LED Topic I ran into this site for LEDs on another board. superbrightleds.com I was looking for bright leds for my street tracker . I just bought a new cargo trailer and it has all led lighting and those suckers are bright!!! Am going to put them in the cutoff seat frame tubes. Will let you know how they pan out. Dwayne
I would keep the 20 amp fuse to the battery as charging currents can be fairly high until the battery reachs full charge. You could use a single fuse for the ign/lighting but be aware that if the lighting has a problem and blows the fuse you lose your ignition as well. I would recommend sizing the fuse to the ignition/lighting at about 150% larger than the actual load. Try a 15 amp and size up to 20amp fuse if required. There is real benefit in having a separate ignition fuse as discussed earlier.
The 10 amp rating of the switch is based on the arching the contacts are rated to handle over its normal life span. So the 15 or 20 amp fuse will be provide basic protection for it.
A longer explaination for the above recommendation is as follows: A fuse should ideally provide two types of protection: overcurrent and overload protection. Overcurrent protection is basically short circuit protection of the circuit wiring and devices against high currents produced when a shorts occurs (melted insulation and/or conductor damage). In an overload protection senario the fuse would blow if the circuit were subject to long periods of current exceeding the wire rating (approximately 125% higher currents). With the very low currents in a motorcycle circuit overload protection is difficult to obtain accurately so overcurrent protection is usually what is provided by the manufacturers. Hope this makes sense, Bill.
Post by barber1303 on Nov 28, 2006 20:43:17 GMT -5
Upon reflecting on this for a bit, I think you'll want to move your red wire on reg/rect to the battery side of the fuse (i.e. connect the red R/R wire directly to the + battery terminal). Once the engine is started, all current for the bike will be delivered through that red wire (i.e. current for running the bike as well as charging the battery). If the red wire is on the "bike" side of the fuse, the fuse essentially only protects the battery...
If you look here at the stock wiring diagram for the '75, you'll see the stock set-up runs that way:
On your question about switching, the red wire to the battery should NOT be switched...the diodes in the rectifier prevent any current from flowing the opposite direction and draining the battery. You don't want full "charging" current running through a switch anyway.
Last Edit: Nov 28, 2006 20:44:54 GMT -5 by barber1303
Post by summers420us on Nov 29, 2006 8:52:10 GMT -5
[glow=red,2,300]THIS FORUM ROCKS!!! You guys have been a great help! Absolutely priceless! Thank you! Thank you![/glow]
Thanks to all of you, I believe that I have consolidated your knowledge and comments into a working schematic that is pretty simple. I will try it out and see if I can avoid burnt wires and still get a charge back to the battery!
Seriously though I think we got it now, but I am going to give you guys a chance to review and make comments before I actually try it out. The idea is simplicity, so if you see where I can improve, please let me know.
Please note that I have gone back through my posts and removed all previous versions of the diagram in an effort to reduce confusion for anyone else that may be trying to use the diagram.
Post by summers420us on Jan 14, 2007 19:53:29 GMT -5
Finally got a chance to try the schematic and [glow=red,2,300]!POP! !POP! !POP![/glow] I kept blowing fuses... then I figured it out. The BROWN/BLACK wire in the Alternator Loom Plug is grounded. I disconnected it from any power source and I taped it off... Now she seems to work flawlessly. I am getting 14.6 volts back to the battery when the bike is idling. ;D I hope that is not too much.
Now here is my new schematic...
my only question is should I tie this BROWN/BLACK in the Alternator Loom directly to a frame ground or battery negative versus just taping it off?
Will this work for a 77 ? i'm trying to get my electrics down to bare minimum and i don't know what i need to keep or able to toss out.
all i have is ignition, brake, headlight, alt.
headlight and brake light run straight off ignition switch (always has since last owner changed it to that)
is it wise to get the reg/rec. from mikes, or can i use the two, seperate stocks? (which would save me money right now) i know nothing about electrics, so i've basically just left the blinker wires to the side right now and everything else i haven't / won't use.
i should probably re-wire, but i'm using the stock wire harness.
Stick with the separate stock voltage regulator and rectifier if you can. They're pretty robust and could save you a lot of $$ and misery down the road.
What do you mean when you say the brake light runs straight off the ignition switch? Do you mean tail light or brake light? Does your brake light still function normally...if not I'd fix it ASAP...very dangerous.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5