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Post by dps650rider on Feb 12, 2009 20:28:02 GMT -5
Here's what it looks like after shortening them installed in my spare head with the valve adjustment approximately correct.  |
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olie
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by olie on Feb 12, 2009 21:17:22 GMT -5
That looks like it'll work. Looks like you even shortened studs some. Take awhile to grind with those bits? What grit are they? Thanks for the awesome pics!
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 12, 2009 21:46:08 GMT -5
To my surprise it didn't take long at all. Don't know what the grit is.
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 16, 2009 22:05:43 GMT -5
Well, I guess I should consider the first set a practice run. Once I got the engine apart I could see that the rockers in it were in better shape than the spare set. They also were worn into the cam so I decided to use these instead. After rotating the cam over a lobe and watching the geometry I decided that I didn't need to grind the angle at the end of the rocker to help oil the elephant feed so the strength of the rockers is not compromized. Here's some pics... The cone ground into the rocker...  With the adjuster installed and fully retracted. This cam has a stock base circle and assembly can be done without compressing valve springs...  The adjustment set to the proper clearance and the valve closed. When the valve is fully opened there is plenty of room for oil to get in and clearance between the foot and the cone cut into the rocker...  |
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Post by retiredgentleman on Feb 22, 2009 21:49:41 GMT -5
dps650rider;
That looks like a great set up for minimizing wear on the valve tips. Which adjusters did you buy, and was the only mod, the grinding of the cone for clearance?
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 23, 2009 17:41:48 GMT -5
retiredgentleman, Here's the ones I used: www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1411The cone cuts and shorting the adjusters was all I had to do to make them work. Note that I do have a 277 rephase with a Megacycle cam. This cam has the same base circle as a stock cam. If you did this with a 360 engine you may need to cut a little deeper for assembly of the head cover. With the 277 firing interval there is a wider gap between cam lobes at one position of the cam that helps a bit with assembly. |
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 27, 2009 19:32:44 GMT -5
Well enough of the crap melted off my dirt road so I could get the bike to the pave and try it out. The valves are not silent, I can still hear them, but they are MUCH quieter. Can't wait to see how they are over the course of the summer. ;D
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Post by xsleo on Feb 27, 2009 23:49:02 GMT -5
I didn't shorten mine.There seemed to be plenty of room inside with out.
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Post by tomterrific on Feb 28, 2009 8:57:48 GMT -5
I like cutting the top threads off the adjuster. It removes some weight right where light weight is most critical. The tip of the threads can be ground at a 45° angle to help get the nut started like the tip is shaped on the cut off threads.
dps, I thought about the noise you say you have and wonder if the elephant foot needs a different adjustment method. The oil in the ball and socket may have an artificial affect on the measurement. With the feeler blade in place, tightening the adjuster too tight and then loosening to adjust would squeeze the oil out. Just thinking, don't know if it is necessary.
Tom Graham
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 28, 2009 10:18:18 GMT -5
Tom, agreed on the weight removal. I cut them as short as possible for that very reason.
That could very well be a good adjustment method. However it could be they are not "silent" partially because they are new and wearing in and need to be adjusted again. Also, I am using an aftermarket cam and the recommended valve clearance is .010 and .012.
I was very impressed with the noise reduction on the short, 10 mile ride I took. Elimination of the valve tip wear I think will make a big difference as well because they will stay in adjustment better. I used to adjust the valves every 2000 (as opposed to the recommended 4000 miles) to keep them quiet.
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Post by 5twins on Feb 28, 2009 10:35:51 GMT -5
I found I needed a couple quick re-adjustments within the first few hundred miles after installing mine. I'm guessing the ball and foot part needs to bed in some when new.
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xsjohn
Junior Member
Posts: 67
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Post by xsjohn on Feb 28, 2009 11:38:25 GMT -5
Couple of years ago I added oilers to the intake valves.......they do run a bit dry....quiet now...other than that I think the Dam Yamaha built to prevent oil from slinging back was a bit obtrusive......always thought that a 1/4" groove cut in Dam would sling some more oil back to the intakes.......suppose they were a bit paranoid about oil getting out the vent.......my take is the paranoia was a bit overdone......the main reason the intakes are noise to begin with is that most of the oil (feeding from above the cam) is already slung forward...........xsjohn  |
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Post by dps650rider on Feb 28, 2009 12:20:40 GMT -5
John, I've looked at that dam quite a bit myself and tend to agree with you, The only trouble with modifying it is if you overdo it and get too much oil it would be harder to reverse.
FYI, I like the oilers you did. When I had it apart I was thinking one could also drill tiny holes into the oil passage to get more oil on the intakes but didn't have the guts to try it.
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bassman
Junior Member
XS2 1972 SR400 1983
Posts: 66
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Post by bassman on Mar 16, 2009 7:07:41 GMT -5
Hi, just wanted to mention. I adjusted my SR´s valves this weekend, it has the Kedo screws, and they seem to be a drop in on the XS too, with no grinding etc.
I have used them a couple of seasons now, with hardly no necessary adjustment, until now, but I only needed to correct the exhaust one.
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Post by crazypj22 on Mar 16, 2009 10:24:44 GMT -5
John, I've looked at that dam quite a bit myself and tend to agree with you, The only trouble with modifying it is if you overdo it and get too much oil it would be harder to reverse. FYI, I like the oilers you did. When I had it apart I was thinking one could also drill tiny holes into the oil passage to get more oil on the intakes but didn't have the guts to try it. Its not a good idea to be cutting on that dam. If you think about it, the cam turns towards it and picks up oil to throw onto rocker arm. If you cut it down, you get more oil to base of valve spring and less oil to the rubbing surfaces. Blocking drain channel on exhaust side will give higher oil level and force oil to drain towards cam tunnel, thereby throwing more oil around top end. You could also tap the drain back holes on intake side, screw in restrictor plugs and keep more oil in there. I cut heads off Allen bolts and thread outsides, drill hole through center. Its easy to return to stock or drill out center hole if its overoiling PJ |
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Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5