Post by burfield2007 on Apr 21, 2008 7:59:09 GMT -5
This thread is great. I have installed the hybrid ignition system and it's working great. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I can post some pictures for those that area interested - but for the most part, I followed this thread. The reluctor I got from a mid-80's celica (Ebay) was larger than the other photos posted - I cut it down with a files during a movie or two. It's still a little big, but it fits. I haven't anchored it with any pins yet - don't know if I will. I used a lock-washer and it hasn't moved any in a couple hundred miles. I made a mounting bracket for the coil from steel - it looks like the one in the pictures in the beginning of this post. I fit in under the gas tank with the same orientation. It's a tight fit - with the HEI module mounted on the opposite side (it uses the same holes as one of the stock coils. I had to make my own plug wires - I bought an set for some 8 cylinder and cut one side of each wire to size, then re-crimped the distributor-side connector over the carbon conduit. All this makes the timing adjustment soooo easy...no more points and gap settings. Please feel free to ask any questions - I know that Mrriggs and other have helped me to complete this modificaiton and I owe whatever help I can give to others for this fact.
Mr Riggs, you told the fellow with 80 xs that he would have a bunch of rewiring to do if he used this ignition. I have 80 xs that i am building, is this system more reliable than the stock ignition, besides having parts available everywhere? What rewiring would have to be re done? I am going to rewire the bike anyway to get rid of turnsignals, and just have a headlight and brakelight. Thanks for your help
I'm an electrical idiot. I'm going to wire this into the stock wiring harness. Should I use 16ga wire or something heavier/lighter?
The only wires you need to worry about are the possitive wire to the coil and the negative wire from the coil to the C pin on the module. Sixteen gauge would be good for them. There is relatively no current going to or from the other pins so use whatever you have. I used a two conductor shielded wire to hook the pickup to the module. I don't think the shield is entirely necessary but it never hurts. If you are using the factory wiring, it would be a good idea to wire in a relay as Pete describes in this thread...
What'sa "two conductor shielded wire"? (did I mention I'm an electrical idiot? (type slow when you answer. I have to read everything twice...or more)).
That is two separate wires run next to each other with a foil "shield" wrapped around them. The foil is connected to ground at one end of the wire. The foil will absorb electromagnetic radiation which could otherwise be picked up by the wires and interpreted by the HEI module as a signal from the pickup. The result is an engine that runs poorly because the ignition is not firing when it is supposed to. This is known as false triggering and can be hard to diagnose. Years ago I built a crank triggered programmable ignition for my drag car. The wires for the crank trigger were run right next to the alternator, distributor, and spark plug wires and picked up too much interference. The car would hardly run. I wrapped the wires with foil tape and grounded it. Problem solved. Since then I have always shielded the ignition pickup wires just to be safe. However, now I use wire with a built-in shield because it's easier and looks nicer than a big foil wrapped mess. If you can't find a two conductor shielded wire then you could wrap them in foil or run them through a metal tube. Or just forget about the shield altogether, it's probably not even necessary in this application.
One more. Which is the positive side of the coil? I can't find any markings on mine.
The positive side is whichever one you hook the positive wire to. Dual output coils have no designated positive or negative, so hook it up however you want.
It's been a couple years since I put my system together and I have had NO troubles with it. The bike always starts on the first or second kick. Even when the regulator was only putting out 3 volts (no battery) the bike fired right up. I've ridden this thing year round in everything from below freezing to 100+ degree weather, and it has never missed a beat. In all that time I haven't removed the "points" cover for any reason but to show people what's under there. I recently moved the HEI module from under the seat to up by the neck. That was only done for cosmetic reasons, even kept most of the same wiring. So far, this has proven to be a reliable system.
You still use the Toyata trigger assembly. The rotor is a completely seperate component that is only used to distribute the secondary [high] voltage to the correct spark plug. So build the ignition as described, but substitute a single output coil for the dual output coil. Then figure out how to mount the rotor to the end of the advance shaft and how to mount the distributor cap to the "points" housing.
Also, the rotor never contacts the cap [except for the center button] the spark has to jump from the rotor to the posts on the cap. So it is actually a "waste spark" system just like the dual output coil. Two spark gaps wired in series, only there are more parts that the spark has to travel through in a distributor setup. There is no advantage to the distributor cap. You are just adding more parts to wear out and break.
Last Edit: Aug 18, 2008 13:10:45 GMT -5 by mrriggs
Post by billybadass on Aug 20, 2008 11:57:53 GMT -5
Well, at least it looks cool. Probably all moot anyway, since I can't seem to find one of these distributors. These old cars are all being crushed...steel is bringing a pretty penny these days. I guess I'll just have to save my pennies for Pete's setup.
I guess the obvious next question to ask is "are the 6cyl versions of these distributors gonna work?"
You don't have to use a 4 cylinder Toyota distributor, that's just what I used. Any pickup and reluctor that you can fit in there will work. Four, Six or Eight cylinder, it doesn't matter. Just grind off all but two of the reluctor teeth and you are good to go.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5