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Post by mrriggs on Feb 14, 2007 19:36:37 GMT -5
I got the Banshee rotor today. Just eye-balling it, it looks too large to fit inside the stock side cover. Didn't have time to try it. Besides I'm still waiting for my puller to come so I can get the stock rotor off. In another couple of days we should know for sure if this is a viable alternative or not.
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Post by mrriggs on Feb 18, 2007 12:36:56 GMT -5
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Post by Curly on Feb 19, 2007 19:48:15 GMT -5
Cool, I thought the crank tapers were different but that may have been to the RD350/400 crank. Does your CDI unit have a way to adust the advance curve?
Curly
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Post by mrriggs on Feb 19, 2007 21:38:22 GMT -5
Yep, the CDI advances the ignition. Not sure what the advance curve looks like but it's from a four stroke motor so it should be good enough. It's not like we're replacing a 3D mapped computer controlled ignition.
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Post by ludwigvonbasher on Mar 5, 2007 17:08:45 GMT -5
mrriggs, are you installing this set up on the same bike you used the HEI module on with the Toyota ignition? Is this module replacing the HEI or is it used along with it? I am very interested in both set ups and would appreciate any photos or documentation on the complete set up.
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Post by mrriggs on Mar 8, 2007 23:13:31 GMT -5
mrriggs, are you installing this set up on the same bike you used the HEI module on with the Toyota ignition? Is this module replacing the HEI or is it used along with it? I am very interested in both set ups and would appreciate any photos or documentation on the complete set up. Nope, completely different bike. I used the HEI to replace the points on my tracker, the banshee setup is going on the bobber to replace the wasted alternator. No progress to report, still trying to find a Banshee stator. There are a hundred of them out there but I don't want to spend over $50 for a used stock one. Haven't even looked in the last couple weeks. The transmission went out on the family van last week so all my money [and then some] went to replacing it. |
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Post by ludwigvonbasher on Mar 8, 2007 23:24:45 GMT -5
In your opinion, would the two systems work together on the same bike? I am building a 79' that I would like to go with no battery if possible but I could live with the NiCad set-up you show on the tracker.
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Post by mrriggs on Mar 9, 2007 14:53:42 GMT -5
In your opinion, would the two systems work together on the same bike? I am building a 79' that I would like to go with no battery if possible but I could live with the NiCad set-up you show on the tracker. If you had an aftermarket 200w rotor and stator you could produce enough juice to drive the HEI but it would be more work than it's worth. The CDI box will run off the high voltage output of the stock Banshee stator, doesn't require mechanical advance, and costs the same as an HEI module. The two different systems are just that, two different systems. If it all works out the Banshee would be a very simple setup. All you would need to make the motor run is the Banshee rotor and stator, the Honda clone CDI, and a dual output coil. Add a voltage regulator to run lights. I'm trying this setup on the bobber for two reasons; simplicity, and because the stock alternator was toast. The RC car battery setup is more complicated but can be put together innexpensively, especially if you already have many of the parts. For it to work you need a good stock alternator, a rectifier and regulator, an RC car battery, HEI module, dual output coil, mechanical advance mechanism, Toyota distributor pickup and reluctor, a relay, resistor, diode, and ignition switch. If the battery dies it won't start but on the plus side if the charging system dies you will have some juice in the battery to get you home. You could even carry a fully charged spare in your pocket to extend range in that case. Another plus is the availability of parts, GM ignition parts can be found at any autoparts store, and RC car batteries at any Radioshack or toy store. |
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Post by ludwigvonbasher on Mar 9, 2007 15:06:30 GMT -5
OK, I need to run the Banshee rotor/stator because my charging system is fride and I don't like the set-up anyway. What do I need for the ignition set-up? Will the Toyota set-up work with the Banshee gen.? I'm not very good with electric so I hope I don't frustrate you with all these questions. I just want something that is easily replaced if I do break down on the road, as you said, most of the parts can be had at local autoparts houses. The battery may even be found @ Wham-o-Lart. Any info and diagrams you could post would be very helpfull. Thanks.
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Post by mrriggs on Mar 9, 2007 18:00:44 GMT -5
When I get the Banshee setup working I'll post schematics and instructions. Like I said though, you shouldn't need anything more than the Banshee rotor and stator, CDI box, and dual output coil. Oh, and a kill button. I'm not even going to have an ignition switch on my bike, just jump on and kick it to get it going, lights come on when the motor is running, hit the kill button to shut everything off.
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Post by ludwigvonbasher on Mar 9, 2007 18:32:08 GMT -5
What will you use in place of points? Do youneed anything under there with this set-up?
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Post by mrriggs on Mar 10, 2007 10:54:33 GMT -5
What will you use in place of points? Do youneed anything under there with this set-up? The Banshee stator has an ignition trigger pickup which tells the CDI when to fire. |
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Post by ludwigvonbasher on Mar 11, 2007 18:57:43 GMT -5
Cool then I won't need anything under the points caps? Will this work with no battery?
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Post by Six-Five-O on Mar 11, 2007 20:43:29 GMT -5
Yep..It's a magneto
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Post by 17mmspanner on Mar 21, 2007 20:34:58 GMT -5
Anyone going this route should take a look at this - www.xs650.org.au/Alternators.htm From everything I've read it looks like pretty much all the 250cc and up Yam 2-stroke twins used the same generator, certainly up to the 1st gen water cooleds . Over hear they were RDs - the Banshees were a goth rock band! The page doesn't include details for sorting the woodruff key but I also copied this from somewhere: 'When adapting any alternator onto your 650, the critical thing is that the Morse taper on the end of the crank is the same and the RD's is. However, because the RD has a crank that's diameter is a little smaller than the 650's, the rotor won't go all the way onto the crank. Don't panic, it goes on far enough. The woodruff key is also slightly thicker on the RD and the round side has a slightly different radius. You must use the key from the RD, not the XS. Take both keys to a machine shop and tell them you want the thicker one ground to the dimensions of the thinner one, all but for 2mm along the straight edge with half the difference coming off both sides, not all of it on one side. Also, have the radius of the round side of the thicker key matched to that of the thinner. The machinist will probably do that first.' I like the idea of a perm maganet set-up but I've just fixed up my XS with a new wiring loom and a solid state regulator/rectifier. So it one for the future 17mm Spanner |
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