rattlecan

[tbonz]

Took almost 5 cans of blue rustoleum to do the tank! I was surprised. I think I was holding it too far away.

I am attempting a clearcoat with Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel, but it tends to run really easily. Any advice? I am planning on wetsanding the runs and hitting it again. I don't want to go into the paint again.

It is because I didn't sand after final paint spray? Needless to say, I was very disappointed to see those big sags after monkeying with the paint for three days.

[spyug]

T,
welcome to the fun and games of spray painting.

I have painted my tank about 6 times, done the graphics about three and just sanded off two coats of clear. Everything was pretty good until the clear. I'm having trouble with my guns and the first time it didn't go on wet enough and the second time it was two wet and ran and sagged like yours. So I get to do it again this weekend......humidity permitting.

The thing with clear coats is that you need them to go on looking wet but not heavy enough that they run. What I try to do is do the first coat light from about 10 to 12 out and the second and third at about 6 to 8. That seems best with HVLP rig but I don't know how it will go with rattle can. The best thing to do is test on some scrap metal. Undercoat and paint as you would the tank and try spraying from different heights,,,,again trying to get a wet but not runny look.

If you do get a few sags or runs but the rest looks good, take them out with 600 to 1500 wet and dry with lots of soapy water. Dry it off and try again.

Sags and runs are a royal PITA and very frustrating and its even worse when your spray equipment goes nutso as well. Right now my guns either spit or drip so just as I lay down a nice coat, a big blob or squirt gets shot on. Right now I seen to be doing more sanding than spraying. Trust me I know how cheesed you feel.

Keep at it, you'll get it soon. Post pics when you do.

Cheers,
Spyug.

[82bobber]

another little tid-bit "paint stripper" will take 'er back to the metal, apply with brush and wait, and hose her off...I recently re-painted the back fender on my bike 4 times, and stripped it down to fresh metal each time PIA, but not as much as gnats and flies, but finally got it on the 4th attempt with 3 coats Dupli-color Cherry Red Pearl over black undercoat, and three coats clear coat. One thing using rattle cans is to paint fast, i usually go about 4-6 inches and move can left to right, releasing trigger each pass, fast, shaking often, and use lighter coats starting off to build finish, and it has to have a final wet-look coating, allow to dry 24 hours, wet sand before final coat 600-1200. Enamels are prone to sagging if applied too thick, you need to be using a laquer for your bike. It takes a lot of practice, i've been rattle canning for years and still screw it up...

[hammerin]

;GREAT !!!!!!My fave subjt :oI have attained good results with rattle cans (RCs ) . First is the all important prep and primer. You need to or I use a primer scratch coverer. Each coat by RC and finish off with #800 git sand wet paper.

Key point it to let it sit out in the sun to pre-heat the tank and the surfaces for final coating. ( Sun Baking Rules = SBRs )

Prep of you final colour is to immerse in hot water - but be carefully here. If you can't stand the heat with your hand in it it's to hot This is an important item to watch out for.) I use a hot plate to warm the RCs in water 1" from the top or so that they don't flaot:-[ so bear in mind all the time finger test all the time ;D Be smart or [glow=red,2,300]don't[/glow] do it this way. Especially if you suffer that prematuer filling thingy EH

When both have arrived at the appropriate temps then tack the tank and from about 12" spray on with Tremclad I start in to make 2 light coats and let each coat come to a good tack ( feel with the fingers ...... well you have to handle everything any way ) after it is tacky then apply a near wet coat once. Let that coat tack up--- but not dry . Apply a second wet coat. Let it all dry in SBRs. Let it stay in SBRs while you ride or not for, a month. This will bake the paint on.

Then go back and wet sand with #1200, sand out any runs or bugs ( unless you get a really meaning full bug into the paint that you want to keep as a meaningful something or other?Mask around that little devil EH!!?? ) then let it sit in SBRs and give it another good light coat , let it tack up, and apply another wet coat. Let it SBRs till dry.

My paint comes out so shiny it's so nice. Cheap too. I haven't done clears yet so that is for next spring on my next re-incarnation of the XSGP 750. I'll giv'er another RC special too and clear with Tremclad Clear Coat.

For a ghost flame job I will mix Tremclad Clear with 3% thinner + 1/32of a teaspoon or less...in a touch up spray jun..Gold Pearl over a taped pattern of occasional flames. After tacked RC clear Tremclad. Bake as per SBRs rule

These paints last a long time and stand up to sun and silly stuff.( still can't filler up with out that dribb'in = premature filler syndrome ME'THINKS HERE MATIES !!!! ) But for extra added glossiness I use 4 coats of Carnuba Wax after about 1 onth of apinting to really seal up the paint. This protects it from sun, water, and a bit of dust. Oh really .... the GAS EH ! Every 6 months I do it. Spring and fall. This also alows the paint to off gas it's fumes and set up properly.

RCs are great if you follow the simple rule of don't mix brands or test on a separate metal surface for brand compatibilities. AND you're OFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF ;D

Imagination is the only limiting factor hear. I started all this RC stuff when iIwas a kid. Painting about 3 bikes a year. Frames and all. I then realized that this was a great opportunity to try any thing I could think of for cheap!!!!!! and no expensive equipment necessary ;D

[glow=red,2,300]ENJOY[/glow]

[zman2]

OK..I`ll bite beacause ive done it too. When painting allways have some 2-3 inch masking tape handy and when you get a run tear off a 6-12 inch piece and bow it and just touch the run..It will usually transfer most of it too the tape. Carefull not to touch the rest of the paint..Just the run.
With that real automotive paint is pretty cheap for a small project like a bike and would suggest that you go to the local automotive paint store and have them mix up a batch ready to use REAL automotive paint.
All you need now is a cheapo compressor to charge the spray can and spray on some real paint.
Its harder so color sanding isnt so difficult to do without bleed through.

[hammerin]

;D Come to think of it, Zman2 you have a good point . I remember that one can have automotive type paints put into a RC. You can then use the matching primers and appropriete sand paper etc but don't have to buy the expensive stuff.

RC = (in my area ) 16.00 for any color and type of paint. I use 3 and 3 more for primer = 96.00 then clear coat if you must another can 112.00 then a couple of other interesting tid bits ( for me at least ) it always comes out to around $[glow=red,2,300]$ 150.00 [/glow]150.00 when I get it all done and changing it isn't such a big deal any more. Sept'n when the RCs are on sale again for 3.00 or 5.00 ;D ;D but you don't have a choice, but then it really doesn't matter cause the practice will make you better ;D

Compressor = ( that can operate a small touch up gun - lets say- for 500.00, compressor hose for another 25.00, filter for water ( a real one ) 80.00, regulate 30.00 a couple of fittings and quick connectors 15.00, Teflon tape 1.00, ( assume you have the wrenches to put it together, 25 ft of copper pipe to cool the air for water drop out ( still need the water filter I'm afraid ) then a paint strainer, paint mask ( yes for RCs as well ) full face cover ( your eyes absorb 100% of what ever touches them ) 150.00 , gloves, hat, etc ) Juz call'em Misc stuff 50.00 - for about [glow=red,2,300]$851.00 + [/glow] your now ready to buy paint, thinner etc etc.

At that time I was painting in my dad's basement way back in the early 60's it was about a buck an RC or maybe 3.00 so for about 25.00 I painted 2 bikes, if I liked the look of the first that is........ used the sand paper over and over again that's about $150.00 for a complete paint job on one bike these days. Some guys I am sure do it for less. Still the results can mean that you [glow=red,2,300]Don't quit you're freekin day job[/glow] or start collecting those bits to make it a better work of art and then onto semi pro work

[hammerin]

OH YA !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take the gas cap & cocks off and paint the whole tank. If the paint peals around that area you didn't prep it or let it dry properly ;D

Lets hear from every one on this stuff. I love it so much.... er that might be that O'L paint comtaminated mind set flashing back.................

[82bobber]

Thaz some real good info there guys and for a cheap paint job rc's the way to go...may not be as hard, long lasting or expensive as say house of color 'eh, but puts a new color and shine to the scoot, and face mask so not to breathe the stuff is good advice, man...i've gotten real spaced out on paint fumes...now here in florida i buy the dupli-color automotive rc's at wally world, usually take one larg spray can 4.50 to primer, f & r frnder and tank, this stuff comes in them lil' spray cans for the color and I usually use 1 each fender at 3.50 and 2 for the tank, and then clear-coat takes 3 more cans at 3.50, see your self finish haha, looks good, and for only 31.00 for total paint plus 4-5 for sandpaper so under 40 bucks a bike. if you don't screw it up! tip: pull tshirt up over nose and mouth and breathe shallow while painting lol. never, ever mix paints, don't put this laquar over enamel or you'l get a wrinkle finish ha, may want that anyway if your lookin for that custom job...you guys do any air brushin'?

[82bobber]

btw tbonz don't feel bad, three days ain't even getting started, when ya spend thrree weeks on a rear fender then you qualify for monkeying around !

[hammerin]

;D Now that's cheap

PLEASE buy that respirator and if possible a full face too. All those chemicals gather at the brain base and are never discarded from your body so it's accumulating and eventually destroys your motor functions as well as those involuntary ones....... like breathing......................... Spend the cash on 1 now instead of money to go to hospitals

Tee Shirts Don't work except for big dist particles or in a sand storm. Unless of course you have heavy BO then you pay

[iam82bobber]

ha hammerin' called me on the t-shirt LOL and he is right, i was juz jokin' so take care there. man....that ain't cheap 4.99 for the whole bike @ flat black is cheap haha

[tbonz]

I always wear respirators for everything. Dust masks fog up my glasses...

Paint ended up looking great after I did a few cycles of wet sanding, trying to fix dull spots with more clearcoat, making new sags, wetsanding...etc.

I finally realized that whenever I hit those dull spots, the blow-by that hit the rest of the tank made it dull, so using the clearcoat in spots never works quite right, and trying to do the whole tank at once makes sags.

So, I went and got a cheapie buffing, polishing kit at HD and wow, finally got things to shine.

But the next morning, when the petcock leaked and I had to drain, remove, flip, and repair the tank, I learned that indeed, the stuff aint gas proof.

Indeed, I think next time I will use auto paint, I bet it goes on better, with fewer sags, since even a cheap gun has got to shoot much better that the rustoleum can (one 3 inch area gets too much paint, everything else just rebounds off the tank, and you have to keep it moving).

Put on big red YAMAHA decals onto the metallic flake blue paint...you'd swear it was 1976 all over again.

[82bobber]

Glad to hear you got the bike painted, and we'd like to see some pics if ya got 'em....?

[orforester]

One item I haven't heard, but years ago a guy turned me on to NAPA paint cans, they have a great nozzle. Comes out smooth and even, a class nozzle. They have plenty of color selection.

[tbonz]

I'll post them when I finish getting the grime and duct tape off the frame.

One idea I had t6i fix an "ugly spot" on my bike:

The triangular ingition and indicator light module looked horrible. Sun had turned it purple and splotchy. I was going to try and replace the ignition, when I realized that the face is just a thin aluminum plate that is glued on. Popped right off, so I am going to wetsand it to the metal , buff it then reglue it. Instead of looking like junk, in might actually look tough, and I won't lose my "brake lining" warning light.