pdxs
New Member
Posts: 34
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Post by pdxs on Aug 1, 2007 21:52:48 GMT -5
the 200 watt stator hasn't solve my problem and it still won't charge with the lights on. It is better but now what I had hoped. I am running the stock xs points and coils and with only the ignition on the bike drains at idle and will start to charge around 1500 rpms. with the lights on this changes to about 4500 rpms, no good. Headlight is a standard h4 55/60 watt. flywheel is in good shape (off a 2005 banshee). right now I am not using the high voltage output of the stator (meant to drive the banshee cdi)
questions:
how much juice do the stock coils use?
anybody know of some coils that would run off the stock points and the banshee cdi output? I could use old style vespa coils but they are not the most reliable...
would it be possible to rig a headlight to run off that output(without rewinding)?
would I be any better off ditching the battery completely and changing the stator back to AC? will the coils work that way?
any other ideas, work arounds?
The good news is the bike runs super. the new engine has some real grunt. I just wish I could get this resolved so I can take it more than a few miles out...
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pdxs
New Member
Posts: 34
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Post by pdxs on Aug 5, 2007 18:21:04 GMT -5
i may have jumped the gun a little and read into the numbers too much. My battery tester was designed for cars so of course it thinks my bikes system is weak. I just spent the last hour putting around the neighborhood with all the lights on and my little 4 amp battery is still at full charge. Gonna shake it down this next week and see if it leaves me stranded again...
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 5, 2007 18:34:42 GMT -5
What were you using to test it? An ammeter would tell you quickly if the battery is charging or discharging. A volt meter accross the battery terminals can tell you a lot too. If your battery voltage is going over 13 volts then you have juice going into the battery.
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pdxs
New Member
Posts: 34
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Post by pdxs on Aug 5, 2007 19:47:05 GMT -5
I was using one of those cheap alternator testers. it has a little led tree for alternator output and battery voltage. I had it taped to the tank as kind of and early warning device. I need to get a better volt meter... the one I have only has scales of 10 V and 50 volts and up so getting an accurate reading is hard. I haven't seen the voltage go under 12 yet so I am keeping my fingers crossed...
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Post by CaptDan on Aug 16, 2007 11:02:49 GMT -5
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Post by Burns on Aug 16, 2007 15:46:54 GMT -5
No doubt about it. And since the stock replacement parts are pretty pricey there is a probably a profit margin that is competitive with the stock stuff. There's one guy that put a Moto Guzi unit in the stock location; stator/flywheel weight about the same. I touched base with him a couple of weeks ago wondering if his set-up survived the heat and vibes of that location and he report no problemo with 2 plus years on it. So--- the bits and pieces are available off the shelf. Somebody SHOULD market this up-grade.
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Post by skr00zloose on Aug 24, 2007 12:52:44 GMT -5
pdxs,
so, let me see if i have this right, you have the banshee setup, with the high voltage lead (running a regulator or regulator/rectifier??) running the stock points AND the lighting? just curious as to how you have it wired. are you running the bike a/c or d/c?
i'm considering trying this out on my chop to be able to get rid of the battery, and end my never ending battle with crappy XS charging rotors.
kinda curious as to whether a stock banshee stator would make enough juice to run the stock points and a headlight/tail light without any backup battery.
mind giving me a rundown on how yours is wired? think a stock stator will run a bare minimum electrical system? i only ask b/c i can get stock parts cheap, and would rather not spend needless money on a 200w stator if i don't need it.
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pdxs
New Member
Posts: 34
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Post by pdxs on Aug 24, 2007 19:49:56 GMT -5
right now I am running a dc setup with the high voltage disconnected. I havn't found any coils that trigger reliably off the high voltage. to run totally batteryless you will need coils that run off the high voltage. you could probably do it with the stock coils if you had a decent capacitor. The stock banshee setup puts out very little power though and the problem is with the lights on the coils cant charge and the bike sputters and dies. It may work with an older 30 watt headlight and LEDs everywhere else.
I think I have my bike straightened out now. I have LEDs in the taillight and rear blinkers. I have 10 watt bulbs in the front blinkers so that the flasher unit still works correctly. I am still running the 60 watt front light which I leave off until dark. I am planning to add a low watt or LED running light in the headlight reflector.
This sounded like a good Idea to begin with but I wouldn't go this route again. I think the rz350/euro rd350 stator would be better or just buy the chech kit.
the biggest problem is that the banshee system was designed for a 2 stroke. they idle much higher and spend more time at high rpm. the xs just dosn't spin fast enough to make it charge
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Post by CaptDan on Aug 24, 2007 22:33:22 GMT -5
It seems like the weak alternator output at low revs is a problem for the Banshee as well, that’s why these kits are being offered... cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Banshee-95-06-200W-Ricky-Stator-Flywheel-Kit_W0QQitemZ330159327460QQihZ014QQcategoryZ43976QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem- Adjustable Timing Plate. - Charging/Lighting Coils. Output of 200 watts (stock output only 85 watts). - Source Coils - Pickup Coil - Flywheel has stronger magnets than the stock. - Lights will run better in the lower RPM's (less dimming). The XS650 would not need the adjustable timing plate or pickup coil because the ignition is triggered off the cam, right? The source coil would power the ignition, separate from the charging/lighting coils, so you could kick-start the bike without a battery. Let’s see… You get an adapter plate from Terry Gliddon in Australia, a Banshee High-Output PM stator and rotor kit, and the only thing missing would be a wiring pigtail to match up all the electrical connections (and maybe a Boyer-Bransden "battery eliminator" if desired). Am I making this sound too easy? I know lots of people have worked long and hard on this type of conversion, some with great success, some less so. I can’t help but think that if all the bits of knowledge were pulled together (especially the wiring puzzle), a rock-solid, step-by-step solution would emerge. This in turn could become a conversion kit that would be a “must-have” upgrade for the long-running XS650. Between pdxs, David Rayner and others, we’re so close! What can I do to help make this happen? |
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pdxs
New Member
Posts: 34
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Post by pdxs on Aug 25, 2007 14:23:02 GMT -5
that is the stator I am running. I havn't found any coils that work reliably with the xs points and the banshee source coils.
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Post by CaptDan on Aug 26, 2007 20:15:01 GMT -5
that is the stator I am running. I havn't found any coils that work reliably with the xs points and the banshee source coils. That has to be frustrating.  Plus, there is a DC coil as well? I guess I need to get educated with this whole XS electronics thing. Thanks for your persistence on this conversion. I spent a year in Portland - Has this been another fantastic Oregon summer, weather-wise? |
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 27, 2007 1:21:18 GMT -5
pdxs- If you want to find out what it takes to get a CDI setup working you can roll up to my place one of these weekends. My offer still stands, I'll trade the CDI parts and labor for one of your adapter plates. All we really need to figure out is what bias voltage to apply to the Toyota pickup so it can triger the CDI box.
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Post by davidrayner on Aug 27, 2007 17:36:23 GMT -5
Captdan,
We're not "so close", we're already there and have been for 3 or 4 years.
Dave R.
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Post by CaptDan on Aug 31, 2007 7:10:58 GMT -5
Captdan, We're not "so close", we're already there and have been for 3 or 4 years. Dave R. I guess what I'm saying is that we're so close to having a concise process with specific parts - a "kit" that any XS650 owner, with a minimum of skill and downtime, could assemble and install. No special machining, no ambiguous wiring, no time-consuming troubleshooting, just install and enjoy. Though others have made the PM alternator work, until we reach a point where even the “electrically-challenged” (like me) can make the swap, in my mind we’re still only “close”. To that end, I’m compiling a list of questions to help establish exact parts and processes, aimed at creating a near off-the-shelf PM alternator swap. I’ll be sending it out to all the trailblazers in hopes of distilling all their knowledge into one place. Hopefully one day there will be an “XS650 Permanent Magnet Alternator Swap for Dummies”, and no 650 owner will ever have to be sidelined by their charging system again! |
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Post by CaptDan on Aug 31, 2007 13:14:26 GMT -5
The left side crank half used on the RZ-350 and the Banshee do use the same part number. The wood-drift key is also the same -90280-05033-00. However, the RZ-350 used 4 part numbers on the rotor, starting with 51L-85510-50-00 29L-81410-50-00 51L-85550-50-00 29L-81450-50-00 The Banshee rotors are part # 3GG-85550-00-00 2GU-85550-50-00 I'm not sure if this casts any light [no pun intended] on the subject, but this thread is interesting. For what it's worth, RM Stators (www.rmstator.com), and Ricky Stators (www.rickystator.com) list one rotor for all years of the Banshee. |
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