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Post by 5twins on Dec 13, 2008 18:20:59 GMT -5
Those screws from McMaster-Carr might be the simplest solution ..... www.mcmaster.com/library/20060705/92123A123L.GIFIt appears they'd screw right in from the top and need no mods to the rocker. The thread pitch would need to be verified (I don't recall what the originals are) but if they match up, this would be a simple upgrade. The valve stems are 8mm diameter but beveled slightly at the top. That would probably make the valve top about 5 or 6mm across. The 4.5mm flat on the ball would cover most of it. The stuff from McMaster-Carr is high quality and usually American made. If it's imported, they usually tell you so in the part description. I see no mention of that for this item so I'm assuming it's a nice American made part. Let us know if you try some out. |
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bassman
Junior Member
XS2 1972 SR400 1983
Posts: 66
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Post by bassman on Dec 13, 2008 20:15:44 GMT -5
dps650rider, as I mentioned I now hardly have to adjust the screws on my SR400, but when I had the original screws, I had to do it every second month, and furthermore the valve stem ends and the tip of the screws got pitted as well, so measurments became more and more incorrect.
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Post by dps650rider on Dec 13, 2008 22:01:53 GMT -5
Did the Kedo's quiet the valve noise as well?
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bassman
Junior Member
XS2 1972 SR400 1983
Posts: 66
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Post by bassman on Dec 14, 2008 12:25:26 GMT -5
I don´t remember if they did. But, because they keep the settings longer, the noise stays pretty much the same during time.
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olie
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by olie on Dec 15, 2008 22:50:12 GMT -5
The mcmasters might not be a bad idea. It all depends on what alloy the roller is...They say its minimum hardness is C60, which is really good, but the screw is C35 which worries me a little. The other thing is if the 9° of rotation is enough to keep the screw from smacking the valve tip. for about 35.60 a set its pretty comparable. Someone try these dang things!
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Post by donniedark on Dec 16, 2008 11:03:07 GMT -5
That mcmaster screw has the wrong thread, 8X1.25 vs 8X1.0 for the Yamaha part.
Try the Kedo screws if you can get them.
Don
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Post by xsleo on Dec 18, 2008 3:33:22 GMT -5
i just bought the porshe style from pap parts. $3.13 each.
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Post by 5twins on Dec 18, 2008 17:07:15 GMT -5
Got a link and some more info? That's a good price.
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Post by xsleo on Dec 19, 2008 3:35:33 GMT -5
i used tony101bikes link on page one of this thread. didn't work so i just did a search for www.pap-parts.com looked them up and bought them. their item # is 901 105 37 0 02 rocker arm swivel 911 65-94 thats whats wrote on the invoice. the shipping is as much as parts. they look to be very well made. got them in just a few days. will need the rocker arm cut back to fit. |
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Post by xsleo on Dec 19, 2008 3:50:04 GMT -5
just for kicks i put porshe rocker arm in the ebay search engine and found these. item # 190274234595 maybe i should have bought these, then i could sell the extras for enough to pay for the ones i use.
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Post by xsleo on Dec 20, 2008 19:51:30 GMT -5
i was just checking a few thins on my rocker arms. with the porshe adjusters and a stock cam, you definitly need to cut the rockers. with the adjusters screwed in all the way then backed out 1/4 turn to let the swivel part to move, when the rocker box is set on the head with the cam in place and with both valves closed the adjuster try to push the valves open. so if installed that way the valves would not close. with an after market cam you might want to check before cutting the rocker. earlier in this thread someone said with there cam it worked without cutting. in stead of cutting it that way, could someone with a milling machine cut an opening in the rocker arm large enough to allow the swivel part to recess into the arm and still swivel? that would keep from cutting away the reinforcing ridge. i'll have to take to a machine shop and see.
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Post by xsleo on Jan 13, 2009 5:56:53 GMT -5
i got my rockers ground and the elephant foot adjusters installed and back in the rocker box.
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 11, 2009 15:43:16 GMT -5
I've been looking at this for a while but have been skeptical about taking that much material (and strength) off the rocker arm to get the required clearance. So I got a set of adjusters and thought I could grind a cone into the rocker (used one from a spare head to test) to get the additional 4 mm of clearance. I did that with a dremel and then ground the end of the rocker back to remove more weight and to hopefully allow oil into the ball and socket joint. Anybody have any opinions on this?     |
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olie
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by olie on Feb 12, 2009 14:57:56 GMT -5
Those look pretty good. One thing, which may not be an issue but worth looking at, is if there's enough of a cone shape taken out to allow the foot to fully rotate without binding on the rocker. Looks like good work though, what kind of bit did you use?
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 12, 2009 19:19:05 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure the cones are plenty deep enough but I won't know for sure till I try them in my engine. I put them in my spare head with a stock cam that was cut and pressed back together for the rephase (ended up having Megacycle do a cam) and there was more than enough clearance. For an adjuster where the rocker was on the cam base circle I get 3 1/2 turns on the adjuster between contacting the valve and being extended all the way. One thing that helps for assembly is the rephased cam. Because the firing order is not symetrical anymore there is a position you can put the cam in where all of the valves are are closed more than with the stock firing interval.  |
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