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Post by pamcopete on Aug 9, 2007 19:37:02 GMT -5
jepurze Right. Wire a fuse from the brown wire to the kill switch and then to the coils. Everything works off of the brown wire. Actually, I should have made it clearer with a red wire to the ignition switch from the 20 Amp fuse, so here is a revised drawing.  |
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Post by jeepurze on Aug 9, 2007 19:50:29 GMT -5
jepurze Right. Wire a fuse from the brown wire to the kill switch and then to the coils. Everything works off of the brown wire. Actually, I should have made it clearer with a red wire to the ignitoin switch from the 20 Amp fuse. hey im not complaining, ive learned more off these threads on wiring than I did taking a blow dryer in a bathtub. got the two fuse block today, its a neat little deal . |
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Post by jeepurze on Aug 11, 2007 16:48:35 GMT -5
wont clutter up this thread with more pics after this, heres where im at, al post rest of pics on build thread. the reg wire with tape is two wires together with red shrinkY wrap. I forgot to put the shrinky stuff on the hot and ground and was wondering rather than redo, have you ever used liquid elect tape? could I use it to clean up the solders.? thanks.  |
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 11, 2007 20:03:27 GMT -5
jepurze
I have never used liquid tape, although I have heard of split shrink tubing that glues together when you apply the heat, but I haven't actually used it. Might be a good time to find out about it. I would be careful about unsoldering the connections on the rectifier, because there is a possibility that you could ruin the diodes in the packs. They are really designed to "suffer" just once during assembly, like in a factory. So, you could cut the wires, put the heat shrink on and then resolder the wires a couple of inches away from the rectifiers, remembering, of course, to heat shrink the wires as well. I would also suggest that you remove these components when you weld.
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Post by jeepurze on Aug 11, 2007 20:21:50 GMT -5
yup there just fit loose for mach up, thats why I didnt want to take em off to put the shrink tube on, like an idiot I forgot it had to be on the jumper wires first , duh, senior moment. ive never heard of split shrinkY wrap, but Ive lotsa other stuff to do. Pull off this part do research go to the next. thanks pete
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63a
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by 63a on Aug 27, 2007 16:15:32 GMT -5
 Thanks to many folks on this site, I think my XS650 project's wiring is almost done. I used the AMC regulator and Radio Shack rectifier combo. Right now, I'm planning for kick only but the battery in the pick is the same one as my KTM 520 so I may give it a try on the 650. If I decide to try the e-start, I will add the solenoid at the front of the seat platform opposite the battery. The regulator is mounted to left side of the battery tray (left side of bike, bottom of pic). The second pic is a side view. The blue fuse hanging below the frame rail is the main fuse going to the battery (placeholder 15A in place now but will be 20A for actual use). Just forward of the the fuse is the main ignition switch (rated for 35A). It will be in easy reach of my right hand but not too obvious. I know it isn't a pro job but I think I accomplished my goal of simple and fairly unobtrusive. Thanks again for all the great help I've gotten on this site. |
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 28, 2007 6:56:44 GMT -5
63a
Looks great! Just a small suggestion.....you may want to mount the rectifiers on the other side of the bracket to prevent a tool or something else shorting out the contacts, especially the red wire which goes to the battery.
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63a
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by 63a on Aug 29, 2007 17:41:07 GMT -5
That is a good point. I'll make some plastic covers to go over the rectifiers and main switch. I was trying to keep the wiring as clean as possible when viewed from the bottom.
Thanks again.
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jflugo
New Member
1974 TX650A
Posts: 42
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Post by jflugo on Dec 2, 2007 18:25:39 GMT -5
All,
My local part stores (Newark, Delaware) did not have a VR291. AutoZone had a Wells VR727 listed as an alternate part (fits a 1974 Jeep) for $25.99. The part has the same color wiring and connector at the VR291. Has anyone tried as a substitute?
Thanks.
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 2, 2007 20:00:54 GMT -5
jflugo Well, the VR291 and VR727 are listed to work with a 1974 Jeep, but, just to be on the safe side, you could order the VR291 online at: www.partsamerica.com/Just watch for a pricing change based on your ZIP code. You could also ask your local Advance Auto to order it in for you. |
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jflugo
New Member
1974 TX650A
Posts: 42
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Post by jflugo on Dec 3, 2007 15:08:02 GMT -5
Thanks Pete!
I reached out the maker of the VR727, Wells Manufacturing in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin, to ask if their part was an equivalent to the GP Sorensen VR291. Surprisingly, they responded within 24 hours with a confirmation that this was an equivalent!
So I'll go out on a limb and try the VR727. The part looks almost identical to the VR291 - same wiring and a small difference on the installation tabs. I'll make some measurements on installation and will report back.
Wish me luck!
Regards.
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jflugo
New Member
1974 TX650A
Posts: 42
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Post by jflugo on Dec 9, 2007 12:44:45 GMT -5
I reached out the maker of the VR727, Wells Manufacturing in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin, to ask if their part was an equivalent to the GP Sorensen VR291. Surprisingly, they responded within 24 hours with a confirmation that this was an equivalent! So I'll go out on a limb and try the VR727. The part looks almost identical to the VR291 - same wiring and a small difference on the installation tabs. I'll make some measurements on installation and will report back. I'm back. I had an opportunity to swap the OEM rectifier with the VR727 (VR291 equivalent). I'm happy to report that it seems to work fine. After a slow and careful installation, the bike started right up after a couple of kicks - I could swear she sounded peppier. Although anecdotal at best, the lights appear brighter (tested at night) and did not seem to dim and brigthen as much with RPM differences. After warming her up and taking a spin around the neighborhood, I measured the voltage at the battery posts and with headlight off (sporting a halogen conversion). Voltage ranged from 13.6 to 14.0 at idle, and a steady 14.2 at around 3500 to 4000 RPM. It's still early, but I am very encouraged. I decided not to hard wire to the harness, so a 3-prong connector from MikesXS is next to make it a permanent installation. Next on the list are pamcopete's Rectifier Replacement to replace the 32 year old OEM, and the Ignition Relay mod. Thanks Pete!! Best regards. |
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Post by laotzuistruth on Dec 18, 2007 15:31:41 GMT -5
Just an FYI, I have been working with an Advance parts store in N.C. and I gave them a VR291 number but they shipped the one with the pink wire unfortunately.
Luckily the parts guy is really friendly and said he would keep ordering and hoping we get the newer unit with the orange wire, but I may be SOL as they say.
Maybe all the XS650 peeps already beat me to all of em LOL.
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 18, 2007 18:56:19 GMT -5
laotzuistruth
Yes, keep trying. When you get the "orange wire" unit, be sure to save the plug after you cut it off because they want the whole unit back for warranty, and there is a 1 year warranty on it.
Read jflugo's post above for a possible substitute from AutoZone as well. I can't reccomend it because I only reccomend parts that I have actually installed on my bike, but jflugo seemed to have good luck with it. Perhaps we could have an update from jflugo?
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Post by laotzuistruth on Dec 19, 2007 13:50:35 GMT -5
Got one  Oddly enough the Box had the 727 number as noted previously that the chap stated would work, but then a sticker with the 291 number. Apparently this merits further evidence that they interchange. FWIW I'll post if my wires boil. On related news, I just got a newtronics electronic ignition for my bike. Oh boy!!!!!1111oneoneone. |
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Oddly enough the Box had the 727 number as noted previously that the chap stated would work, but then a sticker with the 291 number. Apparently this merits further evidence that they interchange.