|
Post by metalfingers on Jul 19, 2012 12:59:20 GMT -5
Maybe a dumb question, but I just picked up and 82 heritage special with electrical problems. PO said he replaced one of the two coils with one from a junkyard, they look the same too me, but he said it was for another bike. Anyway, didnt they go to a dual output coil in 1980? Will 2 coils work fine on the electrical system of an '82?
|
|
|
Post by grizld1 on Jul 20, 2012 18:03:16 GMT -5
It's not clear what's been done to your machine. A dual output coil was used with the electronic ignition fitted to 80-83 US models. If that's what you have, there should be nothing under the chrome covers on the sides of your cylinder head. Two single output coils were used with the breaker point ignition fitted to earlier models. A later engine can be fitted with breaker point ignition by installing bushings and seals in the camshaft to support the ignition rod, and fitting points and advance unit under the chrome covers. Have a look and see if that's been done to your bike. Go to www.biker.net and download the factory manual; it's free. You need to use coil(s) with correct primary resistance, and you'll find the specs there.
|
|
|
Post by metalfingers on Jul 21, 2012 12:26:42 GMT -5
Well griz, the other night (before I read your post) I got to wondering what was under the cover if it was electronic ignition. My other xs's (72 & 78) both have points.
So, I popped the cover off low and behold... POINTS. Why anyone would convert back to points is beyond me, but that's what they did.
The PO also said he put a new reg/rectifier on it and I'm guessing he used one for a non-points system. This could be my problem. Or is my thinking off?
I replaced the plugs and wires and actually got it running, but barely and was running like crap. Do I need to go back to a 70-79 reg/rec. ?
|
|
|
Post by grizld1 on Jul 21, 2012 14:46:36 GMT -5
The conversion was probably done because a PO had or suspected a bad igniter box.
Either charging system will work with either ignition. The 80-forward charging system is wired differently than earlier models, though; to use the late OE solid state reg/rec with an early stator requires that you insulate the grounded brush and connect it to switched power instead of ground.
You'll want to clean up the points with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper or a points file, clean them with solvent, gap them, and use a strobe to see what's happening; the complete procedure is in the manual. One problem you'll face if the PO left the late stator in place is that it has no advance mark, so you'll need to make your own, 40* to the left of the "T" mark; a simple protractor will show you where to put it. Be sure to inspect timing in both retarded and advanced modes; when the ATU wears, the advance curve stretches, often to the point that when the ignition is in range at idle the spark goes into the piston-holing range at full advance, and when set correctly at full advance, the spark retards far enough to pop the carbies out of the boots from time to time.
|
|
|
Post by metalfingers on Jul 24, 2012 20:05:35 GMT -5
Thanks for the info griz. Here's the reg/rec i'm working with.  and here's where it plugs into the harness  There's another connector plug (to the right) that would fit but it has different colored wires. The factory didn't by chance put two connectors on so that you could swap to the old electrical system and just plug-n-play, did they? If not, can you explain which wire needs to be switched instead of grounded? Oh, and here's the coils and condenser rigged up from PO.  Have a float sticking too, so I'm off to clean the carbs ;D
|
|
|
Post by 10ecjed on Jul 25, 2012 11:28:45 GMT -5
FYI the other connector is from the TCI unit under the battery.
|
|
|
Post by grizld1 on Jul 26, 2012 8:40:44 GMT -5
Right, the empty plug isn't going to be used with points ignition.
As far as the charging system goes, I can't tell you a thing until you take the trouble to tell us just what you have for a stator.
And buy yourself a multitester so you can figure out which wire goes where in your harness. A minute of testing beats an hour of stress and guesswork every time.
|
|
|
Post by mistermoe on Jul 26, 2012 20:15:34 GMT -5
I can't imagine owning one of these bikes and not have a multimeter. That would be madness. 
|
|
|
Post by metalfingers on Jul 27, 2012 8:25:29 GMT -5
hmm, I actually have 3 multimeters and 2 manuals (clymer & a haynes). But what good are they when you're dumber than a box of rocks?
don't know why but I couldn't make sense of your post on the stator the first time, but I gotcha now. I'll look for the timing marks today.
|
|
|
Post by metalfingers on Jul 29, 2012 16:55:59 GMT -5
Cleaned the carbs, cleaned the points, adjusted gaps, set timing (retarded only) and looked at the stator. Looks like the late one to me, cant see an advanced mark anywhere. Haven't made one with the protractor yet.  Now I got it running real good on the left cylinder, w/full choke, but the right cylinder doesn't seem to be firing, maybe a little if anything. Nice blue spark from the Left points very faint spark on the right. I criss crossed plug wires to entertain myself & it wouldn't start, some popping, but wouldn't go. So then, I swapped the points wires around & it fired up again, but only running on left cylinder still. This time, the good blue spark was on the Right points. Plug wires were still swapped, so it was firing from the right coil. Maybe I am going about this all wrong, but it tells me: 1. Both coils are good 2. Points are clean & working fine. 3. Plug wires & caps aren't the problem So I start to question the right carb, but I cleaned them pretty well, and there's that weak spark on one side. I'm leaning towards the electrical system again, but one good spark & one bad spark is stumping me. I don't understand the ignition system enough, but it seems like the coils would be the cause of good or bad spark. Any help? Remember, I'm not real smart.
|
|
|
Post by grizld1 on Jul 29, 2012 21:24:24 GMT -5
A good place to start would be to unplug the ignition connectors, sand the bullets and clean the sockets with a needle file or tight roll of sandpaper, and apply dielectric grease. Also check the power going to the coils through the Red/White wire against battery power. If there's more than 1/2V drop at the coils, clean up the kill switch.
|
|
|
Post by xsleo on Aug 4, 2012 9:25:14 GMT -5
You have other XS650's with points? Measure from the TDC mark to the full advance mark on one of them. Use the measurement to ad a full timing mark on your 82. Leo
|
|
|
Post by metalfingers on Aug 4, 2012 12:11:16 GMT -5
Thanks Leo. That's sounds easier. Well I cleaned the carbs again & that was my problem. Running good on both sides now. Not charging tho, I gotta go reread & find out how it should be wired.
|
|