TWILKIN
Full Member
'72 XS2 650, FJR1300 Cypress, Tx.
Posts: 214
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Post by TWILKIN on Jul 30, 2004 6:45:46 GMT -5
I've looked at the threads on polishing side cases, and looked at the great pictures posted in various places.
What works best to get the clear coat off? Can someone also give me the name or part number for the Yamaha or other good clear coat for case covers once I get the old clearcoat off and polish the cases, and guidelines for prep and use to get it to stick well?
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Post by barber1303 on Jul 30, 2004 8:12:22 GMT -5
Any strong paint remover should work okay to get the clearcoat off. I've heard lots of talk of aircraft paint stripper working well. I personally used Permatex gasket remover, which worked great.
As for replacement clearcoat...make sure you get something that is fuel proof...really fuel proof. I used a rattle can clear coat that was supposedly fuel proof...now I have big yellow drip stains.
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Post by mental on Jul 30, 2004 13:58:21 GMT -5
Zoopseal is an excellent product to keep your polished aluminum protected. It seems a little expensive at $99, but when you consider that a mini kit does 35 square feet and lasts for 2-3 years, that $99 goes a long way. Here's the link to Zoopseal. There is a lot of information on applications a such. www.caswellplating.com/buffs/zoopseal.html?PHPSESSID=0fee15d8354ff349d663c1636bfc446cOriginally, the Yamaha side covers were coated with what appears to be nothing more than baked on lacquer. There are a few clearcoats on the market that claim to be specifically made for clearing over bare aluminum. Although I have no personal experience in their use, I have seen some of the finished products in person. One such item is called Diamond clear. You can get it from Eastwood Co. www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=415&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=clearcoatThe problem with spray on clears such as this is that you can tell that they have been clearcoated. They have a slight texture and even if you color sand and buff, it will still have a slightly hazey look to it. The key to painting aluminum, whether it be clear or color, is clean, clean, clean. If the aluminum is not totally clean before you apply your clear, it will not stick very well and will start peeling fairly quickly. When I say clean, I am not only refering to dirt and grease, but also oxidation. Oxidation happens rather quickly on aluminum, so it is best if you plan on clearing your aluminum parts as soon after polishing or blasting as possible and certainly do it within 12 hours. After that Oxidation has started to form a microscopic layer on the surface that will prevent paint from sticking. Mental |
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Post by 50gary on Jul 30, 2004 17:47:53 GMT -5
I just glass beaded my engine cases about an hour ago I'm going to paint them tonight. The beading really cleans aluminum so well, inside of the bolt holes and every nook and cranny. Happy guy, Cheers, 50gary
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TWILKIN
Full Member
'72 XS2 650, FJR1300 Cypress, Tx.
Posts: 214
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Post by TWILKIN on Aug 5, 2004 20:13:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the sources and tips! I'm not sure exactly what I will do and when on the cases. I may ride for a few months and sort out engine problems first, but good ideas are appreciated.
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Post by Hammerin on Nov 14, 2004 10:58:50 GMT -5
;D If the cases are polished you can have clear coat applied by powder coating ;D
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Post by jetmechmarty on Nov 14, 2004 11:29:22 GMT -5
I experimented with a product called GLISTEN PC. It is from the same folks that make POR 15. I coated my lower fork legs with it about over a year ago. It is very clear and appears to be durable so far. This is a two part epoxy coating.
The product info states that it may be applied with a brush and will not leave brush marks. I tried this and I was not happy with the results. I believe satisfactory results may be obtained if the product is sprayed on.
This stuff is not cheap, so the powder coat may be a viable alternative.
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