As with most XS's, for every action, there is a equal and opposite reaction.. Today, in my quest to reduce some of the current draw on my battery, I purchased a new Led Brake/Tail Light bulb,, "direct replacement for 1157" ... cost 16 bucks. ( my bike is 1975 XS ) ( streetglow.com part # SGL1157WH ) OK, so now my brake dash lamp,, the little red "Stop Lamp",, is now blinking,, fast but regular ( like the blinkers but not)... When applying the brakes, the dash light comes on, and is steady red, as it ought to be. My new brake light and tail light works, and I am sure there is less draw of current,, but who would think the technology in 1975 would tell the dash light to blink... If I put the old 1157 back in, of course the blinking goes away. * Choices: Put the old bulb back in. Take out the blinking stop lamp bulb ? You may have a better solution ?? or other sound advice ? Thanks to all ... Blessings to you Preston
it looks like it needs a bit of resistance on the brake light, you can try to put a ceramic resistor parallel to brake light as for how big(OHMS) I'm going to check mine in the morning and try to give you a #, i have a bin with some resistors. it's flashing because it thinks the bulb is burnt out
Thanks Speez; then, if i put the resistor in line, (which i assume draws a little current ) is it not just as beneficial, to stick the original bulb back in ? Right now, i have some black tape, over the red flashing light. (as it drives you crazy ) Preston
OK! got the 411! the first resistor i grabbed and it stoped the flashing light 1K so i didn't bother to check others and it was a 1/4W it doesn't need a ceramic resistor,i put those on led turn signals so they flash normally, but you don't need that as you are putting a small wattage to fool the bulb checker so you can use a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor 1K, BUT! i don,t have led tail light so test everything, i just removed the plug from under my seat light started to flash put resistor on to ground and puff! it stoped to flash
p.s. you will bypassing your bulb checker,but with a led brake light you should be safe,just check it once in awhile
i just thought of something, if you are going to put resistor try this test , jam brake leaver so it stays on and then put in parallel the resistor and see if the brake light dimes if so you might need a hi'r resistance
Using an led bulb helps lower the current draw. To put a resister in to increase the current draw to get the brake warning light to not flash is kinda self defeating. Just remove the light checker. That's what senses the blown bulb and lights the red dash light. Or just put the regular bulb back in. I added LED's to the tail/brake light and turnsignals. I also rewired the bike to get rid of all the bull, the only thing I kept was the safety relay, that protects the starter gears. I don't need a light to tell me the brake light is out or if the rear brake pads need changing. Leo
75 XS650B with 79 forks and dual disc, braided lines, disc brake on back, Pamco ignition, Pamcopete's reg/rec mods, kill switch relay, home made harness, all LED turn, brake and tail lights, tapered head bearings, bronze bushes in swing arm, soon to get shock and fork upgrades
XS thanks,, forget my question on the other post. I did remove my "rear brake shoe indicator light" ( how innovating ). I hack-sawed the tab off the backing plate and took a while to file that nub down... ... but yes, I will keep my shocks, thanks. Preston
by adding the resistor to "only" to the brake side of the bulb your running light benefits on saving current as that side of bulb doesn't see the resistor ..think at what % the brake light stays on? compare that to % of the running light?
for 1157 brake light, the two contacts connect to 2 positive terminals, the metal cap connect to - negative tearminal. one positive is for bright lighting as tail light signals, one positve is for weak lighting as stop light, did you install in a correct way?
yes dingjuled and welcome aboard... it (the LED light) works and perform, perfect, as it should. it is just so low of resistance, the dash light, does not sense the bulb in in there. all is good. Preston
have you ever taken the light bulbs apart from your bike? And switch on 12VDC current, and see whether it is still blinking, if so, I am sure that your LED bulbs doesn't have a resistor, I work for a car LED light factory,¡¡a resistor can protect your LED working without over current.
Post by ShakerNorm on May 19, 2012 20:44:26 GMT -5
I'm with Leo - At first, I just pulled the bulb in the dash - and when I rewired the bike, I removed the light checker totally. Just check your lights before you ride - even LED's don't like all the vibration from this bike..... I've had a few of them get shaken apart.
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r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
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kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5