|
|
Post by ShakerNorm on May 19, 2012 20:38:02 GMT -5
One thing you might want to check is that the turn signal switch needs to ground to the bars - which means the bars have to be grounded to the frame for everything to work properly.
|
|
|
|
Post by xsleo on May 22, 2012 7:08:07 GMT -5
The turn signal circuit is fairly straight forward. Power runs from the brown wire to the flasher, from the flasher on the brown white wire to the switch. From the switch to the signals.
When you push the turn button to the left or right it starts the signals to flash, then resets to center.
Here's where I have the hard time. I have not torn a canceler apart, so i'm not sure whats inside.
When the flasher starts working a signal goes out on the green/yellow wire. This signal goes to the canceler. This latchs a relay so the signals stay flashing. The canceler uses signals from the reed switch in the speedo to determine distance traveled. It also has an internal clock to determine the length of time to let the signals flash.
With these inputs the flasher decides hust how long the sognals flash. As in when cruising at speed and you turn the signals on to change lanes the lights flash a short time. When your stopped to make a turn they stay flashing much longer.
When this time has elapsed the flasher grounds the green/yellow wire to stop the input signal, releasing the latch on the relay so it stops the lights flashing.
If you want to stop the lights from flashing you justy push the turn switch in, This mechanically returns the switch to center, stopping the green/yellow wire signal going to the canceler, this unlatches the relay, stopping the flasher.
This may or may not be exactly how it works but I think this is how it works.
Leo
|
|
|
|
Post by ignitionsystem on Apr 5, 2013 18:15:17 GMT -5
|
|
Brian
New Member
Posts: 30 
|
Post by Brian on Apr 6, 2013 7:50:31 GMT -5
Congrats Pete!!!
You're making a lot of 650 folks very happy!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by tomterrific on Apr 6, 2013 12:55:09 GMT -5
Hi Pete,
Much nicer eliminating the mechanical advancer. How does this wire up to the original Pamco? Is the original power transistor bypassed? Does this have a rev limiter or is there plans for one? Too many quwstions! ;^)
Tom
|
|
|
|
Post by ignitionsystem on Apr 6, 2013 14:55:29 GMT -5
Hi Pete, Much nicer eliminating the mechanical advancer. How does this wire up to the original Pamco? Is the original power transistor bypassed? Does this have a rev limiter or is there plans for one? Too many quwstions! ;^) Tom This first model is designed to add on to existing PAMCO's so it uses the output from the power transistor as an input to the MCU. Soon, I will be offering a simplified board for the pickup on the engine that is just a Hall effect sensor for new installations, but the original will still be available. |
|
|
|
Post by ignitionsystem on Jun 1, 2013 14:59:36 GMT -5
For you Honda fans: The PAMCO E-Advancer that completely eliminates the troublesome mechanical advancer is now available for the following models: www.cb350ignition.comwww.cb360ignition.comwww.cb450ignition.com (Which also fits the CB500 Twin) No more Saturdays screwing with the advancer springs and weights. No more idle hover due to sprung springs either. Improved advance curve that starts at idle instead of 2,000 RPM. Retarded spark below 100 RPM for easier kick starts and fewer broken ankles. Automatic kill switch keeps the coils cool. Have a party and trash the advancer! |
|
|
|
Post by ignitionsystem on Jun 1, 2013 15:04:28 GMT -5
Hi Pete, Much nicer eliminating the mechanical advancer. How does this wire up to the original Pamco? Is the original power transistor bypassed? Does this have a rev limiter or is there plans for one? Too many quwstions! ;^) Tom A simplified "points plate" is now available for new installations of the PAMCO E-Advancer. This simplified plate only has the Hall effect sensor, everything else is done in the E-Advancer.  |
|
|
|
Post by ignitionsystem on Oct 15, 2013 16:35:21 GMT -5
The original copper cap mechanical advancer replacement has been upgraded to a billet aluminum cap that takes the place of the mechanical advance.  |
|
|
|
Post by ignitionsystem on Sept 1, 2015 18:55:44 GMT -5
There is a new E-Advancer kit available from PAMCO for the '80 to '83 models that do not have an advance rod. This new kit includes an advance rod made from a simple 12mm aluminum rod and a couple of one piece brass bushings and a rotor and advancer replacement cap that fits the 12mm advance rod. No need for an actually functioning advance rod with the E-Advancer, which is also included in the kit, so there is a cost saving for the '80 to '83 crowd, especially if they use their stock coil.   Available on the web site www.yamahaxs650.com |
|
|
|
Post by ignitionsystem on Nov 27, 2017 19:36:51 GMT -5
Yes, it has been 10 years since the introduction of the first PAMCO ignition. That product is still available and is going strong. Since then the PAMCO E-Advancer was introduced to eliminate the mechanical advancer. Now, it's time to eliminate the E-Advancer external blue box of tricks and offer an integrated E-Ignition that combines the original concept of a simple and easy to install electronic ignition system for the venerable XS650. Here is the new E-Ignition. All of the features of the E-Advancer mounted on the original points plate with no external box of tricks. Using the latest surface mount technology, the new E-Ignition has the same chip as the E-Advancer mounted on a PC board with the original PAMCO. Simple three wire installation with no external box of tricks. Battery ground and coil.    |
|
|
|
Post by preston on Nov 27, 2017 20:01:31 GMT -5
Pete, Do you want me to put some test miles on it, up here in Maryland ? I will put some PAMCO stickers on the bike , for free advertising... (i have 1975 XS )
(Did i ever mention, my old Pamco works fine, and my advance weights have never given me problems, as I shoot them WD-40 now and then,,,, )
But I do like to try new things out.
Best to you, Preston
|
|
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5