Check the voltage drop across your ignition switch when you install the rec / reg setup. The regulator "sees" the voltage on the brown wire, but the output from the rectifier is on the red wire, so any drop across the switch will show up as a higher voltage on the battery terminals.
Example: brown wire (regulated) voltage = 14.5.......drop across the switch = 1 volt.....battery voltage = 15.5. If you have more than .3 volts across the switch, clean the switch contacts, buy a new switch and/or install my relay mod which connects the regulator directly to the battery.
Last Edit: Aug 4, 2007 9:00:00 GMT -5 by pamcopete
heres what ill have, 2 fuse (chopper wiring) I scored a suzuk savage 2 fuse block so I wouldnt have to use in line's 1 on off switch keyless, off/high/low beam for lights and horn , tail light. on elect start Ill have to draw up a wiring diag again.
gezz guess i just realized what goes where from vr to rec
VR has yellow green black orange, and rec has red. im assuming red is to bat through 20 amp fuse out of VR? Red from rec goes? hmm nows when I realize im barely past sticking my tongue on it to see if its hot.
dang glad you had that! once im at the ig switch im ok. I ground at point on frame between frame rails above rear tire. I need to figure a way to mount rect in a vibe proof mount. the frames till bare and stripped so ive got plenty of time.
1. It's ok if the heat sink for the rectifiers is floating, as long as the negative terminals are grounded. 2. Your "keyless" ign switch should eliminate the ign switch voltage drop, as long as it's of high quality (rated for 20 Amps minimum with semi precious metal contacts). 3. The regulator and the rectifier do not have to be mounted close to each other.....they work independently, so you could mount them anywhere on the frame. 4. Save the connector from the VR291 for warranty, because sometimes they insist on having the whole thing.
Last Edit: Aug 4, 2007 19:24:26 GMT -5 by pamcopete
Post by Göran Persson on Aug 4, 2007 20:46:11 GMT -5
For Australia and New Zealand, there is an alternative regulator from Bosch Australia (RE57) that is available at most Australian / New Zealand Auto Electricians. As an alternative for two rectifiers, there is three phase rectifiers available in the same size (Semicron 36MT 160). Available at RS Components.
The reason for using two full wave bridge rectifiers is cost. The Radio Shack full wave rectifiers are $3.29 ea, so two are $6.58. They are each rated at 25 amps with a PIV of 50V, so in this application, there is approximately 10 amps through one and 5 amps through the other at full load and the peak output voltage from the alternator should not exceed 20 VAC. In addition, there is an "extra" set of diodes unused that can be easily connected to any of the three phases should a diode pair fail.
Three phase diode bridges, such as an International Rectifier 36MT10, are typically in the $15 to $20 range with a current ratting of 35 Amps and a PIV of 100V, both greater than what is required for this application. The 36MT160 is rated at 1600 PIV and 35A, so you are paying for capability that you don't need.
I made numerous trips to Wellington in the mid '80's...stayed at the James Cook Hotel.....I have always regretted that I didn't take the time to tour the South Island, but I remember the great hospitality, Air New Zealand and ice cold Fosters at the James Cook.....Cheers!
Last Edit: Aug 5, 2007 7:53:05 GMT -5 by pamcopete
I am assembling an XS650 streettracker/bobber/ and plan to keep the wiring as simple as possible. I am going kickstart only for now and will be using the VR291/Radio Shack setup with a small sealed battery. My only concern based on the wiring diagrams in this thread and other simplified wiring diagrams is providing power to the headlight/taillight if the engine stalls. Since the power to the ignition swith is from the regulator versus straight off the battery, will the headlight get any power when the engine is not running? (Initial plan is to run one heavy wire to a toggle switch and use that switch to feed ignition, lights, signals, horn- basically everything) I know I could run a separate swith to power the lights directly off the battery but I would like to have one toggle switch for everything. For security purposes, I'm installing a blade fuse in the wire from the VR to the switch so I can remove the fuse and disable the bike. I am not very familiar with the XS charging system so I realize this may be a stupid question but I would rather ask than end up with a wiring/charging/lighting issue when the bike is done.
Thanks to all who share their knowledge so we newbies at least have a chance at getting it right.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5