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Post by spyug on Jun 21, 2006 15:15:51 GMT -5
I have reread the posts and see that a few guys have gone to the halogen headlight conversion. Apart from the odd short in the wiring problem are there any issues with these lights?
I know they suck the juice and I have read on some other boards that some bikes need some help in the electrical area to be able to run them ( bigger battery...some form of "ballast"??)
My old 78 headlight still works in both high and low beam but it puts out about as much light as the scented candles the old lady is always trying to burn down the house with.
I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Spyug.
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Post by shifty on Jun 21, 2006 17:35:49 GMT -5
I had the same problem spyug ... old stock headlight put out very little light. I bought Part #09-0051 (7" Halogen Lamp Kit) from MikesXS ... also threw in the super blue bulb Part #10-0027. The new unit from Mikes fit right in no problem. I put the super blue bulb in and have the one that came with the new 7" Halogen Lamp Kit as a spare. The difference is night and day for me.
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growl
Full Member
Posts: 167
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Post by growl on Jun 21, 2006 23:04:27 GMT -5
I bought the halogen conversion from Mike's... the tiny bit of extra juice is not a problem but the light at night is a vast improvement and cars obvious see me better during the day.
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Post by 50gary on Jun 22, 2006 6:55:23 GMT -5
Spyug, it's not a problem just convert the other lights to LED and save a few extra watts for the headlight. The blue tinted lights are just that, a tint to simulate HID lighting. Clear will be whiter and brighter than non-tinted lamps (bulbs) Lighting color is measured in Kelvins, the higher the number the whiter the "color temperature" 5000 Kelvins is like high noon daylight sky.
Cheers, 50gary
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Post by pops on Jun 22, 2006 7:51:45 GMT -5
I'm doing the conversion to halogen on my '72 right now. The stock bulb and headlight rim are married with screws and springs, things that can get lost. Or memory of how they mate can fade. So, instead of taking the stock unit apart, I ordered a new headlight rim from Speed and Sport (came to $97.92 total...ouch!) and installed the halogen assembly to it, instead. For early ones like mine, you have to use the 5 piece "W" clip set that Mike's sells to hold the "bulb" to the headlight rim. It was a real trip figuring out how to use the clips and my confidence in their holding ability is somewhat less than 100%. Time will tell, I guess. I have the original stock rim and headlight bulb in the box the halogen kit came in and can swap it back in about five minutes if things don't work out. What I don't like about this setup is that there is no left/right adjustment possible. The aiming has to all be accomplished with the fork ears and bottom bucket bracket. The original headlight bulb is rated at 50/40 watts. The halogen conversion is rated at 60/55 watts. That means it will pull an extra 15 watts on low beam and an extra 5 watts on high beam. I'm not worried about it using an extra 1.25 amps on low beam. I think the charging circuit can handle it. If it turns out to be a problem, I'll do as has been suggested and replace the stock tail light bulb with an LED bulb and that should make the electricals play nice again. The stock bulb uses 8 watts for tail light and 27 watts for stop light. Mike's sells two different LED bulbs, one has 19 LEDs and the other has 24 LEDs. At about a quarter of a watt per LED, even in stop light mode (all LEDs illuminated) that would work out to about 4.75 watts (0.4 amps) for the 19 and 6 watts (0.5 amps) for the 24, compared to 35 watts (2.9 amps) for the stock assembly. That should more than make up for the additional amp draw of the halogen headlight unit.
pops
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Post by crazypj22 on Jun 26, 2006 10:05:43 GMT -5
I'm using twin 35/35w halogens from early FZR100.(in mini lights) Changed tail light to LED and have not had any problems in 3 + yrs (at least not with the lights ;D) I did fit a relay in circuit to power headlights as I dont trust the 28yr old switches with 6 amps current (2x35=70w/12v= 5.83A) just check generator brushes and dont leave lights on when engine isnt running
PJ
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Post by spyug on Jun 29, 2006 13:43:32 GMT -5
So I picked up my sealed beam halogen today and installed it. Quite a difference over the 28 year old original yellow beam.
I didn't have the engine running but I did notice that when I had the light on and turned on the blinkers, they slowed down a lot and even more so when I hit the high beam and stabbed the brake.
I'm sure this will improve when I fire her up and I would like to go to the LED in the tail light. As LED bulbs are still scarce around here I will likely try and bag one of E-bay.
All in all I'm happy with the purchase and will pick up another one for the Virago.
Cheers,
Spyug.
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Post by pops on Jul 12, 2006 5:59:08 GMT -5
Finally completed the headlight conversion and buttoned her up (been busy maintaining la casa.) THEN it occured to me to test my connections. Turned on the key, pressed the horn button....BEEP. OK. Now headlight...it lit. Bright beam...OK but no indicator light on the bucket (damn!...so what, who needs it?) Next right turn signal....starter engages. OOPS! Guess I know what I'll be doing today. Might as well see to that bright beam indicator while I'm in there again. I just hate that wad of spaghetti in the headlight bucket.
pops
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