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Post by burge on Nov 28, 2006 16:29:33 GMT -5
LED Topic
I ran into this site for LEDs on another board. superbrightleds.com I was looking for bright leds for my street tracker . I just bought a new cargo trailer and it has all led lighting and those suckers are bright!!! Am going to put them in the cutoff seat frame tubes. Will let you know how they pan out.
Dwayne
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bill
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by bill on Nov 28, 2006 17:04:18 GMT -5
I would keep the 20 amp fuse to the battery as charging currents can be fairly high until the battery reachs full charge. You could use a single fuse for the ign/lighting but be aware that if the lighting has a problem and blows the fuse you lose your ignition as well. I would recommend sizing the fuse to the ignition/lighting at about 150% larger than the actual load. Try a 15 amp and size up to 20amp fuse if required. There is real benefit in having a separate ignition fuse as discussed earlier.
The 10 amp rating of the switch is based on the arching the contacts are rated to handle over its normal life span. So the 15 or 20 amp fuse will be provide basic protection for it.
A longer explaination for the above recommendation is as follows:
A fuse should ideally provide two types of protection: overcurrent and overload protection. Overcurrent protection is basically short circuit protection of the circuit wiring and devices against high currents produced when a shorts occurs (melted insulation and/or conductor damage). In an overload protection senario the fuse would blow if the circuit were subject to long periods of current exceeding the wire rating (approximately 125% higher currents). With the very low currents in a motorcycle circuit overload protection is difficult to obtain accurately so overcurrent protection is usually what is provided by the manufacturers. Hope this makes sense, Bill.
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Post by barber1303 on Nov 28, 2006 20:43:17 GMT -5
Upon reflecting on this for a bit, I think you'll want to move your red wire on reg/rect to the battery side of the fuse (i.e. connect the red R/R wire directly to the + battery terminal). Once the engine is started, all current for the bike will be delivered through that red wire (i.e. current for running the bike as well as charging the battery). If the red wire is on the "bike" side of the fuse, the fuse essentially only protects the battery... If you look here at the stock wiring diagram for the '75, you'll see the stock set-up runs that way: www.650motorcycles.com/75XS650Bbob.jpgOn your question about switching, the red wire to the battery should NOT be switched...the diodes in the rectifier prevent any current from flowing the opposite direction and draining the battery. You don't want full "charging" current running through a switch anyway. |
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Post by summers420us on Nov 29, 2006 8:52:10 GMT -5
[glow=red,2,300]THIS FORUM ROCKS!!! You guys have been a great help! Absolutely priceless! Thank you! Thank you![/glow]Thanks to all of you, I believe that I have consolidated your knowledge and comments into a working schematic that is pretty simple. I will try it out and see if I can avoid burnt wires and still get a charge back to the battery!  Seriously though I think we got it now, but I am going to give you guys a chance to review and make comments before I actually try it out. The idea is simplicity, so if you see where I can improve, please let me know. Please note that I have gone back through my posts and removed all previous versions of the diagram in an effort to reduce confusion for anyone else that may be trying to use the diagram. or use this: 
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bill
Junior Member
Posts: 81
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Post by bill on Nov 29, 2006 12:06:28 GMT -5
Don't worry about the 10amp switch, it has adequate protection and isn't subject to any real load. Let us kanow how it works out.
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Post by summers420us on Jan 14, 2007 19:53:29 GMT -5
Finally got a chance to try the schematic and [glow=red,2,300]!POP! !POP! !POP![/glow] I kept blowing fuses...  then I figured it out. The BROWN/BLACK wire in the Alternator Loom Plug is grounded. I disconnected it from any power source and I taped it off... Now she seems to work flawlessly. I am getting 14.6 volts back to the battery when the bike is idling. ;D I hope that is not too much. Now here is my new schematic... my only question is should I tie this BROWN/BLACK in the Alternator Loom directly to a frame ground or battery negative versus just taping it off? |
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Lejusti
New Member
'77 Bobber Project
Posts: 45
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Post by Lejusti on Apr 13, 2007 9:35:08 GMT -5
Will this work for a 77 ? i'm trying to get my electrics down to bare minimum and i don't know what i need to keep or able to toss out.
all i have is ignition, brake, headlight, alt.
headlight and brake light run straight off ignition switch (always has since last owner changed it to that)
is it wise to get the reg/rec. from mikes, or can i use the two, seperate stocks? (which would save me money right now)
i know nothing about electrics, so i've basically just left the blinker wires to the side right now and everything else i haven't / won't use.
i should probably re-wire, but i'm using the stock wire harness.
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Post by barber1303 on Apr 13, 2007 9:56:04 GMT -5
Stick with the separate stock voltage regulator and rectifier if you can. They're pretty robust and could save you a lot of $$ and misery down the road.
What do you mean when you say the brake light runs straight off the ignition switch? Do you mean tail light or brake light? Does your brake light still function normally...if not I'd fix it ASAP...very dangerous.
Chris
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smokenjoe
New Member
pixel challenged
Posts: 41
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Post by smokenjoe on Jun 8, 2009 20:10:40 GMT -5
I see that the latest version of the diagram is no longer available. By any chance does anybody have a copy some where?
My 1977 bobber with the ssrr from Mikes is giving me fits.
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smokenjoe
New Member
pixel challenged
Posts: 41
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Post by smokenjoe on Jun 9, 2009 12:13:50 GMT -5
Please refer tp reply#23 just above this one!
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smokenjoe
New Member
pixel challenged
Posts: 41
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Post by smokenjoe on Jun 12, 2009 13:59:03 GMT -5
I see that the latest version of the diagram is no longer available. By any chance does anybody have a copy some where? My 1977 bobber with the ssrr from Mikes is giving me fits. Any help would be mighty appreciated. |
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bigjimmyw13
Full Member
Ride hard, Ride fast.
Posts: 132
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Post by bigjimmyw13 on Oct 12, 2009 14:33:29 GMT -5
I am in agreement. I searched for this thread and I'd hate to start another one. I fear the mods would probably delete it. However, I am looking for a final diagram for this wiring system.
All I need is the charging system, front light and brake light. No turn signals or starter. Kick start is fine by me.
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then I figured it out. The BROWN/BLACK wire in the Alternator Loom Plug is grounded. I disconnected it from any power source and I taped it off... Now she seems to work flawlessly. I am getting 14.6 volts back to the battery when the bike is idling. ;D I hope that is not too much.