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Post by corusco on Dec 21, 2007 1:19:58 GMT -5
And now, at long last and much toil by mrriggs and several others, we have a very attractive solution to all of this. I guess now all we need is for it to see some street time.
I would have thought that a battery elimination capacitor would need higher ratings than a few thousand microfarads to get things to stabilize and flow smoothly, but those little guys will be great! Maybe just need to work up a box for them just after the regulator? Or maybe just wrap them tightly?
Still interested in the bracket if you are still thinking about making them, mrriggs. Either way, I think I'm going to start on getting everything together...this is pretty exciting!
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Post by CaptDan on Dec 21, 2007 10:18:26 GMT -5
...I dug through the junk box and found a 1,000uf cap, hooked it across the regulator output and BADA-BING! She has 13 volts at idle and 14.5 at any rpm above that.KICK A$$!! (sorry) This is getting awesome! Let me know if you need someone to write out a step-by-step instruction sheet. *Rubs hands together in anticipation.* |
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Post by mrriggs on Dec 23, 2007 21:11:03 GMT -5
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Post by waynescyclegarage on May 24, 2008 12:47:07 GMT -5
Has the question been answered about the banshee rotor matching the XS650 crank? I have been running a modified DT250 magneto on my 77650D for 25 years or so. It is a total AC system, kick start only, no fuse, rectifier, battery etc. Just like a dirt bike with a kill buton. I do have very good lighting ( head, tail and brake ) no turn signals. I run the ignition and lighting off the single lighting coil and use the ignition coil for my brake light. I had to cut the taper on the flywheel to match and have always wanted to find another mag that could be fitted without to much engineering to do my next project. I still cannot believe that one is not on the market yet.
wayne huff
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Post by skr00zloose on Jun 8, 2008 15:31:55 GMT -5
so, pdxs, with your high output banshee stator, running stock points/coils off the stator, thru a regulator/rectifier to a battery, have you had any other issues? you have the hi-voltage lead disconnected and are floating the ground to run the reg/rec, and the reg/rec are charging the battery, correct? my main concern is ending up with a dead battery if i get caught in traffic and aren't running at higher rpm for a length of time. any issues/comments?
i only ask b/c i can get a complete 200w banshee stator, rotor, and timing plate for dirt cheap, and i already have a reg/rec that will work with it. my Xs chop just crapped it's last stock charge rotor. i only run minimal lights (headlight hi/lo, tail, and brake lights, that's it), so draw on the system isn't much. if i can get a 200w banshee setup cheap, would it even be worth it? i guess i could even use the banshee stator for the time being, and when i find a good deal on a cbr stator or equivalent, i could always swap that in and go back to my current reg/rec (off a gsxr600) to suit.
i'm really just trying to get my bike back up and running, it's my only transportation, and i REALLY don't want to buy another stock rotor just to have it crap out on me in the future.
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beebe
New Member
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Post by beebe on Jul 7, 2008 14:15:03 GMT -5
I think the Banshee rotor has the same taper as the XS crank. I could not detect any play when fitted up. I borrowed the one off my RZ (same rotor as Banshee) to test fitment.
But, since Banshee rotors are more expensive than I'm willing to pay, I picked up a VF500 rotor to go along with the stator I got, both on the cheap ($30 for both, to my door?). Problem is the VF500 rotor will not fit the XS crank. SO, since I had both the Banshee rotor and VF500 rotor in hand, I just turned a tapered adapter collar that fits the VF500 rotor onto the crank the same axial distance as the Banshee rotor. Getting the taper just-right is hard, but its right around 6° half-angle as I recall (in case anyone else wants to try it). The VF500 taper is the same as the Banshee and XS, so its just a reducing collar.
Anyway, if you have a lathe, that makes for cheap parts.
Next up is an adapter plate to bolt the stator on where the original mounted. Should be just a flat plate with mount holes.
That being said, after going to all that trouble, since my bike is the CDI model, I still don't have the ignition triggering part figured out yet. I picked up a "good" stock rotor to tide me over for the meantime.
[EDIT] It was a V30 Magna rotor, not a VT500...
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Post by waynescyclegarage on Dec 11, 2008 0:31:35 GMT -5
I just got all the parts for the Banshee mag. Now to replace my 75 DT250 magneto with one that is designed to fire two plugs. My 250 mag still works but my spark is still weak, I think the Banshee stuff will cure that. My bike has no battery, kick start only, no key, just a kill switch like a dirt bike. I bought a stator off Ebay that a dog had chewed up the wires but did not hurt the coils. I think it will work. It came with the stock mounting plate and a plate someone was rigging to fit something else. It fits the XS so I think that was the project but the seller was very secretive but I lucked out not having to rig a mounting plate, the one they were working on looks just fine, it bolts right up and seems sturdy. It is mounted to portrude more than the stock mounting plate as the stock Banshee flywheel does not go very far on the crank. I will let everyone know how it works out, I will be running a 12V regulator for the lights and my Honda Express little AC ignition coils (6v) but that does not matter if your system is all AC like mine.
Wish me luck. It will be after Christmas before I can start.
wayne
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Post by mojomoto on May 2, 2009 7:43:45 GMT -5
mrriggs and others have got me going too.
I just happend to have a perfectly fine FZR600 alternator sitting around and had to check. Same taper and also fit inside the cover! The difference....The flywheel/magnet is backwards compared to the banshee flywheel. It bowls outwards not inwards. The stator (i think thats the term) will have to mount under the "YAMAHA" cover. It is a tight fit between the cover and flywheel. My plan is to split the three wire casing and epoxy each wire inside the cover to prevent the wires from being rubbed. Hopefully this works too.
Ill keep updating if anybody is interested.
Thanks guys. This is a really good informational site.
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Post by CaptDan on Aug 2, 2009 17:00:36 GMT -5
While hunting through fleaBay, I found this out:
The Yamaha 350cc (and some 250cc) two-stroke twin was known by different names across the globe.
RD350, RD350LC, RZ350, RD350R, and RZ350R, among others. (http://www.rd350lc.net/index.htm)
Early RDs (’79 and older) used an electro-magnet alternator not much different from the XS. No good.
I’m not sure what system the mid-years (1980-1983) bikes used.
The bikes from 1984-1995(!) used a PM alternator that produced 14A @ 5000 rpm. This unit is physically much like the Banshee unit though the windings on the coils appear larger.
The Banshee (and/or YZF350) came along in 1987 and is still being sold.
Therefore, any RD/RZ/Banshee stator and rotor from 1984-on should serve as a good donor.
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Post by srinath on Jan 3, 2010 16:34:45 GMT -5
I had some questions - and maybe some ideas too on the banshee swap.
I have this rotor sittitng here, and I can fit it on the crank just fine, my question is, how do you remove it ? Now that the stator will be under it its going to be vital to get it out without hitting the stator.
The idea I had is - well, the woodruff key is actually required only if you're using it to do ignition as well. On the outer wall of the rotor there is a small metal strip, that needs to be runnign by the pick up located on the cover at the exact spot the cyl is at TDC - the static advance angle. So woodruff key can be simply ignored if you're not firing it off the rotor.
Then I am going to fit this onto a rephased motor. So I am thinking of firing it from the rotor, so I am thinking of fitting a pair of trigger coils and running the rotor with the coils and the black box off something else. Like a vulcan 500 (cos I have it) Now a vulcan rotor with a few mods (minimal really) seems to fit it too. Has anyone got any attempts with that.
Vulcan rotor, stator, pick ups and black box seem to be all a decent combo and I have most of those parts.
I actually could use Banshee rotor as well but need more mods for that.
Cool.
Srinath.
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Post by trebor13 on Mar 24, 2010 15:56:55 GMT -5
the banshee-stator plate is thicker where the mounting bolts go throug, kan i take 4mm of and make a adaptorring 4mm to bolt it to the case??
or will the left over (i think 4mm??) be to thin to mount the plate?
thanXS in advance grtz Tre
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Post by mrriggs on Mar 24, 2010 16:57:29 GMT -5
the banshee-stator plate is thicker where the mounting bolts go throug, kan i take 4mm of and make a adaptorring 4mm to bolt it to the case?? or will the left over (i think 4mm??) be to thin to mount the plate? thanXS in advance grtz Tre I remember my Banshee bracket was pretty thick on those mounting tabs. There is probably enough meat there to do what you want. |
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Post by trebor13 on Mar 25, 2010 17:39:24 GMT -5
ThanXS
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sand
New Member
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Post by sand on Jun 29, 2010 3:42:29 GMT -5
hey, great thread =)
i was at a local bike junkyard/parts store on sunday and i found what i think is a RD250 rotor in a bin. does anybody know what the PN is for a RD250 rotor? it had something stamped on it, but i had no idea if it was really the right part or not.
thanks!
[EDIT] sorry, i meant RD350
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Post by CaptDan on Jun 30, 2010 20:05:33 GMT -5
...does anybody know what the PN is for a RD250 rotor? it had something stamped on it, but i had no idea if it was really the right part or not. thanks! [EDIT] sorry, i meant RD350 See the bottom of page 5 in this thread for part number info. Sometimes a number stamped on a part is the part number, but most often we're not that lucky! . |
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