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Post by garyr on Mar 22, 2011 13:49:09 GMT -5
With the increased exhaust pipe diameter and those racing carbs you have (not stock) those air filters do not move enough volume of air and will cause your bike to hesitate at 5k rpms. I've been there and done that....thought I would help you out and save you countless hours. Go with and oval type filter or uni-filters. With the Uni-filter you can use a small filter because their is not any backing plate and it allows more air flow. The filters you linked are for the PCV vent..and you should use those filters you linked on the vent. This is the oval carb filter  I had the same tapered filters, they look cool but don't work with your application. FYI: make sure you have the exhaust spigots or it will not run right. I would call Mike at 650 central, you may want to send him those pipes to also install his torque peak optimizers...funny name but they will set up your power band back to stock...if not you will loose tons of power and torque with your pipes....again been their done that, just trying to save you time. |
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Post by terribletabo1 on Mar 22, 2011 22:24:03 GMT -5
With the increased exhaust pipe diameter and those racing carbs you have (not stock) those air filters do not move enough volume of air and will cause your bike to hesitate at 5k rpms. I've been there and done that....thought I would help you out and save you countless hours. Go with and oval type filter or uni-filters. With the Uni-filter you can use a small filter because their is not any backing plate and it allows more air flow. The filters you linked are for the PCV vent..and you should use those filters you linked on the vent. This is the oval carb filter I had the same tapered filters, they look cool but don't work with your application. FYI: make sure you have the exhaust spigots or it will not run right. I would call Mike at 650 central, you may want to send him those pipes to also install his torque peak optimizers...funny name but they will set up your power band back to stock...if not you will loose tons of power and torque with your pipes....again been their done that, just trying to save you time. I always appreciate good time saving advice. I actually had the TPO but we sent them back in exchange for the Power Cones. I don't remember exactly why though. I never fully understood the difference between the Torque Peak Optimizers & the Power Cones. I thought it would only change the where in the RPM range the peak torque would be. I obviously won't be racing this bike & would mainly use it as a fun bike for bar hopping & short cruises. Do those filters come in any other color than the pink? (Pull Down) Sprocket Ratio #
RPM vs MPH Standard and Mikes O/D Gear Front Sprocket - > 18 2.722222222 75.00 Sprocket Table
by pamcopete V2.6 Rear Sprocket - > 49 75.25 Front Rear
1 st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 5th (Mikes) Rolling Distance # 75.50 16 29
78.5 78.5 78.5 78.5 78.5 Rolling Distance In. 78.5 78.5 75.75 17 30
6.542 6.542 6.542 6.542 6.542 Rolling Distance Ft. 6.542 Select and 76.00 18 31
807.13 807.13 807.13 807.13 807.13 Rev/Mi 807.13 Pull Down 76.25 32
14.44 9.32 7.63 6.43 5.61 Overall Ratio * 5.38 Rolling Distance # 76.50 33
8776 7185 6052 5286 70 MPH 5066 Note: 76.75 34
11658 7523 6158 5187 4531 60 MPH 4342 18" = 78.5" 77.00 36
10687 6896 5645 4755 4154 55 MPH 3980 16" = 75.5 " 77.25 38
9715 6269 5132 4323 3776 50 MPH 3619 77.50 40
8744 5642 4619 3890 3398 45 MPH 3257 77.75 49
7764 5010 4101 3455 3018 40 MPH 2892 5TH Gear Ratios 78.00
5829 3761 3079 2594 2266 30 MPH 2171 Standard 0.956521739 78.25
3886 2507 2053 1729 1510 20 MPH 1447 Mikes 24 Tooth 0.916666667 78.50
78.75 Primary Ratio
Note: * includes primary gear , gear and sprockets 79.00
Note: # Rolling Distance (inches) for one revolution of rear tire 79.25 2.666 Standard
with tire inflated to normal pressure. 79.50 2.156 Heiden Tuning
Primary Ratio 2.156 79.75
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Post by garyr on Mar 23, 2011 13:24:11 GMT -5
If you're building your own pipes you will need booth of these or you will not have any power and your bike will not run right, this is for street use. omarsdtr.com/xhaust.html I linked Omar's stuff but 650central has the same stuff but you can't link them separately. Just to clearify, the long tubes set your red line and are adjustable..IF you wanted to modify them for racing. If you leave them alone they are set to factotry red line, if you don't use them your bike will never reach/make peak power, the bike will always feel like it's jetted to rich and will never rev to higher RPM's. I spent all summer finding that out. Mike Morse at 650central fixed all those problems when I sent him my pipes. Their are many, many air filters and colors to choose from. I linked an example of what an oval shaped filter looks like. Mikes has them in black, non K&N name. Make sure you choose the right one for your carb, looks like you have VM 34's?, larger diameter than stock. Uni-Filters also sells black ones but they are all foam. My point was the tapered-smaller ones on your bike with a backing plate will not let enough air through at higher RPM's. I'm a World War II enthusiest........good luck with your bike...Awsome. |
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Post by terribletabo1 on Mar 23, 2011 20:30:19 GMT -5
If you're building your own pipes you will need booth of these or you will not have any power and your bike will not run right, this is for street use. omarsdtr.com/xhaust.html I linked Omar's stuff but 650central has the same stuff but you can't link them separately. Just to clearify, the long tubes set your red line and are adjustable..IF you wanted to modify them for racing. If you leave them alone they are set to factotry red line, if you don't use them your bike will never reach/make peak power, the bike will always feel like it's jetted to rich and will never rev to higher RPM's. I spent all summer finding that out. Mike Morse at 650central fixed all those problems when I sent him my pipes. Their are many, many air filters and colors to choose from. I linked an example of what an oval shaped filter looks like. Mikes has them in black, non K&N name. Make sure you choose the right one for your carb, looks like you have VM 34's?, larger diameter than stock. Uni-Filters also sells black ones but they are all foam. My point was the tapered-smaller ones on your bike with a backing plate will not let enough air through at higher RPM's. I'm a World War II enthusiest........good luck with your bike...Awsome. Sorry, I just want to make sure I understand your advice correctly. My pipes are modified Hoos pipes with Power Cones from 650 central welded into it. I can keep the power cones but get either the Exhaust Port Optimizers from 650central or the Exhaust Port Optimizers from Omars? Thanks for taking the time to give me some tips. For some reason, I could just never really fully understand Power Cones, Exhaust Port Optimizers, and Torque Peak Optimizers. BTW Yeah, I love WWii pinup art & vehicles too! |
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Post by garyr on Mar 23, 2011 21:40:30 GMT -5
Sorry, I just want to make sure I understand your advice correctly. My pipes are modified Hoos pipes with Power Cones from 650 central welded into it. I can keep the power cones but get either the Exhaust Port Optimizers from 650central or the Exhaust Port Optimizers from Omars? Yes you need the TPO's also, I think 650 Central makes them for Omar's so either place you buy them from. They get welded into the end of the head pipe, but before the muffler. |
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Post by terribletabo1 on Jan 13, 2012 0:18:28 GMT -5
 imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/39555310150467500654236.jpg/Looks like the black/gray filters I picked out from Heiden won't fit so now I'm stuck with 3 choices: RED OVAL Filter from MikesXS  (Drawback: Red doesn't match WW2 Military Green & Black color scheme) or Black Uni Foam Filters  (Drawback: Black foam might look too cheap) or try to modify my existing black/gray filter that came with the Mikuni 36 Carburetor  (Drawback: Might not work) |
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Post by preston on Jan 13, 2012 14:16:41 GMT -5
If you choose to use the 3 rd photo, ( the little cones units),,,
just be aware, you will always chase down: engine misses, hard starts, and running issues, and you will think it electrical, and then back to carbs and switch to thinking it is the valves-adjustments, and so on and so forth... UNTIL...
until you trash the small cone-filter-pods, (as like most in that style of photo), they prevent the air to properly flow into the engine, specificly the carbs, as they (those pods) partially block side air-orvices/passage-ways,, (not the big hole)... the 1/16" holes on the carbs edges....)
I have given my two old sets away, to bar hopper guys, who do not care how they run, as long as they look cool ...
have fun....
Preston
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Post by terribletabo1 on Jan 14, 2012 20:00:05 GMT -5
Thanks for the input. I'm beginning to think I'm being a bit too particular with such a minor detail.  I might just get the Big Red Oval ones. |
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Post by preston on Jan 14, 2012 21:42:36 GMT -5
sand the chrome end plate with 80 grit, let them sit out in the rain.. a day or two.
lightly paint the pink outside view of the filters, olive drab color and all will be good to go.
Preston
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Post by terribletabo1 on Jan 15, 2012 0:29:52 GMT -5
sand the chrome end plate with 80 grit, let them sit out in the rain.. a day or two. lightly paint the pink outside view of the filters, olive drab color and all will be good to go. Preston What will that do to the chrome? |
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Post by preston on Jan 15, 2012 9:49:24 GMT -5
Sorry Terrible..
i was getting your bike mixed up with some of the other photos...
and i thought your tank was just metal that was sanded, like some of the bikes i have seen out here.
and with some of the chrome glare knocked off, would help the filters blend in and not be so bright and "pink"... ie noticeable.
Best to you.
Preston
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Post by terribletabo1 on Jan 15, 2012 20:31:35 GMT -5
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Post by preston on Jan 15, 2012 20:57:55 GMT -5
Well, that is different for sure !
and the front brake sure looks adequate enough to stop before enemy fire !
Preston
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Post by preston on Jan 17, 2012 19:33:28 GMT -5
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Post by terribletabo1 on Jan 17, 2012 21:35:16 GMT -5
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I might just get the Big Red Oval ones.
