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Post by scottgiry on Dec 14, 2004 6:28:33 GMT -5
Got my left side switch apart, and out pops a tiny ball bearing. `Zactly where does it go?
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UB12
Full Member
 
1981 XS650SH N.S.W/AUSTRALIA
Posts: 189
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Post by UB12 on Dec 15, 2004 4:36:35 GMT -5
Well..............that depends on how much "apart" you mean. But saying you've just removed the two clamping screws that hold the top and bottom halves together I would say that it could be the ball bearing that assists in the opperation of your indicators. If this is the case it is just a matter of following the flat rod, that you move (left or right) to activate the indicators, to the end which should fit into a little plastic piece which holds a ball bearing.
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TWILKIN
Full Member
 
'72 XS2 650, FJR1300 Cypress, Tx.
Posts: 214
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Post by TWILKIN on Dec 15, 2004 21:15:15 GMT -5
First time I had this apart and the little thingees racing all over the floor of the garage, I'd wished I had a bedsheet under the bike to catch all the parts! Also upon trying to re-assemble wished I'd had four hands. It took a good 30 minutes of holding my breath to get the ball bearing back in its intended place. And now my turn signals have died again, so it will all have to come apart again to examine the contacts. Sigh........
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UB12
Full Member
 
1981 XS650SH N.S.W/AUSTRALIA
Posts: 189
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Post by UB12 on Dec 17, 2004 1:29:38 GMT -5
You may "sigh" twilkin but now that you've been there you know what to expect ;D. As for your indicators now not working here's what you might wont to check. After removing the screw that holds the toggle switch bar you will see underneath a flat plate, remove this and you should see three wires that connect to a verticle board. As you sit on the bike the wire to your left should be the power wire, the next or middle wire should be for the left indicator and the last one ( far right) should be for the right indicator. Chances are that one or all of these has come unsoldered. To successfully resolder you will need to clean ( metho should do ) thoroughly, clean the little eyelets ( points file should do ) and use some flux on a cotton bud to remove any grease and oil. Tin eyelets and resolder wires.
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TWILKIN
Full Member
 
'72 XS2 650, FJR1300 Cypress, Tx.
Posts: 214
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Post by TWILKIN on Dec 17, 2004 7:27:22 GMT -5
UB12, you're probably right about the need to resolder. I replaced the stock flasher with a solid state unit during the summer, and the signals worked for a while, but then gradually got to the point where only one worked, then neither worked. I'm hoping to find an unsoldered joint in the switch assembly that answers the question. Thanks for the order of wires in the assembly, as that was going to be my next troubleshooting question. If I complete each turn signal circuit with a jumper wire, that will tell me if the problem lies "downstream" from the switch before I warm up the soldering gun.
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Bevin
Full Member
 
Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 108
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Post by Bevin on Dec 17, 2004 14:47:32 GMT -5
Check your battery voltage and if its low check the alternator brushes. The turn signals are the first things to quit when current gets low so it may not be a switch/wiring issue.
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Post by ontheroadagain on Dec 17, 2004 14:52:40 GMT -5
...and make sure you have a good ground at the handlebars...
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TWILKIN
Full Member
 
'72 XS2 650, FJR1300 Cypress, Tx.
Posts: 214
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Post by TWILKIN on Dec 17, 2004 16:15:11 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestions on extra things to look at. I think the battery is good, but worth a check at idle and charging to be sure it's topped off. I'll charge, check volts, and then start and try turn signals right away to trouble shoot that possibility. Ontheroadagain, jumping the switch assembly with an alligator jumper cable would be a way to check for ground at the handlebar, right?
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Post by ontheroadagain on Dec 17, 2004 20:42:09 GMT -5
right on!
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