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Post by MarksXS on May 3, 2005 18:29:13 GMT -5
I wonder how many of you are using rattle can spray paint for your projects. I have to admit I have used them on many a project and on the other hand I have gone through the effort of using HVLP guns and every thing in between. It all depends on the project and the results I want.
I have to admit that recently I ran across paint from Krylon called Fusion super bond paint and I am totally blown away by the results of these spray cans. The front of the can says that it is for plastic but also says it works well on metal and wood too. It is a little more expensive about $4.50 but it is worth every penny.
It sprays on great; it has one of the tips that have a flat pattern so you get better coverage. It dries incredibly quick covers well and you can handle your work within one hour. The shine is very nice and after you let it sit for a few weeks put some wax on it and WOW it looks incredible!
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OldBlue
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Senior Member at Large
Posts: 244
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Post by OldBlue on May 3, 2005 18:40:52 GMT -5
There is definately a huge difference between spray cans. In my youth, I painted lots of John Deere stuff, green, of course, and yellow and black too. The cans painted very good, as long as you only tried to cover a small area, say 1 sq. foot. I've had great luck with homemade cans from the auto paint supply also. I wouldn't have any problem painting a bike tank with either one.
John Deere high gloss black enamel is very nice, by the way. No need for a clear coat, just spray a little heavy and wet and let it puddle out. It is tough as nails, but it does dry kind of slow.
But I have also seen cheapo cans that spit and spatter and spray a small round pattern at best, so you have to be careful what you buy.
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Post by slide on May 3, 2005 19:14:35 GMT -5
I often spray with the cans and then take the helmet, tank or whatever to a friend's body shop for pro clear coating. As long as the can doesn't spit you get a pro looking paint job for 1/4 the price and save big time if the item has multiple colors. To get a good stripe or flame (old days) be sure to buy automotive masking tape at the auto wholesale places as the paint will not leach under it like it does with hardware store masking tape. I also use the liguid mask on small jobs that I pick up at hobby stores. Put on a couple of coats of this stuff and cut a very thin line with your exacto knife. Peel off the unwanted area(s) and viola, a seal that paint can not leach under.
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Post by Thorny81Special on May 3, 2005 22:04:30 GMT -5
If you're looking for gloss, make sure you get a few coats of clear, otherwise if you scratch it it won't buff out, and that gets ugly quick. I'm going with a pro paint job on mine 'cause I want it to be slick, and it's tough to find really unique colors in a can, but I do plan to build a rat bike kinda soon that'll probably be sprayed flat, probably an old trail bike, I think can paint would add to the character.
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Post by EvergreenXS on May 4, 2005 9:22:49 GMT -5
For a wider range of colors you can look at the Duplicolor line of spray cans. They are matched to car manufacturers color lines. I used a Honda Emerald green on mine along with a Plastikote antique white. There are a few small flaws where I made my own stencil but they are minor and the paint itself looks very good. I tried to be patient and apply alot of coats and then I went over it with spray lacquer. It looks pretty damn good. I would call it a 3 foot paint job. Looks perfect from 3 feet away.
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Post by Hammerin on May 6, 2005 1:13:39 GMT -5
;D Ah yes ....... do I hear rattle rattle rattle again...  .. of course I do  and with that spray bombs are my fave in painting bikes. You can get any colour put into them these days. Clear, metalic any thing and all the rest so if you want a custom colour then find a place that does this and you can paint it any thing you want. My secrete once was to put the bomb into water and bring it to temp that was nearly too hot to stand. The trick then..  .. us a leather glove.. keeps the paint off the hands .. no what I mean  ;D so, use a self etching primer first off. Beets the old methods of spritzing with metal prep  ... no rust iehter... then wait until it's about 3/4 hour drying time, test and then apply ( again another heated bomb of high hide primer sealer, wait till dry and sand with 180 to 400 grit paper, blow off, tack rag then blast it with your fve colour combo's .... Wait till it's about 2 weeks old and prefurably in the sun for that long, sand wet with 600 grit then second coat. Wait till tacked up really good then apply clear. Wait for it to be dry for about 2 hours then clear coat again if you like. Once upon a time I used to spray numerous bikes any colour some one could pick out. Custom, block colouration, pinstripping, lettering ,,,,,,,, imagination is the limit hear boys and as stated above ........ cheap cheap and an excelent finish can be had. 
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Post by lilbill on May 6, 2005 7:36:32 GMT -5
This isn't directly related to spray cans but it is a cheap way to get a good finish on a frame. Whenever I detail or restore a bike with a gloss black frame I use Gloss Black Rustoleum paint in a can and put it on thick with a good soft bristle brush. It slicks out as it dries (erasing brush marks and blemishes) and gives a nice smooth thick durable coating to the metal (equal to about 20 coats of spray paint). I've painted over rusty, crusty places (like in and around battery boxes) and it really seals up the metal and prevents further rusting. I especially like to use it for touching up a frame on a running bike because there is virtually no masking involved. Just reach around and paint all the exposed frame you can see. Sometimes I will mask hardware and such but usually a steady hand is all you need to keep the paint off unwanted surfaces.
And speaking of spray cans I'll probably be using them to paint the bodywork on my 650 Yamer
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Post by Burns on May 6, 2005 8:15:10 GMT -5
Great tip lilbil. I'll use that one on my TX Cafe project.
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Bevin
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Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 108
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Post by Bevin on May 6, 2005 15:59:19 GMT -5
I use Plasti-Kote brand gloss-black engine paint for frames - I also use it to touch up frames and other black parts, I spray a puddle onto a piece of cardboard and use a small artist's paintbrush for small nicks and scratches.
In addition to Hammerin's advice on warming the can and sanding, I think the keys to a good spray can finish are preparing the surface, spray in thin coats, shake the can constantly, clear the nozzle frequently, and clear coat.
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Post by jeepurze on May 6, 2005 19:12:31 GMT -5
geat tips I just painted two plastic fenders for an mr honda with krylon fusion (ebayer listed as red were ktm orange) I sanded first with 400 then sprayed then sanded with 400 again and shot again; they looked so good I installed the new seat cover thats been on the shelf for 2 years. unbelievable how good it looks . after couple days I installed and wiped it down with armor all wet wipes . im so impressed the tank is next. I always hold can upside down on completion and give it a 2 second spray , I think it helps ; there are great tips on this site you dont have to spend hundred's on this stuff to GET ER DONE.
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garthh
Full Member
 
If it don't work, figure out something that do!!!
Posts: 111
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Post by garthh on Jun 27, 2005 21:12:42 GMT -5
black epoxy appliance paint for frames & brackets
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Post by chopperbbad on Jun 28, 2005 18:27:13 GMT -5
Gotta love the spray bombs. $50. paint job sure works for me. I had the chopper custom coated the last time it was on the road. The whole job cost $1450. CDN. The first time my carbs took a leak it phucked the frame on both side of the motor. The second summer it was on the road I ran out of gas and really phucked it when I came back with gas in a Javax Bleach bottle. So from then to now I use spray bombs. Hardtalookat was just bombed last week.  And like Hammer I'm letting it settle for a few weeks before a wet sand and couple of coats of clear. By the way it was painted with Cast Iron Engine and Motor paint. Rick
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garthh
Full Member
 
If it don't work, figure out something that do!!!
Posts: 111
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Post by garthh on Jul 3, 2005 14:31:56 GMT -5
 My 82 started out w/ a blacked out motor I saoked & scrubbed the best I could cleaned w/mek & painted w/hi-temp silver exaust paint My thinking is that if the paint starts to peel chip or crack chances are good that unpolished aluminum will show through a couple of years down the road, still looks reasonably good Has any one found any hi-temp [more than 500 degrees] clear coat
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Post by fnlboy on Jul 3, 2005 21:02:45 GMT -5
I've been using my cheap Harbor Freight powder coat system with an old gas grill I scrubbed out and put bricks between the flame and the grill (where the fake concrete charcoal used to go). Worked out pretty good so far
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garthh
Full Member
 
If it don't work, figure out something that do!!!
Posts: 111
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Post by garthh on Jul 6, 2005 13:39:41 GMT -5
Is there anything that harbor freight doesn't have? you're making me think my wife has a propane kiln [pottery oven] she does get possive about "her" toys
Garth
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