Mashermoto's big street tracker adventure

[mashermoto]

Well...today was a good day. Just as I won four 36mm Mikuni round slides on FleaBay, the door bell rang and it was the UPS guy delivering me a set of pipes DBurge sent me. Just like Christmas in November ;D

I also got the engine pulled out of the frame today. I'll post pictures later. Ya know, I don't recall reading any post warning a guy that the engine pull requires sacrificing three lower back discs That project is what we refer to in the business world as a good challenge

I thought this was going to be as easy as pulling the top end off and then simply removing the lower end. Nice and light...right No, No, No, after referencing my trusty Clymer motorcycle manual I read that the top end must stay in tact until the engine is out. But not to worry, the picture shows how you just grab the head on the right side and the case on the left side and remove the engine...Whoo Hoo, I can do that No, No, No, you see I weigh 150 pounds soaking wet and that engine is...well I don't know how much that engine weighs...but it's more than my skinny butt Not to worry again...I remembered a post from somewhere on this post board that mentioned laying the bike over on some carpet on the left side and wiggling the engine in place. So I decide if it works to get it in...it should work to get it out. It did...but there has to be a better way

So here is Masher's big question for the day...What is the best procedure for removing a 650 engine, and what is the best way to install a 650 engine? OK, that was two questions, but its still Masher's big question for the day

Is there a way to use hydraulic lifts? engine lifts for motorcycles? or do you just have to pucker and hope all your rear end bodily parts stay intact? I hate thinking about how scratched up my frame and engine are going to look without a better way.

Some of you guys have done this many times. Hope to hear from ya.

[50gary]

For The Record, my XS 650 motor weighs 166# on a digital scale. I lay the motor down on the carpet and load the frame on to the motor (frame mostly stripped) I also use some cut up bicycle tires ziptied to the frame tubes to protect the powder coating. I work alone so it's the way I choose to mount the motor. My frame is much modded so it's a very tight fit.
Cheers, 50gary

[spyug]

I did my engine removal and installation the same way. I wasn't very difficult and easy enough for one person to do if you can move the engine lump ( eat your wheaties!).

On the installation I found if you put the back motor mount in first and tilt the frame and motor to upright, the front drops into place and you can finish popping in the bolts.

With the motor in the frame it gets to be a bit more unwieldy and a second set of hands is recommended.

For ease of reassembly from that point I would also recommend getting a bike/atv lift. For under $100 these things are great. Very easy to get the bike to a comfortable working height and easier to maneuver the project around the shop. I didn't have one when I was doing my reassembly until more than half way through but it would have been a real bonus from the beginning.
I wouldn't be without it now. A word of caution about other stands.....plastic milkcrates are not strong enough and will in time give way. I started with that and just as I was setting up the lift the crate gave way and almost droped the 3/4 finished bike on me.

Be careful when lifting and moving these weights as they can do you an injury, wear your safety gear ( steel toed boots for sure). Also if you drop the engine from any height you are going to break something for sure.

Take it slow and easy.

Cheers,
Spyug.

[mashermoto]

Thanks for the tips Gary and Spy. I finished stripping everything down to a bare frame with no triple tree or swing arm. You know, if a guy were to install the motor in the frame completely stripped like I have it now, that wouldn't be too bad. Then it could be lifted up on one of the lifts like Spy suggested to bolt up the forks, tires and swing arm

When I was in the Hardly Freight tools store today I noticed two models of Bike/ATV lifts. One was $70 and the other was $60 dollars. Not bad. Hardly Freight stuff is really low quality, but what I find is that a weekend warrior like me can do OK with their products, but if I were counting on their tools for a business, now way would I buy their tools

So there is one excellent solution to yesterdays Mashermoto big question(s)....now here is Mashermoto's big question for today....Hardly Freight also had 2 ton hydraulic jacks for 8 buckers. Why couldn't a guy scale down one of those big honkin car engine hoists to about 1/4 scale and weld one up Then a guy could just hoist the engine in or out. From what I observed the parts list would require the 2 ton jack, some wheels and square pipe. Has anyone tried this yet?

[mashermoto]

Here is a photo of the four Mikuni 36mm carbs I bought off FleaBay. The two on the right have the choke port milled off. The port runs from the choke lever to the bell housing. This leaves an uncovered hole in the bell housing. Does anybody know what that is about? What would be the purpose? Did I just get hosed?

[mashermoto]

Here are some Kodaks of a seat installation I have been working on...



The seat/fender is from Hotwings, which isn't much difference from any other street tracker setup...



But I wanted to do something different...I just didn't like the idea of bolting myself out of access to the battry...



So I modified the seat pan to fit the Hotwing fiberglass...



I was surprised how well the seat pan fit to the fiberglass...



Here is a shot of the under belly of both...



I know most guys cutoff all the extra steel fasteners on the frame to lighten it up, but I'm starting to like the idea of keeping the helmet/seat lock and flip up seat options.

BTW, in that flip up photo, notice that I have the seat tied off with wire. If anyone has the flip up seat slide thingy mechanism, hinge pins and some rubber pads that you don't need, please send me a PM. I could use them.

I'll try and send some pictures of other ideas I have when complete.

[mashermoto]

I've been letting ideas incubate in my mind about 650 or 700 pistons in the stock sleeves, or 750 kit. I'm close enough now with the project to start ordering engine parts.

I've also researched most of the popular cams; Shell, Megacams, Web, etc. I sent an email to 650Central about the Street Fighter Cam. The specs are .410 lift with a tight 100* lobe center. So it looks like a good low to midrange cam, which is exactly what I want. Has anybody ran one?

[mashermoto]

Got the engine torn down tonight, except for splitting the cases. Previous owner mentioned he saw the right side smoking and shut it down after that happened. Looks like the right side was trying to seize.



The far right cam lobe (far left in the photo) shows scorching all around it. The other lobes look fine. This is not that big of a deal because unless something changes my mind soon, I am ordering a Street Fighter cam from 650Central. This one is good enough for a core if needed.



The rocker for that lobe (top left in the photo) showes some scorching and I can feel an imperfection in the rocker next to it.



The right side piston (left in the photo) shows signs of seizure on the exhaust side of the piston...



and ditto the cylinder. Both could be salvaged, but this bike is most likely going to be a 750 anyway. Hopefully the crank and rods are OK.

[mashermoto]

It's been about three months since my last update so here are some pictures of my progress...or lack thereof ;D





I've got the FZR600 swing arm and mono shock in place, as well as the XS1100 Special front end. I can tell that those handlebars are much too low. Replacements will have a higher rise and more pull back.



The 277 re-phased crankshaft is looking for its home.



I have the heads ported, although not nearly as good as a Crew Chief Jack. But I did follow his post for instruction. Thanks Jack, I could not have done this without your knowledge

I'm waiting on the 9:1 compression 750cc kit from Mercury Morris at 650Central to show up. But when it does, I have a local performance bike shop ready to fit the sleeves.

I still have lots of minor fabrication to complete before sending parts out for powder coating. I'll post some more progress at that time

[crazypj22]

Hi Masher,
glad to see you've been busy ;D
About the carbs, looks like they were modified for clearance, although you have hem to the right hey were probably centre carbs ( or 1 & 3 cyl)
Easiest thing to do would be epoxy some brass tube in there to seal up choke mechanism from dirty air and also intake at same time (and it gives you something else to polish ;D)
Seat is looking good, as you said, surprising how well hotwings glass fits stock pan
PJ

[jack]

Masher..............your bikes really taken shape. Give some close shots of the mono hook up and take a few more shot angles of the exhaust ports(outside turn) theres more room for improvement around the guide boss,if your up to it.Also take a shot of the exhaust pocket and PM,some are skeptical about my porting skills,so we don't wanna give them any clues as how it should be done correctly .............Jack

[mashermoto]

OK Jack, I'll get some mono shock pictures posted.

I'll also get some more port shots, but I actually have some more work to do on them. I left the valve guides in during the port work, but to get it right they need to come out. There are just a few places, most notably in the pocket, that I can't reach. I also nicked a couple of them, so I am considering shortening them like you show in your posts.

I'll get back with you before I place the valve guides back in place.

[mashermoto]

PJ, I think you identified the carbs correctly. That cut out leaves just enough room for them to fit, if the manifolds were close together.

This story has a good ending. I shipped the two inside carbs back to the guy I bought them from on Ebay and he refunded me for the price of two. I thought he treated me well.

[jeepurze]

real nice idea on that seat , I like that a lot. mine ive gotta fish around under the seat for a nut, then it slides under bracket at the front.

[mashermoto]

I'm baaaaaaaaaaack ;D

Seems like a guy waits forever for parts, then at all the sudden they come at once...but as Martha Stewart would say, that's a good thing At least when she wasn't in prison

Here are some shots of the FZR600 mountings that Jack requested. This one is a over all view from the front.



Here is a picture from underneath. That frame brace the brackets are welded to couldn't have been better designed from the factory. It is flat where the brackets mount and angled perfectly.



The upper shock mount is just under the battery bracket and between the V shaped frame supports.



Here is a shot of the Porch 911 valve adjusters. I ordered four but somehow received five. I have a set of burned rockers that I'm going to use to experiment the fit. Pictures to follow.



If you have been following Pete's $49 ignition for a 277 re-phased motor, here is a picture of the Mallory unit for $34 at Amazon.com (free shipping). I discovered something interesting today about wasted spark vs no wasted spark. Pete has actually designed the system to produce either one. The no wasted spark is what I want because I build for low end and mid-range power in street trackers. The no wasted spark ignition systems produce more low to mid-range, while the wasted spark ignitions actually produce better high RPM. So there you go, Pete has either system for your needs



Now for the meat and potatoes ;D Last week the 750 kit came in and this week I got the cylinders back. I also got the heads back with a new valve job. Woooo Hoooo



Well...that's enough for tonight. As you can see, I have lots of work to do and love'n it