itch
New Member
Posts: 1
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Post by itch on Aug 22, 2007 12:30:22 GMT -5
Woohoo! Thanks, pamcopete! Just built mine this morning. Works like a charm. It turns out street signs are a great source of 1/8" aluminum, by the way...
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Post by xsleo on Dec 10, 2007 0:03:33 GMT -5
i have been tagging along on this thread, right now my mechanical regulator and stock rectfier on my 75 are working fine. if they fail i have the reg/rect out of the 82 seca donor bike. one thing i have thought about is if you have a reg/rect that is burnt out could you clean out the epoxy and internals and use the case to mount the r/s rectifiers in? that would give plenty of heat sink and a stock type mounting.
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Post by laotzuistruth on Dec 21, 2007 10:56:37 GMT -5
I just finished wiring up my rectifier last night. I was careful when soldering the unit, and soldered the wires right on the very tip of the bayonnets, and I feel pretty comfortable I didn't get the units too hot. To be safe I wish I put some hemostats on them each at a time, but we shall see. Question. Is it really necessary to run a black wire all the way to the negative side of the battery? Please if someone can give me some info on this, I actually made my heat sink template the same size as the originial plate for the rectifier which is about 1.6 or so inches by approx 5 or 5 inches and i used heat sink paste under each rectifier chip, and will just run the negative underneath the mounting bolt to ground it. P.S. The old rectifier only has four wires, three wires to the stator, and a power wire, as this adds a wire to the system, the ground  That threw me off for a little bit. thanks a lot for this information btw, this site is awesome. |
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 21, 2007 11:15:56 GMT -5
laotzuistruth
The mounting stud under the battery box is not grounded. The battery box "floats" on it's rubber mountings, so you need to run the black wire from the rectifiers to a solid frame ground, such as the ground bolt for the negative battery cable.
Was there not a plug for the old rectifier? That is where the OEM rectifier it got it's ground from.
Also, the heat sink paste should be used sparingly. It is just used to fill in very small irregularities in the metal. Too much heat sink paste will actually be counterproductive and act as a thermal insulator.
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Post by laotzuistruth on Dec 21, 2007 11:35:17 GMT -5
Hmm, this was my setup. First, I have a 1977 XS650. The rectifier (I assume), is on the right side of the bike to the left of the battery box if you are looking at the bike. It is mounted diagonally, and has a clip mount for the plug on the side of its cover.
The power wire (I assume) is red with a white stripe. Then, the plug, is 3 wires, of varying colors, that I assume runs to the stator. The old mount is rubber insulated with the rubber pushed in the notch, and a steel spacer running in the middle of the rubber that the bolt goes through.
That is the old setup.
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 21, 2007 11:41:07 GMT -5
laotzuistruth
Well, I have a '78 and I don't think there is much difference in the two models. Your description sounds like the safety relay, especially the red/white wire. The rectifier is mounted on a stud underneath the battery box. It too should have a plug with three white wires, a red wire and a black wire. Take a look.
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 21, 2007 11:57:12 GMT -5
laotzuistruth
Also, because you did not use hemostats to sink the heat from the soldering iron, check the resistance between each white wire on the rectifiers and the red and black wires, and then reverse the leads from your meter and do it again. You should read a low resistance in one direction, and a high resistance in the other. This will ensure that the diodes were not damaged.
Do this before you install the rectifiers because the circuitry in the bike wiring will influence your readings.
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Post by laotzuistruth on Dec 21, 2007 12:43:42 GMT -5
Gosh, Thanks a load! I have obviously been looking at the wrong part. If it is the part under the battery, then I was so far off it was pathetic. Ok, I'm back on track now In my defense, one picture shows the rectifier where the, I guess its a safety switch removed, so I erroniously assumed that was the rectifier as well /DOH! Pam, if I could pester you once more, when reading the diodes, where should I do the readings, from the white wires to ground and then reverse it? |
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Post by pamcopete on Dec 21, 2007 12:49:07 GMT -5
Yes, from each white wire to the black wire (ground) , then reverse the leads, do it again. Then do the same thing from each white wire to the red wire.
I think you may have looked at an installation that another member did after he removed his safety relay. But, in your case, just put the safety relay back where it was.
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Post by laotzuistruth on Dec 21, 2007 12:51:53 GMT -5
Will do. you saved me bike.
P.S. I just received my XS650 Shop manual in the mail! This will help identify parts heh.
Added at Midnight. I tested my rectifier and it passed the resistance test so apparently I didn't fry it by soldering it.
As a matter of fact, the regulator and Rectifier combo are working perfectly. I just put my rectifier where the old one went /shrug on a 1.6 by 5ish inch piece of aluminum with some heat sink compound. I did put some silicon sealer on the bare contacts to defend against shorts.
Thank you all for your great board!
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jflugo
New Member
1974 TX650A
Posts: 42
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Post by jflugo on Dec 26, 2007 8:03:05 GMT -5
Just completed the rectifier replacement and am super pleased with the results. Previously I replaced the regulator with an electronic one as mentioned here and in another of Pamcopete's posts. Found the rectifiers at Radio Shack, the aluminum for the heat sink at True Value - just as mentioned on the post. Working carefully, I added a 20-amp fuse to the positive wire. Cleaned and re-used the OEM connector from the old rectifier, and used the stock bolt to mount the replacement. I used a metal spacer to allow a little extra room between the battery box and the heat sink, in hopes of keeping it cooler.
Took her out for a spin, and boy did she surprise me! Where working up to 70 MPH and beyond took a little pushing before, she was there before I realized it! She is one happy scoot now . . .
Thanks Pamcopete!!
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Post by shifty on Jun 13, 2008 8:11:38 GMT -5
The 'coupler set Part #12-0635' from Mikesxs .... use the female 1/2 on the new rectifier ... it will couple perfect to the stock wire harness (on a 1978 anyways).
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Post by jonbell on Oct 11, 2008 20:31:10 GMT -5
Thanks to pete my bike is charging. The rectfires from radio shack and voltage regulator from napa with orange wire brought back my 77 d motor back to life. I followed petes instuctions to the letter with exceptions no soldering all crimps cant soldering sitll I drilled cooling holes and used nylon spacers between the seat and rectifire heat sink where I mounted it now Im charging @ 14.2 constant volts thanx pete....
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Post by pamcopete on Oct 13, 2008 5:54:25 GMT -5
jonbell
Well, I'm glad it worked out for you. Nice to have reliable power on the XS650 so you can enjoy the ride.
Sound's like you have an unusual setup....prehaps a pic or two would be beneficial to other members.
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hill95
Junior Member
1979 XS650SF (Special)
Posts: 83
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Post by hill95 on Nov 12, 2008 18:37:06 GMT -5
Completed the rectifier as detailed in the pics and the guidance by pamcopete- all very useful. pamco requested to post pics. I had to use green wire vice white wire since it came in the wire pack I bought. The ends connections to the new rectifier are relatively temporary until I get to soldering it. I installed it and it appeared to be working. I am working through lighting issues at the moment so haven't been able to take it down the road. I am still searching for the VR291/VR727 voltage regulator. I think I have a bead on it though at a local autozone. Thanks again for the details. I used a camera phone so these aren't as clear as others.    |
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Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5