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Post by 5twins on Jul 24, 2007 22:13:21 GMT -5
Not really. My '78 specs exactly that as stock settings.
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Post by 5twins on Dec 13, 2007 13:12:53 GMT -5
Well, I guess it's time for an update. I ran the adjusters all summer and they seem to have worked quite well. I was able to run stock and even larger clearances with little if any additional clatter. A few re-adjustments seemed to be needed in the 1st few hundred miles (clearances increased slightly). I'm thinking the ball and foot part of the adjuster needs to bed in some.
I tried different clearances and ran compression tests but found no discernible difference in readings. Maybe a pound or 2 but I attribute that to just gauge error or weather factors (temp, humidity) on the different test days. I certainly wasn't seeing the 10 - 20 pound differences that PJ mentioned.
As far as using the larger clearances to allow more oil in between the parts, well, I'm thinking that half works. It could be happening on the cam end of the rocker but the valve end is a different story. I found the foot of the adjuster remains stuck to the valve top from the oil layer between the 2. All movement allowed by your lash setting takes place between the foot and the ball it's attached to. I'm thinking that very large clearances may accelerate wear in this area.
After experimenting a bit at the beginning of the season, I ended up running .004" int. (stock spec for my '78) and .008" ex. for the remainder of the year. I'll probably go back to the stock ex. spec next spring (.006"). It will be interesting to see if they loosened up some more. You really can't tell from the sound now, they run so quiet.
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xsjohn
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by xsjohn on Jan 15, 2008 9:59:31 GMT -5
I was going to do the feet thing but opted to add some oil back there since the cam slings the oil forward and the damn stops a bunch of oil from going back......factory paranoia about the oil getting sucked out the breather I suppose.........added oilers to the intake via the top end oil supply.......(.022) thou aperature using pilot jets drops oil right on the area......now intakes are set at 4 thou and I hear nothing........different slant than the feet but it works....... xsjohn  |
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rch
New Member
Posts: 14 
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Post by rch on Nov 24, 2008 11:54:15 GMT -5
Berg's are the best hands down. I build lots of VW motors and his screws are the only ones to use if you run the stock rocker in a VW. Porsche do work well also but are slightly longer. Stay away from the type with ball with the flat ground on it, came from Ford courrier/Mazda motors. Don What is the problem with these? I'm looking to do this mod without taking the engine apart, I just got the engine back together and installed in the bike when I found this thread. Looking for a way to just remove the old screw and install a new one with a swivel head. I'm going to check out the BMW dealer to see what their's look like. I seem to remember on my old GS that the screws had swiveling heads. |
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olie
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by olie on Nov 24, 2008 15:12:12 GMT -5
I think he's talking about these:  The fear is that the ball will rotate around when its not on the top of the valve causing the sphere section to be facing the top of the valve. If it hits the valve it will open the valve more than you set your clearance to using the flat side causing the valve to open more than you want. Also it can't be controlled when thats going to happen or on which valve. The ball may not rotate enough as well causing the threaded shaft to pound away at the valve tip. |
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rch
New Member
Posts: 14
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Post by rch on Nov 24, 2008 16:29:15 GMT -5
That was my concern, not enough rotation to clear the end of the screw. I think with only .004 and .006 gap it would be hard for the ball to rotate, but the angularity would be a concern as the rocker arm rotates. Thanks for your response.
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Post by donniedark on Dec 8, 2008 22:34:28 GMT -5
I think he's talking about these: The fear is that the ball will rotate around when its not on the top of the valve causing the sphere section to be facing the top of the valve. If it hits the valve it will open the valve more than you set your clearance to using the flat side causing the valve to open more than you want. Also it can't be controlled when thats going to happen or on which valve. The ball may not rotate enough as well causing the threaded shaft to pound away at the valve tip. Olie Where did that pic come from? These are different, they look like the ones Kedo in Germany sells for TT/SR500's. The one's I was speaking of came from a Ford Courier or a Mazda engine. They had a larger area at the ball end and a larger ball, so they could not be screwed in from the top of the rocker. The problem I had with them was that the ball would sink into the screw on a lot of them, way more spring than Mazda designed them for I suspect. The only time we had the balls turn over was when for what ever reason the valve clearance got way way too loose and the engine was run that way. The Kedo type look like your picture. I am trying to get some to try but Kedo won't sell to America. Also the screws from Gene Berg are now being made in China and don't hold up well from what has been reported to me. Don |
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Post by dps650rider on Dec 9, 2008 19:18:41 GMT -5
Has anyone ever had a problem with a rocker arm after grinding that much material from them? I love the idea of this but am very apprehensive about weakening the rockers.
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bassman
Junior Member
XS2 1972 SR400 1983
Posts: 66
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Post by bassman on Dec 10, 2008 6:12:18 GMT -5
I have the Kedo screws on my SR400 for maybe 2 years now. I use the bike practically every day when it´s not winter, and I think I have adjusted them once. I will have a look at them this winter, to see if they need any adjustment again.
Maybe they fit the XS2 also, in this case I think I will get a second pair.
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Post by 5twins on Dec 11, 2008 12:22:39 GMT -5
Apparently this mod has been done to the SR500 for quite a few years now with no reported ill effects from grinding the rockers. I've got 2 seasons and several thousand miles on mine so far with no problems yet. I will post if any develop.
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olie
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by olie on Dec 11, 2008 16:23:48 GMT -5
That pic is actually swiped from mcmaster. I knew what you were talking about and knew they had them. Sorry its not the real McCoy. Just used it to illustrate a point.
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bassman
Junior Member
XS2 1972 SR400 1983
Posts: 66
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Post by bassman on Dec 12, 2008 6:33:57 GMT -5
Just to clearify, I did not have to grind anywhere to fit the Kedo screws. They are a drop in.
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Post by dps650rider on Dec 12, 2008 21:40:43 GMT -5
How much do the Kedo screws help?
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Post by 5twins on Dec 13, 2008 11:31:03 GMT -5
I think just about anything would be an improvement over the originals. The rounded end on the stock screw contacts the valve stem top in only one tiny spot. Eventually, this wears the end of the screw and dimples the valve stem. A larger contact patch between the 2 is what we're after. The elephant's feet are even larger than the valve stem top so completely cover it. I'm not sure about the ball ended screws but any increase in contact area has got to help.
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Post by dps650rider on Dec 13, 2008 15:48:44 GMT -5
Agreed on the contact patch 5twins, that has to help.
I was thinking that with the Kedo's, the ball and socket joint is upside down and wouldn't hold oil like the elephant's foot adjusters. I wonder how much it matters.
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Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5