I found the problem. There are several connectors between the seat and the rear fender. I saw that one of the connectors was loose (a yellow one.) I pushed it together and then the bike started w/pushing the starter and the headlamp worked! Aha!
Well, here we are today and the same thing happened. No headlight, no starter button. I looked at the same cluster of connectors and saw nothing wrong. I checked the fuses. I checked the other visible connectors I could find. All seemed connected and intact. So, no correllation with the above.
Is there some kind of relay that both the headlamp and starter button are on? Am I screwed and doomed to replace the entire wiring harness? Could it be the Kill/Light:On Off/Starter switches? It doesn't seem like it's a current issue as the bike runs and the other lamps work.
Any ideas?
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Post by madmax on Nov 12, 2011 12:39:05 GMT -5
What condition is your battery in? make sure it's fully charged before you go any further.
Max
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Post by highsidednb on Nov 13, 2011 2:44:23 GMT -5
Battery is charged. Going to take apart the kill switch/starter button assembly on the right handlebar, see if there are any wiring issues in there first.
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Post by grizld1 on Nov 15, 2011 22:15:44 GMT -5
The safety relay cuts power to the starter solenoid trigger as soon as it senses alternator output to prevent damage from accidental starter button pushes, and on your E-model it also cuts power to the headlight when the solenoid trigger is closed and restores the headlight when the trigger is open. On your bike the SR is the gadget with two metal domes (under the right side frame cover, IIRC); one dome houses the relay for the starter and the other houses the relay for the headlight. If in doubt consult the wiring diagram in your manual and confirm identification of the part by wire count and color. Clean the connector, and if that doesn't help, come on back and I'll tell you how to bypass.
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Post by highsidednb on Dec 7, 2011 16:34:35 GMT -5
Ok, so this is what I've done since grizld1's post:
Looked at two metal domes, they looked fine (will post pictures tonight) although the paper wrapping on the coil on one of them was brown and old. I'm sure these are original ex=quipment
Checked connections going from these safety relays and they looked ok, no gnarly corrosion.
CHecked the handlebar switch and there was some corrosion and tried to clean it. The starter button works fine.
Headlight worked once or twice but now doesn't work.
Now the headlight light on the dash is on almost all the time.
Bike still runs fine. Just can't ride at night lol
So, I would love to bypass the headlight crap and set up a circuit independent for a better headlight. How to do this? COuld I just run a wire from the battery with a fuse and relay?
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Post by tonyc2me on Dec 7, 2011 19:37:03 GMT -5
Use a double pole double throw 20 amp toggle switch.
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Post by xsleo on Dec 10, 2011 8:38:43 GMT -5
On the 78 it has a fuse block to hold the fuses. It was ok when new, but after 30+ years it ain't so good. The clips that hold the fuses get weak and don't carry current as well as they should. If your bike still has the stock fuse block that might be the trouble.
Replace the fuse block with inline fuse holders. Use fuse holders that use modern blade type fuses, much better than the round glass fuses.
Leo
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Post by getinhot on Sept 1, 2014 19:14:15 GMT -5
Hi Leo I'm a newbie and have same problems posted above. My frame manu is 4/80 but the engine is an '82. I not having luck with searches but have picked up great info on numerous posts. I powered up both relays, got a distinct click and thought they passed the test. I did wrap two bare wires in the headlight basket, one was outside the grommet, go figure. I noticed there is no charging when the headlight is off. The battery is new and I have been keeping it topped off after my rides around the block (highly illegal with the 2004 (Alabama) tag). I like the double pole double throw 20 amp toggle switch idea! The two metal domes have 6 wires coming to the plug. Would you please give your knowledge how to wire this switch or a direction to a post already done? Thanks. Two friends gave up on this bike after ten years and gave it to me, how lucky. The motor went to a shop and was taken out to 10 over on the rings. I thought I was ready for the Gatorade bottle manometer sync but nobody told me it could not only suck the water from left bank but suck the bottle flat too. I guess the left cylinder rings aren't quite seated yet. I've really enjoyed the last 4 weeks working on this bike and researching how to bring it back to life. Cleaning the dirt-dobber's nests and vise-gripping old screws out have been the hardest jobs. Somebody really gorilla-ed them in there.  Attachments:
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