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Post by spyug on Jun 20, 2006 13:02:20 GMT -5
To finish up the tracker's paint scheme I have done some graphics on the old 'puter. I had intended on transferring them to a stencil film ( from the artist supply store) cutting out what would be the painted bits and spraying with my favourite colour (blue).
I'd like to do this to learn the skill but I'm thinking its going to add quite a few hours to the project. Hours that I am going to be hard pressed to find.
I'm now thinking about going to a sign maker and having the graphics printed on clear film. Sticking them on and then clearcoating like a decal.
I know that graphics kits are available ( from Omar's at least) and I was wondering how they will turn out. Has anyone gone this route yet i.e. having something custom made?
What are the pros and cons? Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any input. Spyug.
After thinking about this a bit more I decided to check around the net. I was starting to wonder about using my colour laser printer and came across a vinyl film that is designed for this from a company in Texas :http://www.hyaz.com/laser%20static%20cling%20clear.html
Now has anyone used this? They also carry a selection of "water-slide" decal film that might also do the job.
As this stuff is fairly inexpensive, I might get some to try. If it works, I might just have created a new "side" business. I'll let you know what happens.
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Post by motormike on Jun 20, 2006 14:50:58 GMT -5
I have a guy here that makes the water slide stuff...he's done my side covers...a friends boat...my tool box...window decals for the car....you come up with the design...shape size....color....pop it in the PC and hit a button....the vinyl machine does its thing....bing ba da bing....Mike, MN
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Post by 50gary on Jun 20, 2006 15:27:45 GMT -5
I too am wondering about how best to apply a design to a painted tank and side covers? I want to use a particular font that I've found and stencil it on with paint. solid white over solid tank color. Simple Cheers, 50gary
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Post by spyug on Jun 20, 2006 15:56:00 GMT -5
50G, For what you want to do I think the stencil idea would work well as long as the font is not a "script" i.e. like handwriting. Since the letters connect, when you cut them out there maybe blank spaces.
When I first got some of the stencil film, I tried a few fonts only to find they didn't look good when cut out. It is also a bit tricky and tedious as you need really good eyesight, steady hand and really sharp knife. The simpler the design the better I think. In my case, I have a diagonal chequerboard design with an oval in the center and the words "650 Tracker" in the font Eras Bold IT. My background is white and the chequers and name will be in a bright blue. I'll need to cut out about 30 squares and the words on two stencils for the tank. The tail of my seat will be in chequerboard ( like the tail fin on a WW2 fighter) and I'll need to cut out about 50 squares for that. As I have to run a front fender ( to keep the man off my case) I'll probably run a chequerboard stripe on it good for another 60 or so squares.
As it is all pretty tedious and time consuming I'm trying to find a quicker way thus the "decals". As motormike says the sign guys can pop them out pretty quickly. The cost of doing it this way may be too expensive but I'll check this out tomorrow.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Good luck, Spyug.
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Post by slide on Jun 20, 2006 16:56:58 GMT -5
Spyug, bear in mind that most of your painting will be done on compound curved items making it very difficult to do with stencils especially if the area is long in height or width. I feel it is much easier,but maybe more time consuming, to mask each color and apply the paint. Let us know which method you go with and post the results.
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jack
Junior Member

Posts: 99
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Post by jack on Jun 20, 2006 18:44:07 GMT -5
Stenciling is the easy way out and besides it looks tacky and cheap. take and find the time to do it right The First Time Around and in the end your efforts will self awarding to a first class paint job,let alone getting off from compliments.............Jack
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Post by spyug on Jun 20, 2006 18:54:48 GMT -5
At this point guys it is a moot point as I've just managed to screw up the clearcoat. Despite being fastidious about cleaning and setting up my guns, tonight I just couldn't get a smooth coat to flow. Started out kind of "pebbly "and went down hill from there. Sags and runs everywhere. Major bummer  While I can sand it off tomorrow, I won't be able to paint now for goodness knows how long as the humidity is going to shoot up again tomorrow. That has just put paid to my finishing by this weekend. I'm so annoyed I could spit. Spyug
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Post by spyug on Jun 21, 2006 10:59:05 GMT -5
After a night of tossing and turning and thinking about your suggestions I think I will take the advice and try and tape everything out.
I have been practicing this morning with the masking tape and can layout the chequerboard pattern fairly easily. I may simplify the graphics and just run a racing stripe over the fender and down the tank. For the lettering I will still need to use a stencil as I'm no artist and couldn't free hand it to save my life.
First I have to sand off the mess I created last night. As the humidity is again out of sight I'll need to paint indoors so I'll be in the dog house again soon.
Wish me luck.
Spyug.
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jack
Junior Member

Posts: 99
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Post by jack on Jun 21, 2006 16:49:09 GMT -5
Do your graphic layout,then take the tank to a painter who has a controlled paint booth and ask him to clear shoot the tank..........Jack
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Post by spyug on Jun 22, 2006 14:03:05 GMT -5
Spent all morning taping out the fender, seat and tank in the chequerboard pattern. Very fiddly and time consuming but doable.
Humidity today in the garage is 90% so no painting there. The wife will be out tonight so I may try and set up the mini paint booth in the downstairs works shop. Paint smell but what the hell.
As much as I'd like to just drop the tins off with the pros its definitely a no go as a) they charge heavy dollars b) they get around to it when they get around to it. c) most auto shops won't touch something an amateur has done.
So far in the project this has been the toughest part.
Spyug.
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Post by spyug on Jun 22, 2006 17:54:03 GMT -5
So I painted the graphics late this afternoon with the airbrush. The paint is touch dry and I have been removing the masking tape.
Problem I have encountered is that on most of the squares I have paint bleed through under the tape. Not a lot but enough to leave a fuzzy line. A bit disconcerting but I am hoping it will clean up when I hit it with the 1500grit wet/dry before I attempt the clearcoat again.
I like the blue/white chequerboard so now I have to find a script I like for the tank sides "650 Tracker" which I will need to do with a stencil as the old freehand isn't going to cut it.
This really is a fiddly business and I can see now why the pros command mega dollars for a paint job.
This takes some skill and finesse....something I am short on at this point.
Spyug
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Post by oldschool on Jun 22, 2006 21:05:45 GMT -5
Spyuyg, you'll be even that much prouder of the bike when done. I too have great respect for the paint professionals after having screwed up a project or two. Hang in there, a lot of people are watching to see how this turns out. You have a beautiful bike going and it's no wonder after reading some threads and seeing your building ethic. Good luck. I'm learning much as you proceed. Thanks.
Roy
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Post by 50gary on Jun 22, 2006 22:40:20 GMT -5
spyug, I'm no pro but you shouldn't be getting any taping bleed. What kind of masking tape are you using? There is low tac and striping tape. Household masking tape is not preferred. Check with a painter's supply store. Cheers, 50gary
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Post by shifty on Jun 22, 2006 23:14:13 GMT -5
3M costs more in the short term  ... hey, I don't paint ... but thats what they tell me. Love to see some pics when its done. edited part ... 50gary mentioned it ... Was browsing at the local hardware store and saw a whole wall of different masking tapes. Whoever 'they' are ... they say ;D 3M is the best. Maybe someone knows the best product ID?
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Post by tomterrific on Jun 23, 2006 6:51:28 GMT -5
I've had poor luck with masking tape also. It helps to have a roller and use it to force the edge of the tape onto the surface for a better seal.
Tom Graham
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