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Post by Burns on Nov 24, 2014 12:48:33 GMT -5
I accept the blame. Thanks for the visit Griz. Sorry for the diversion Steve.
Griz is da man on such issues.
Since you are getting 14 volts at the battery it seems likey that the problem is "north" of the charging system. The kill switch is a well-known source for drawing power.
My last kibitz. Thank you for your indulgence.
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Post by shinysteve on Jan 10, 2015 5:52:25 GMT -5
Sorry for the delay, its been too cold and dark over here in the uk to work in a garage with no electricity. I borrowed a ignition switch, wired it in no difference. I got a sparkplug/ignition tester and confirmed what is happening is as the revs build the spark dies, just cuts out. This coincides with 14.5 volts at the battery. Ican now only assume the problem is with the boyer ignition which is quite old, but have been in touch with them and am waiting for a reply. Possibly there is something in the ignition box that as the voltage increases it over loads/shorts out. Failing that I might have to put the points etc back on.
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Post by grizld1 on Jan 10, 2015 8:23:30 GMT -5
Steve, you might check power into the box and into the coil as you rev the motor before you assume that the box is bad.
There's also this old rule of thumb: "If something is happening that doesn't make sense, check ground (earth) connections." If the ground wire to your box is plugged into the harness, you might want to put a ring connector on it and hook up directly to the frame.
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Post by shinysteve on Mar 18, 2015 13:52:06 GMT -5
at last, areply from boyer bransdon, there is a diode in the red box which is susceptible to high voltages, this was at fault in my ignition. A new box supplied and it now all works, and with my new regulator/rectifier hopefully that is the end of my problems. Many thanks for your assistance.
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Post by grizld1 on Mar 20, 2015 13:53:50 GMT -5
Congrats, Steve! (Looks like the assistance wasn't worth much; thanks for being gracious enough to pretend that it was!)
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