Hi Dave, you're correct re. the fuse. Re. clearance, if you're not getting a "no-pass" at .009" I don't think you need to worry that the snug fit at .008" is too tight; the flat gauge is having to conform to a curved surface, so the fit probably feels tighter than the actual gap. If there's a lot of difference as you check clearance at the same point on the stator at different crank positions, you might want to pull the rotor and set up a dial indicator on the crank to inspect runout and find out whether the variation is coming from there (a potential problem if it's excessive) or from the rotor itself. But it sounds as though the variation you're getting is less than .001" if I'm reading you right, and that shouldn't be cause for any concern at all.
Post by islanddave on Sept 11, 2009 22:11:37 GMT -5
Ok thanks Griz. That is what I thought about the air gap. I was just a little cautious because I screwed up my rotor and stator before when the rotor came into contact with the stator. (this was my fault!) and I did not want a repeat performance of this again! Yes you are reading me right about the .008" and .009" clearance. I can get both these feeler gauges in at the 12 o'clock position. I just wondered if I needed exactly .008" al the way around. Just over thinking again!! ;D
Thanks for the help, I hope I am done worrying about charging systems!
Post by islanddave on Sept 14, 2009 14:39:04 GMT -5
Well I hooked up my Sparx and I am still not charging. I am almost sure that the battery is at fault because of what has been said about how important the initial charging procedures for the batteries are for the Sparx system to work. I can get about 13.8 volts across the battery terminals if I rev the snot out of the bike, but at idle the volts just keep dropping.
air gap set black to battery ground red to battery positive through a 20 amp fuse (fuse good) three wires from reg/rec to the stator assembly
Maybe I will just buy another battery. I am running a boyer, led taillight, headlight, no signals, and kick only. I am using the three phase Sparx......what is the smallest battery that I could use?
I'm no expert on electrics, Dave, and I hope wiser heads will jump in and correct me if I'm wrong; but given the vulnerability of PM system reg/rec units to failure due to overheating the built-in heat sink, I suspect it would be best to use the OEM battery.
Thanks ski, that's great information; but here's the issue. With the OEM alternator the reg/rec kicks out power to the alternator field coil so the alternator stops charging, then kicks it in again when voltage drops. With a permanent magnet system this doesn't happen; the alternator charges all the time, and the reg/rec controls battery voltage by dumping excess current to a heat sink. Under certain conditions this can be a problem; for example in prolonged high speed running, the reg/rec can overheat and fry components, usually rectifier diodes, unless there's enough load on the electrics to help out. The first you know of it is when the battery starts to boil because it's being hit with some unrectified AC. My worry would be that the small battery may cause too much load on the reg/rec; maybe a valid concern, maybe not.
You know, at first with my first xs 650 I did the kick only along with tail/brake and head light and used a very small battery that seemed to be twelve volts, it's appearance looked that way. After about a few batteries I finally discovered my regulator was very bad causing my system to over and under charge making any battery there puke a lot, I was still learning about this chop so I knew it would eventually be figured out. And it did, I just don't like the charging system when it requires a set of brushes and all so delicate. I am very used to hondas, this is my fav chop and it does great, if I teach myslf to tig weld and weld aluminum it is on then to a permo magnet charger
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5