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Post by ShakerNorm on Jul 16, 2009 21:38:57 GMT -5
OK - only one REALLY silly question..... Where the heck did you get the nylon screws..?  I've always been a Mopar fan (All Hail Mighty Mother Mopar! ;D) and I've known for years that they had the best voltage regulator on the market (and probably the cheapest). One detail to remember - the Mopar voltage regulator is temperature sensitive - so it will allow your alternator to put out a little more voltage when it's cold (for us poor buggers up here in the frozen North in winter, and to get the battery recharged for the next start ;D), but as it gets warmer, the output will drop a little - so don't panic if your voltage varies a volt or two with temperature with this mod. THANK YOU Pete for ANOTHER great mod to keep my old bike running! And now I'm going to see if I have an old V-reg in my garage full of spare parts..........  |
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Post by pamcopete on Jul 17, 2009 7:13:49 GMT -5
ShakerNorm, Haven't heard from you in a while. Go To: www.smallparts.comOrder their #NSPH-M4712-50 which is a pack of 50 mm4 X .7 X 12. They will hit you with the shipping, of course, so it's going to cost about $5. (bummer). I just reordered a pack to replenish my supply which I usually offer to members. PM for details. If you can wait I'll be happy to send 4 to you. The extra one is for the one that you drop on the floor and can't find. If your old regulator is still working, you can, in good conscience, sell it on Ebay for $20 to pay for all this. That's like getting a brand new regulator with a one year warranty for free! |
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Post by 10ecjed on Jul 17, 2009 17:28:48 GMT -5
Pete, if he sells his ref. the beer will get warm.
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Post by bassman56 on Jul 17, 2009 20:42:35 GMT -5
Pete, sounds like 7808 might need to go to the VR-291 regulator. He has a '76. I have a 78 and I could not get the VR-295 to work. I had to rip out the "green wire", rip out the in-line fuse, replace the nylon screws with the old metal ones, and then wire up the VR-291. The 291 works like a champ, puts out 14.2-14.4V at 2500 rpm.
Also, in this hot dry climate I make it a point to check the battery fluid level about once a week. Fill it, charge it and go. Saves a lot of head-aches.
the bassman...
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Post by pamcopete on Jul 18, 2009 6:31:08 GMT -5
bassman56,
Well, I have a '78/E as well and It worked for me. I've had several people who have done the brush mod with the nylon screws succesfully. Probably more who didn't post.
The main advantage to the Chrsyler regulator is cost. Usually, less than $15. Also, you do not have to cut the plug off to use it, so you are not voiding the warranty.
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Post by ShakerNorm on Jul 30, 2009 19:55:26 GMT -5
Bassman -
If you really want it to look nice and neat - just cut off the original plug for the regulator (on the donor car) when you next visit your local junkyard - then splice the wires into the plug that mates into your bike's wiring harness.
Just make sure you cut of as much wire from the car as you can - the plug is weathertight, and clips onto the regulator so it won't fall off with vibration (the engineers at Mopar musta had their coffee before they designed it). ;D
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Post by ShakerNorm on Aug 13, 2009 20:52:16 GMT -5
Pete - I'm finally starting to do the Regulator mod to my bike, and I'm wondering how to route the wire from the alternator and out to a spot where I can splice into the brown wire. Is there a (hopefully obvious) way to follow the original wiring if I pull off the left side cover? I believe the wire from the other alternator brush direct to the regulator should be green (according to the schematics I have, at least). I also took a photo and tagged it so everyone can figure out exactly what's happening..... (and you can tell me if I'm screwing up before I do some REAL damage....  )  I hope I got your instructions right about the alternator...... I'd hate to mess up both myself and everyone else on this.... |
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 14, 2009 5:46:02 GMT -5
Shakernorm,
That's a great picture,and it's correct. I might borrow that next time someone asks about this mod.
You could just pick up the black wire on the bike side of the connector / plug, cut it and splice in the wire with a fuse to the brown wire.
Alternatively, you could run a wire out of the bottom of the alternator housing and up the frame to the headlight bowl. Put the fuse in the headlight bowl and connect to the brown wire from the ign switch.
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Post by ShakerNorm on Aug 14, 2009 7:48:38 GMT -5
So - as long as I make sure the black wire and the inner rotor are NOT grounded - I should be able to use the black wire at the connector near the old regulator as the fused/switched power wire? That makes it EASY! I've GOT to remember to bring my multimeter home from work tonight to check this out and get the old girl running again! Not that I'm going to ride it much this weekend - forecast is 50 degrees and solid rain for the next 4 days...  If that works, I'll change the photo to match! |
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 14, 2009 8:30:01 GMT -5
ShakerNorm,
Maybe not at the connector for the old regulator. I think that the black wire is grounded somewhere in the wiring harness between the connector to the alternator and the regulator, so you will have to pick it up near the connector on the bike side of the plug/connector.
Also remember that the Chrysler regulator has to have its case grounded, so if that black wire is grounded, you can crimp a eyelet type connector on the plug wires for the regulator and attach to the mounting hole for the regulator.
Remember that the battery box is not a ground so if you mount the regulator on the battery box it will not be grounded.
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Post by ShakerNorm on Aug 14, 2009 21:12:42 GMT -5
Pete: I just finished rewiring the alternator, and getting the voltage regulator installed.... WOW!!!! I now have 13.25v at IDLE - even with the high beam, turn signals and brake light all lit up! Revved it up and it held around 14-14.5v - just about perfect! ;D WOOHOO No more dead batteries!!!! I might even be able to use the electric starter once in a while.... ;D I'm even going to splurge and get a halogen headlight so I can see when I'm on the highway at night ;D It's not a pretty installation, but it works! And I'll try to get the photos posted ASAP to explain it. |
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 15, 2009 7:01:37 GMT -5
shakernorm,
That's great! What did you do with the black wire and the battery connection to the isolated brush?
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Post by ShakerNorm on Aug 15, 2009 9:39:59 GMT -5
I traced the black wire back to a 6-wire connector just in front of the battery. When I disconnected the connector - I found that the black wire it was not grounded between the connector and alternator - so I cut it at the connector - and spliced my inline fuse to it - then connected the other end of the fuse to the brown wire near the fuse block. I made sure that I connected to the unfused side of the brown wire, so I had all the power it needed (through the 7.5A fuse you suggested).
That meant that I used the old black (Ground) wire as the "brown" switched and fused wire.
The other end of the black wire (on the other side of the connector block) IS grounded (and possibly connected to the black wire at the voltage regulator), but I didn't need it, so I just left it alone.
I want to draw out a schematic of what I did (for future reference) so as soon as I do, I'll post it here for everyone to see.
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Post by cmantle1 on Mar 22, 2010 23:56:10 GMT -5
can u elaborate a little more on the wire by the brushes that u have to cut and splice to where??? the brown wire in the reg??
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Post by pamcopete on Mar 23, 2010 6:38:27 GMT -5
cmantle1, The brown wire is the main power wire coming off of the ignition switch, so you can pick it up in several locations, including the regulator. You have to remove the three screws that hold the grounded brush on the stator housing and replace them with nylon screws (M4-12) to isolate that brush from ground. Then, cut the black wire that goes to the brush at some convenient point and run a new wire with an inline 10A fuse to the brown wire from the ignition switch.  Picture courtesy of another member. |
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