Post by summers420us on Nov 20, 2006 9:05:47 GMT -5
Having some issues with the last part of my bober project and could really use some help getting over this last leg of the project. I haven't figure out how to hook up the alternator and SVR (Solid State Voltage Regulator Rectifier)....
Specs of what I got:
1975 XS motor with standard alternator loom that has 7 wires: 1 yellow (by itself), 3 Whites, 1 Brown (could be Black), 1 Green and 1 Blue.
If those are the instructions from Mike's that you posted it looks like he has the brown to brown, green to orange and blue to green. The green is the power feed to the positive brush on old models like yours. That's easy to test with a voltmeter. The brown is probably black in which case it's a ground. The blue out of the stator plug is just the neutral switch wire. That has me a little puzzled as to why it runs through the reg/rect assembly. Anybody out there wired one of these? The yellow is for the safety relay which you aren't using so no connection there as indicated.
Post by barber1303 on Nov 20, 2006 21:05:40 GMT -5
According to the instructions I have from Rick's Motorsports Electric, Inc. (which is where I think Mike's gets their Reg/Rect units); the 3 yellows go to the stator windings, the red goes to battery +, the green goes to ground, the orange goes to the brush (field coil), and the blue goes to 12V switched.
So, to install it in the XS650:
R/R yellow goes to XS650 white (3x) R/R red goes to XS650 red R/R green goes to XS650 black (or frame/battery ground) R/R orange goes to XS650 green R/R Blue goes to XS650 brown
Post by barber1303 on Nov 21, 2006 20:46:17 GMT -5
My instructions are only valid if the part you have was made by Rick's Motorsports Electric, Inc. I don't know of any other manufacturer that makes type B reg/rect units with the same color wires, so this is probably a safe bet.
1. You do not need to hook up the neutral switch...it is for convenience only on your '75 model...but be careful to cap it off as it carries 12V when the ignition is on.
2. Yes, whites go to yellows
3. Yes, run the red wire to the "down stream" side of a 20A fuse connected to the + battery terminal.
4. The schmatic I have says green goes to battery ground, but if you've got the frame grounded properly, it shouldn't matter.
5. Orange goes to green wire, which is connected to the "ungrounded" brush.
6. The R/R blue needs to be connected to your one of your main 12V+ lines that becomes active when the key is switched on...usually a brown wire on classic Yamahas. This is the monitor line for the regulator. The regulator will use the voltage on this line to determine the charge condition of the battery. You'll want to verify that the voltage on this line is within a half a volt (or so) of battery voltage.
7. I believe the brown is a switched voltage line on the '75 model. You should connect this wire the the R/R Blue.
Last Edit: Nov 21, 2006 20:48:11 GMT -5 by barber1303
Post by summers420us on Nov 27, 2006 7:48:02 GMT -5
I know all the American's were enjoying their turkey induced comas over the long weekend, but I was really hoping someone would confirm my schematic before I test it and burn up a regulator or something stupid. ;-P
So how about that AL-Brown... Is it supposed to be hooked up to switched power and if so what grounds the Alternator?
Is it ok to have a 10 amp switch down stream of a 20 amp fuse?
Just to add to what grild1 is saying about the 76 stator... you must use an ungrounded brush holder with most SSVRRs.
In solid state regulation the rotor field is varied by supplying full battery voltage to the rotor via the AL-brown wire. Current through the rotor is then returned to the SSVRR via the Al-green wire where it is switched (on or off) to ground through the R/R-green wire to ground. This is why the rotor circuit (bush holder) must not be grounded.
Other than that, your wiring diagram will work. You would be able to get a little better starting voltage if you turn off the headlight when starting. You can do this by placing a switch in the headlight ground. That way the light will be off in both hi and low beam during starting. Bill.
Post by summers420us on Nov 28, 2006 7:18:09 GMT -5
So let me get this straight: [glow=green,2,300]My schmatic is completely correct?[/glow] ;D
[glow=red,2,300]But, since my Alternator is a 1975 model, I will need to replace the brush holder with an ungrounded version?[/glow]
Also, a freind of mine questioned the non-switched red lead connecting battery and reg/rec. They thought that this may drain the battery and possibly damage the reg/rec. [glow=blue,2,300]Can someone confirm that the red lead connecting reg/rec directly to battery positive should not be switched and should remain hot all the time even when the bike is not running and is parked?[/glow]
Review barber1303's post. The OEM solid state unit reg/rec (1980 and later) operated with 2 insulated brushes and a holder with 2 insulating extrusions on the brush holder. Your reg/rec (Mike's 24-2089) is set up to operate with the earlier alternator with a grounded brush. Barber1303 is correct that brown in the stock '75 harness is switched power. I think your last schematic based on barber1303's instructions is correct for your reg/rec; in the original wiring for the early alternator the grounded brush lead runs to harness ground, though it's already engine-grounded on the stator cover--insurance maybe? (Sorry I can't be more helpful--I went a different route with the conversion, cutting my '77 stator cover to accept a late brush holder and using a late OEM reg/rec.)
I don't have any experience with aftermarket reg/rec assemblies so I don't know if you're right or not. One of your brushes grounds directly to the generator housing so it won't need a connection. If the regulator you have is designed to replace the original mechanical regulator without modification then the other brush will need power from the regulator.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5