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Post by pamcopete on Nov 18, 2006 21:43:01 GMT -5
Ever notice that "Engine On / Off" switch on the right side of the handle bars? It just sits there. I turn it off sometimes when I am parked on a slope with the bike in gear to remind me so I don't start it before putting the bike in neutral. Sometimes I use it to turn off the engine so I can find the ever elusive neutral gear (green light). I think it's real purpose is so you can shut off the engine when a semi blows you off your bike on the Interstate. Just before you exit this world, you do the right thing and switch off the engine so the people who come to the rescue don't have to deal with a bike in flames with the engine running. Whatever.
That little switch can rob you of power. Yes it can. Over the past twenty years or so, it's contacts have been corroding. The little springs are all gummed up. The end result is high resistance. As much as 2 or 3 ohms. That's a lot. That means that you drop as much as a volt or so across the contacts. That means that your coils are not getting all the current they need to produce a good spark at the plugs. Hard starting. Rough idle. Missing at the top end.
So, every 5 years or so, you need to check the switch for high resistance and take it apart and clean those cheap brass contacts. If you can read any resistance at all with an everyday volt / ohmmeter, then the contacts are crap and need to be cleaned.
Or, for the cure to this problem, see my post on page 2.
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Post by eric123 on Jan 21, 2007 17:14:43 GMT -5
Good advice...I have removed my handlebar kill switch and made a new one under the seat...
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Post by pamcopete on Jan 22, 2007 20:07:42 GMT -5
eric123
That is so cool. So, if you are not sitting on the seat, the engine won't run?
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Post by eric123 on Jan 22, 2007 21:40:25 GMT -5
Its a little toggle, but now you have me thinking...It would be very easy to do using a small plunger type button...the only prob would be when I stand up or when my butt pops off the seat, the engine would cut out...
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Post by bighairyralph on Jan 22, 2007 23:05:43 GMT -5
Removing or moving the kill switch is a mistake. It is there in case you have a problem with the throttle getting stuck or other problems of the same ilk. These bikes only have a single "pull" throttle cable and it happens. Having the kill switch on the bars is important so that way you can easily kill the motor without moving your hand off the grip. You should always use the kill switch to turn the bike off so that you know where it is and it becomes second nature.
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Post by pamcopete on Jan 22, 2007 23:12:15 GMT -5
eric123
My God, you're serious! Couldn't you just clean the contacs in the "Kill" switch and get on with your life? What are you going to call this switch.....a Button?
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Post by pamcopete on Jan 22, 2007 23:24:54 GMT -5
bighairyralph
A point well taken. But I am always prepared to squeeze the clutch lever, because a more likely scenario is that the engine will lunch a valve and lock up the whole engine / transmission rear wheel and I will end up where I don't want to be. The clutch squeeze will also fix a stuck throttle, at the expense perhaps of the engine, a small price to pay to ride another day.
pamcopete
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Post by eric123 on Jan 22, 2007 23:36:24 GMT -5
Its pretty easy to reach down and hit the kill switch...Any probs with the throttle, I pull in the clutch...
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Post by pamcopete on Jan 22, 2007 23:57:43 GMT -5
eric123
Was there any improvement in starting or running the engine ?
pamcopete
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Post by pamcopete on Jan 23, 2007 18:25:26 GMT -5
eric123
After some sober reflection, I have to agree with "bighairyralph" and suggest that you should not disable the handle bar mounted "Kill" switch. If for no other reason, you are tampering with a standard safety feature that is on all motorcycles and there could be some bad consequences (like with your insurance) should you have a wreck due to a runaway throttle, regardless of whether or not you use the clutch grab to get around it.
So, my original tip was to disassemble the kill switch and clean the contacts to reduce the voltage drop and increase the current going to the coils.
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Post by eric123 on Jan 29, 2007 9:56:45 GMT -5
What can I say, I like to live dangerously...
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Post by crazypj22 on Jan 29, 2007 12:43:24 GMT -5
Me too.  Mine broke about 6 rs ago so I filled in the hole with JB weld and painted it black. Jumpered the wires together at fuse box end. No problems so far. ;D PJ |
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Post by slide on Jan 29, 2007 13:47:29 GMT -5
PJ, I thought I was the only one that filled that hole with JB. We could start a club. Brotherhood of JB Weld Fixes Everything,Local #650. I nominate Dwayne Burge for president as he is the master of JB. He even spreads it on his toast and poops pellets.
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Post by crazypj22 on Jan 29, 2007 13:54:27 GMT -5
LOL ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
PJ
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Post by pamcopete on Jan 29, 2007 19:50:12 GMT -5
Brotherhood of JB Weld Fixes Everything
Well, at least you will get more current to the coils without the "kill" switch. Got to get your priorities straight.
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