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Post by theradbaron on Mar 1, 2010 7:56:22 GMT -5
It might be too late to be practical to change it, but if you're going with a WWII-era look then disc brakes are going to be entirely out of place. It's just my opinion, but a few obviously modern parts on a bike that's built to look antique can really ruin the whole effect. It's a mistake I see a lot on custom bikes. Discs are better brakes, but properly sized and set up drums work just fine and are safe, and they're critical for a well executed vintage custom bike. All the associated master cylinders and lines for a hydraulic disc also add clutter and defeat the minimalist look of antique bikes.
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Post by terribletabo1 on Mar 2, 2010 0:31:55 GMT -5
Yes, Bill @ Cycle Service Sales who is building it for me originally had the period correct drum brakes on it but I chickened out & asked him to change to disc brakes. We went back & forth quite a bit because he felt like going to disc brakes would ruin the look, but it's one of the compromises I finally decided to make on this project. I do agree with all the points, but I was just worried from a few close calls I had on my Ducati where I narrowly avoided disaster. I ride in Manhatten a lot & I'd swear some of the people there drive like they are trying to kill you!
I've never had drum brakes on a bike & only owned Ducatis w/ Brembo brakes so I'm used to having very powerful brakes and was worried that I might kill myself with the drum brakes. I was also looking at the 360 brakes, but they are way too expensive.
I was hoping to pick & choose different elements that I liked from the various military bikes of that era for styling cues & as a jumping off point, but didn't want us to be limited by it. Thanks for the imput though. I didn't even think of the sound of the disc brakes. Since I've only had disc brakes, it didn't even occur to me that drum brakes could sound different.
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Post by terribletabo1 on Apr 24, 2010 1:34:57 GMT -5
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Post by terribletabo1 on Oct 16, 2010 22:08:24 GMT -5
Ran into a bit of a problem because the kicker will probably hit my floorboards. Is there any way of limiting or blocking the range of motion for my kicker so it won't be hitting my floorboards? We don't have much room to move the floorboard forward because it will run into the brake pedal:   |
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Post by dogbunny on Oct 16, 2010 23:12:08 GMT -5
How about making the floorboard fold down on a hinge during kick-starting?
On my XS650s it seems like it's the very last part of the kick that actually starts the bike. I don't think my bikes would ever kick-start if I limited the kick-starter motion.
But, if you do want try using a limited motion -- why not just let the kick-starter hit the floor board?
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Post by terribletabo1 on Oct 17, 2010 7:47:42 GMT -5
How about making the floorboard fold down on a hinge during kick-starting? On my XS650s it seems like it's the very last part of the kick that actually starts the bike. I don't think my bikes would ever kick-start if I limited the kick-starter motion. But, if you do want try using a limited motion -- why not just let the kick-starter hit the floor board? That's not a bad idea. I'll bring it up with my builder & see if we can do it in a aesthetically pleasing way. Thanks! |
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Post by tomterrific on Oct 18, 2010 13:06:48 GMT -5
You can move the floorboard out so the lever goes between the board and the frame. The rear mounting to the frame will need to be moved up so the lever can clear and an 'L' bracket to get the floorboard bolted on. The toe of your boot may still foul the floorboard when kicking.
Tom Graham
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Post by terribletabo1 on Nov 27, 2010 17:45:29 GMT -5
Talked it over with my builder. He suggested that maybe we could bend the kicker & install the kicker at a different angle so that it will avoid the floorboards:  I found this picture of an angled kicker & photo shopped it in, but I think a more rounder curved angle would look better for this build. Don't know if that will work, but I guess it's worth a shot. |
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Post by madmax on Nov 27, 2010 18:17:28 GMT -5
Looks like an SR500 kicker, getting thin on the ground these days and a little too short for a 650.
How about hingeing the footboard so it folds up out of the way for starting? or does that bugger up your brake pedal?
Max
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Post by terribletabo1 on Nov 27, 2010 20:22:41 GMT -5
I brought up moving the floorboards with my builder but he informed me that wasn't an option because they drilled hole into frame when they welded it. We're going to try to do something with the angle of the kicker or just leave it on for show & not use it.   |
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Post by terribletabo1 on Mar 12, 2011 20:58:02 GMT -5
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Post by garyr on Mar 14, 2011 12:28:40 GMT -5
I think your project is GREAT! just some info. You don't want to use those filters you have in the picture. Get a pair of oval K&N filters or black foam Uni filters. Those filters will give you a flat spot at 5k like it lean, not enough air volume.
Also I see you made your own exhaust. You will need exhaust spigots from 650central. They reduce the head pipe diameter back to stock or you will never get the bike to run right. The spigots slide in the head, before you bolt on the head pipes.
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Post by terribletabo1 on Mar 19, 2011 18:23:53 GMT -5
I think your project is GREAT! just some info. You don't want to use those filters you have in the picture. Get a pair of oval K&N filters or black foam Uni filters. Those filters will give you a flat spot at 5k like it lean, not enough air volume. Also I see you made your own exhaust. You will need exhaust spigots from 650central. They reduce the head pipe diameter back to stock or you will never get the bike to run right. The spigots slide in the head, before you bolt on the head pipes. Thanks for the tips! I think my builder installed the power cones in the head pipes from www.650central.com/exhaust.htmNot sure I understand why the advantage from oval K&N filters or black foam Uni filters? Could you elaborate? Are these the ones you are talking about? www.650central.com/air_filters.htm |
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Post by ShakerNorm on Mar 19, 2011 18:42:11 GMT -5
I think what Garyr is talking about is the fact that some of the older aftermarket filters (I got mine from Mike's) had an inner lip that blocked the air passages that the carb needs to properly measure air. This created a LOT of problems.
When I had them, I had tuned my bike with them off, but as soon as I installed them, everything went south and the bike ran like crap - until I removed them again.... I tried carving off the lip, and still no good. I ended up dishing out the $$ for real K&N's and have been happy with them ever since. With MMM selling the Unifilters - I'm betting that they've been corrected, as well.
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Post by preston on Mar 19, 2011 19:13:25 GMT -5
Per forum guidance,
I have 2x4' Unipods on one bike, it runs great.
I have have the oval pods from Mikes on the other, and it runs great.
In the old days,,,
the only time my bike would run good, with the old K&N pods, is that I would put them on, just barley on the lip of the carb,,, so there was about 1/4" before that poorly designed K&N inner lip , would not block the needed air, into the carburetor air ports, the very small holes on side.
I gave the old pods, to a bobber buddy, would does not care how fast he goes, as long as it looks good, and putts around town, he is fine with them.
Regards
Preston
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