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Post by summers420us on Nov 20, 2006 9:05:47 GMT -5
Having some issues with the last part of my bober project and could really use some help getting over this last leg of the project. I haven't figure out how to hook up the alternator and SVR (Solid State Voltage Regulator Rectifier).... Specs of what I got: 1975 XS motor with standard alternator loom that has 7 wires: 1 yellow (by itself), 3 Whites, 1 Brown (could be Black), 1 Green and 1 Blue. The Solid State Rectifier Regulator from MikesXS.com Part #24-2089 that has 7 wires: 1 Red, 1 Green, 1 Orange, 1 Brown Blue - corrected, and 3 Yellows. www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-electrical.php?category_id=2.4I know the Yellows and Whites all connect together, and the Red goes to the battery, but past that I am stumped. Anyhow, here is what I have for a wiring diagram so far: - Diagram removed because it was incorrect -Note that I am not sure how to connect the rest of the alternator and SVR so that has been left undone If you see anything else wrong with my Diagram please let me know. Also the remote switch is a Key Fob type so that there are no switches visible on the bike. |
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Post by Curly on Nov 20, 2006 14:18:33 GMT -5
If those are the instructions from Mike's that you posted it looks like he has the brown to brown, green to orange and blue to green. The green is the power feed to the positive brush on old models like yours. That's easy to test with a voltmeter. The brown is probably black in which case it's a ground. The blue out of the stator plug is just the neutral switch wire. That has me a little puzzled as to why it runs through the reg/rect assembly. Anybody out there wired one of these? The yellow is for the safety relay which you aren't using so no connection there as indicated.
Curly
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Post by barber1303 on Nov 20, 2006 21:05:40 GMT -5
According to the instructions I have from Rick's Motorsports Electric, Inc. (which is where I think Mike's gets their Reg/Rect units); the 3 yellows go to the stator windings, the red goes to battery +, the green goes to ground, the orange goes to the brush (field coil), and the blue goes to 12V switched.
So, to install it in the XS650:
R/R yellow goes to XS650 white (3x)
R/R red goes to XS650 red
R/R green goes to XS650 black (or frame/battery ground)
R/R orange goes to XS650 green
R/R Blue goes to XS650 brown
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Post by summers420us on Nov 21, 2006 13:28:45 GMT -5
[glow=red,2,300] Fisrt off... sorry I botched the colors in my previous post... there is no Brown on the Regulator/Rectifier, it is actually Blue
Curly and Barber1303 thanks for the help! Just a few more questions if you don't mind...[/glow] For purposes of my questions I will use the following:
R/R = wire comes from Regulator/Rectifier
AL = wire comes from Alternator LoomBy the way Curly, I have no instructions from Mikes (that make sense anyway). The wiring diagram is one I have made myself, so if you see any issues with it let me know.1. Since I am not using the neutral switch, is it OK to just tape off the AL-Blue and not use it at all? 2. Ok... so I got the AL-Whites to the R/R-Yellows and that is correct. Please confirm. 3. Can I run R/R-Red straight to the battery + ? Do I need a fuse or any type of switch between R/R-Red and battery + or is it hot all the time? 4. I will run the R/R-Green to frame ground. Please Confirm. 5. I will connect R/R-Orange to AL-Green. Please confirm. 6. Barber1303 states that the " blue goes to 12V switched", I think he is referring to the R/R-Blue... so should I send power to R/R-Blue from a point after my ignition switch? 7. Curly states that "The brown is probably black in which case it's a ground" I believe he is talking about the AL-Brown... so should I run the AL-Brown to Frame Ground? Using my best guess, I have put together a new schematic... Please let me know if you think this is correct. I know I am going to figure this out eventually....  Thanks again to everyone for your help. Once I got it all figured out I will cleanup my diagram and repost it for anyone that wants to make a simple, no frills, wiring harness. - Image Removed because it was incorrect - |
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Post by barber1303 on Nov 21, 2006 20:46:17 GMT -5
Summers,
My instructions are only valid if the part you have was made by Rick's Motorsports Electric, Inc. I don't know of any other manufacturer that makes type B reg/rect units with the same color wires, so this is probably a safe bet.
1. You do not need to hook up the neutral switch...it is for convenience only on your '75 model...but be careful to cap it off as it carries 12V when the ignition is on.
2. Yes, whites go to yellows
3. Yes, run the red wire to the "down stream" side of a 20A fuse connected to the + battery terminal.
4. The schmatic I have says green goes to battery ground, but if you've got the frame grounded properly, it shouldn't matter.
5. Orange goes to green wire, which is connected to the "ungrounded" brush.
6. The R/R blue needs to be connected to your one of your main 12V+ lines that becomes active when the key is switched on...usually a brown wire on classic Yamahas. This is the monitor line for the regulator. The regulator will use the voltage on this line to determine the charge condition of the battery. You'll want to verify that the voltage on this line is within a half a volt (or so) of battery voltage.
7. I believe the brown is a switched voltage line on the '75 model. You should connect this wire the the R/R Blue.
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Post by jeepurze on Nov 21, 2006 21:51:41 GMT -5
thats basically the one I used in the pic, two fuses one main one acc one brake switch no elect start. cant quit see the regrec wire colors mine is 78 with mikes regrec
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Post by summers420us on Nov 22, 2006 9:17:55 GMT -5
Ok then I think I finally got it!!!! I have not tested it yet, but I feel pretty good that this is correct.
I only have one concern. The AL-Brown...
If this is supposed to be hooked up to switched power... then what grounds the Alternator. Is it internally grounded?
Oh yeah... and is it ok to have a 10 amp switch down stream of a 20 amp fuse or will the fuse not protect the switch?
Everyone please take a close look at the diagram, and let me know if they think I finally got it.
- Image Removed because it was incorrect -
I would be glad to email it to anyone that requests it. Just send me a Personal Message with your email addy.
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Post by summers420us on Nov 27, 2006 7:48:02 GMT -5
Beuhler... Beuhler...
I know all the American's were enjoying their turkey induced comas over the long weekend, but I was really hoping someone would confirm my schematic before I test it and burn up a regulator or something stupid. ;-P
So how about that AL-Brown... Is it supposed to be hooked up to switched power and if so what grounds the Alternator?
Is it ok to have a 10 amp switch down stream of a 20 amp fuse?
Does the rest of the Schematic look OK?
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Post by grizld1 on Nov 27, 2006 23:01:21 GMT -5
Re. alternator ground: on your stock '75 alternator you'll notice that one of your brushes is grounded to the stator cover (don't hook power to the lead from that brush).
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bill
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by bill on Nov 28, 2006 0:29:46 GMT -5
Just to add to what grild1 is saying about the 76 stator... you must use an ungrounded brush holder with most SSVRRs.
In solid state regulation the rotor field is varied by supplying full battery voltage to the rotor via the AL-brown wire. Current through the rotor is then returned to the SSVRR via the Al-green wire where it is switched (on or off) to ground through the R/R-green wire to ground. This is why the rotor circuit (bush holder) must not be grounded.
Other than that, your wiring diagram will work. You would be able to get a little better starting voltage if you turn off the headlight when starting. You can do this by placing a switch in the headlight ground. That way the light will be off in both hi and low beam during starting. Bill.
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Post by summers420us on Nov 28, 2006 7:18:09 GMT -5
ok.... So let me get this straight: [glow=green,2,300]My schmatic is completely correct?[/glow] ;D [glow=red,2,300] But, since my Alternator is a 1975 model, I will need to replace the brush holder with an ungrounded version?[/glow]  Also, a freind of mine questioned the non-switched red lead connecting battery and reg/rec. They thought that this may drain the battery and possibly damage the reg/rec.  [glow=blue,2,300] Can someone confirm that the red lead connecting reg/rec directly to battery positive should not be switched and should remain hot all the time even when the bike is not running and is parked?[/glow] |
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Post by grizld1 on Nov 28, 2006 10:46:23 GMT -5
Review barber1303's post. The OEM solid state unit reg/rec (1980 and later) operated with 2 insulated brushes and a holder with 2 insulating extrusions on the brush holder. Your reg/rec (Mike's 24-2089) is set up to operate with the earlier alternator with a grounded brush. Barber1303 is correct that brown in the stock '75 harness is switched power. I think your last schematic based on barber1303's instructions is correct for your reg/rec; in the original wiring for the early alternator the grounded brush lead runs to harness ground, though it's already engine-grounded on the stator cover--insurance maybe? (Sorry I can't be more helpful--I went a different route with the conversion, cutting my '77 stator cover to accept a late brush holder and using a late OEM reg/rec.)
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Post by Curly on Nov 28, 2006 12:38:38 GMT -5
I don't have any experience with aftermarket reg/rec assemblies so I don't know if you're right or not. One of your brushes grounds directly to the generator housing so it won't need a connection. If the regulator you have is designed to replace the original mechanical regulator without modification then the other brush will need power from the regulator.
Curly.
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bill
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by bill on Nov 28, 2006 13:09:46 GMT -5
I stand corrected. If this SSVR is setup for the earlier grounded alternator when you're OK.
In you're diagram you do not actually have a fuse protecting the alterantor to the load. Suggest you place one ahead of the relay. 15 amp should provide the needed short circuit protection.
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Post by summers420us on Nov 28, 2006 13:59:08 GMT -5
Good catch on the fuse. I really just wanted one fuse, but I guess that is not going to happen.
So sounds like concensus is that (besides the missing fuse) the schmatic is good to go.
Lastly, is it OK to have a 10 amp switch protected by a 20 amp fuse, or am I looking at 3 fuses... a 20, a 10, and a 15...
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[glow=blue,2,300]Can someone confirm that the red lead connecting reg/rec directly to battery positive should not be switched and should remain hot all the time even when the bike is not running and is parked?[/glow]