Solid State Regulator $25.94

[pamcopete]

rudy78

I replied to your Email asking for your address, but did not get a response from you. Just PM me here with your address and I'll buy the parts for you and ship for cost plus shipping.

[pamcopete]

Here's the companion rectifier for $6.58.

xs650temp.proboards29.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=1170385786&page=1#1170385786

[lsettle]

Here is a pic of the regulator...

[jeepurze]

ohhhh dang got the stuff . gotta remove old stuff off my fabbed stuff holder and make a heat sinc and im ready to R&R. umm reg&rec.

[pops]

Dang, Jeep...just like getting new shoes, isn't it? Almost wish my reg and rec would let the smoke out....almost.

pops

[jeepurze]

pops said:

Dang, Jeep...just like getting new shoes, isn't it? Almost wish my reg and rec would let the smoke out....almost.

pops

im stoked.

[pamcopete]

jeepurze

Check the voltage drop across your ignition switch when you install the rec / reg setup. The regulator "sees" the voltage on the brown wire, but the output from the rectifier is on the red wire, so any drop across the switch will show up as a higher voltage on the battery terminals.

Example: brown wire (regulated) voltage = 14.5.......drop across the switch = 1 volt.....battery voltage = 15.5. If you have more than .3 volts across the switch, clean the switch contacts, buy a new switch and/or install my relay mod which connects the regulator directly to the battery.

[jeepurze]

heres what ill have, 2 fuse (chopper wiring) I scored a suzuk savage 2 fuse block so I wouldnt have to use in line's 1 on off switch keyless, off/high/low beam for lights and horn , tail light. on elect start Ill have to draw up a wiring diag again.

[jeepurze]

gezz guess i just realized what goes where from vr to rec

VR has yellow green black orange, and rec has red. im assuming red is to bat through 20 amp fuse out of VR?
Red from rec goes? hmm nows when I realize im barely past sticking my tongue on it to see if its hot.

[pamcopete]

jeepurze

Her's a diagram showing both the regulator and the rectifier. There is no common connection between them other than ground.



The battery box is mounted on rubber insulators and is not a ground.

[jeepurze]

dang glad you had that! once im at the ig switch im ok. I ground at point on frame between frame rails above rear tire. I need to figure a way to mount rect in a vibe proof mount. the frames till bare and stripped so ive got plenty of time.

[pamcopete]

jeepurze

OK just a couple of notes:

1. It's ok if the heat sink for the rectifiers is floating, as long as the negative terminals are grounded.
2. Your "keyless" ign switch should eliminate the ign switch voltage drop, as long as it's of high quality (rated for 20 Amps minimum with semi precious metal contacts).
3. The regulator and the rectifier do not have to be mounted close to each other.....they work independently, so you could mount them anywhere on the frame.
4. Save the connector from the VR291 for warranty, because sometimes they insist on having the whole thing.

[Göran Persson]

Hello,

For Australia and New Zealand, there is an alternative
regulator from Bosch Australia (RE57) that is available
at most Australian / New Zealand Auto Electricians.
As an alternative for two rectifiers, there is three phase
rectifiers available in the same size (Semicron 36MT 160).
Available at RS Components.

I have posted some pictures on:
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v463/GoranXS650/
Go To: Gorans Project / Electrical (From 2005) or
Tinnis Project / Electrical (From 2007).

Wiring Diagrams and Drawings available.

Best Regards
Göran Persson
New Zealand

[pamcopete]

Göran Persson

The reason for using two full wave bridge rectifiers is cost. The Radio Shack full wave rectifiers are $3.29 ea, so two are $6.58. They are each rated at 25 amps with a PIV of 50V, so in this application, there is approximately 10 amps through one and 5 amps through the other at full load and the peak output voltage from the alternator should not exceed 20 VAC. In addition, there is an "extra" set of diodes unused that can be easily connected to any of the three phases should a diode pair fail.

Three phase diode bridges, such as an International Rectifier 36MT10, are typically in the $15 to $20 range with a current ratting of 35 Amps and a PIV of 100V, both greater than what is required for this application. The 36MT160 is rated at 1600 PIV and 35A, so you are paying for capability that you don't need.

I made numerous trips to Wellington in the mid '80's...stayed at the James Cook Hotel.....I have always regretted that I didn't take the time to tour the South Island, but I remember the great hospitality, Air New Zealand and ice cold Fosters at the James Cook.....Cheers!

[63a]

I am assembling an XS650 streettracker/bobber/ and plan to keep the wiring as simple as possible. I am going kickstart only for now and will be using the VR291/Radio Shack setup with a small sealed battery. My only concern based on the wiring diagrams in this thread and other simplified wiring diagrams is providing power to the headlight/taillight if the engine stalls. Since the power to the ignition swith is from the regulator versus straight off the battery, will the headlight get any power when the engine is not running? (Initial plan is to run one heavy wire to a toggle switch and use that switch to feed ignition, lights, signals, horn- basically everything) I know I could run a separate swith to power the lights directly off the battery but I would like to have one toggle switch for everything. For security purposes, I'm installing a blade fuse in the wire from the VR to the switch so I can remove the fuse and disable the bike. I am not very familiar with the XS charging system so I realize this may be a stupid question but I would rather ask than end up with a wiring/charging/lighting issue when the bike is done.

Thanks to all who share their knowledge so we newbies at least have a chance at getting it right.

Layne