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Post by burfield2007 on Apr 21, 2008 7:59:09 GMT -5
This thread is great. I have installed the hybrid ignition system and it's working great. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I can post some pictures for those that area interested - but for the most part, I followed this thread. The reluctor I got from a mid-80's celica (Ebay) was larger than the other photos posted - I cut it down with a files during a movie or two. It's still a little big, but it fits. I haven't anchored it with any pins yet - don't know if I will. I used a lock-washer and it hasn't moved any in a couple hundred miles. I made a mounting bracket for the coil from steel - it looks like the one in the pictures in the beginning of this post. I fit in under the gas tank with the same orientation. It's a tight fit - with the HEI module mounted on the opposite side (it uses the same holes as one of the stock coils. I had to make my own plug wires - I bought an set for some 8 cylinder and cut one side of each wire to size, then re-crimped the distributor-side connector over the carbon conduit. All this makes the timing adjustment soooo easy...no more points and gap settings. Please feel free to ask any questions - I know that Mrriggs and other have helped me to complete this modificaiton and I owe whatever help I can give to others for this fact.
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dirk
New Member
Posts: 1
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Post by dirk on May 18, 2008 20:05:21 GMT -5
Mr Riggs, you told the fellow with 80 xs that he would have a bunch of rewiring to do if he used this ignition. I have 80 xs that i am building, is this system more reliable than the stock ignition, besides having parts available everywhere? What rewiring would have to be re done? I am going to rewire the bike anyway to get rid of turnsignals, and just have a headlight and brakelight. Thanks for your help
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Post by bighairyralph on Aug 4, 2008 16:36:40 GMT -5
I'm an electrical idiot. I'm going to wire this into the stock wiring harness. Should I use 16ga wire or something heavier/lighter?
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 7, 2008 23:12:40 GMT -5
I'm an electrical idiot. I'm going to wire this into the stock wiring harness. Should I use 16ga wire or something heavier/lighter? The only wires you need to worry about are the possitive wire to the coil and the negative wire from the coil to the C pin on the module. Sixteen gauge would be good for them. There is relatively no current going to or from the other pins so use whatever you have. I used a two conductor shielded wire to hook the pickup to the module. I don't think the shield is entirely necessary but it never hurts. If you are using the factory wiring, it would be a good idea to wire in a relay as Pete describes in this thread... xs650temp.proboards29.com/index.cgi?board=ID&action=display&thread=7878&page=2The peak current of the HEI is far too much for the factory wiring. |
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Post by bighairyralph on Aug 7, 2008 23:43:20 GMT -5
Erk. Okay, this'll take a few minutes than I thought......
What'sa "two conductor shielded wire"? (did I mention I'm an electrical idiot? (type slow when you answer. I have to read everything twice...or more)).
One more. Which is the positive side of the coil? I can't find any markings on mine.
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 8, 2008 14:23:09 GMT -5
What'sa "two conductor shielded wire"? (did I mention I'm an electrical idiot? (type slow when you answer. I have to read everything twice...or more)). That is two separate wires run next to each other with a foil "shield" wrapped around them. The foil is connected to ground at one end of the wire. The foil will absorb electromagnetic radiation which could otherwise be picked up by the wires and interpreted by the HEI module as a signal from the pickup. The result is an engine that runs poorly because the ignition is not firing when it is supposed to. This is known as false triggering and can be hard to diagnose. Years ago I built a crank triggered programmable ignition for my drag car. The wires for the crank trigger were run right next to the alternator, distributor, and spark plug wires and picked up too much interference. The car would hardly run. I wrapped the wires with foil tape and grounded it. Problem solved. Since then I have always shielded the ignition pickup wires just to be safe. However, now I use wire with a built-in shield because it's easier and looks nicer than a big foil wrapped mess. If you can't find a two conductor shielded wire then you could wrap them in foil or run them through a metal tube. Or just forget about the shield altogether, it's probably not even necessary in this application. The positive side is whichever one you hook the positive wire to. Dual output coils have no designated positive or negative, so hook it up however you want. |
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 8, 2008 15:27:04 GMT -5
It's been a couple years since I put my system together and I have had NO troubles with it. The bike always starts on the first or second kick. Even when the regulator was only putting out 3 volts (no battery) the bike fired right up. I've ridden this thing year round in everything from below freezing to 100+ degree weather, and it has never missed a beat. In all that time I haven't removed the "points" cover for any reason but to show people what's under there. I recently moved the HEI module from under the seat to up by the neck. That was only done for cosmetic reasons, even kept most of the same wiring. So far, this has proven to be a reliable system.   |
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Post by bighairyralph on Aug 8, 2008 23:46:18 GMT -5
Cool! Even I can understand that! Now, I'll just go bug Pete for awhile  |
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billybadass
Full Member
1978 XS650 (motor from 77)
Posts: 140
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Post by billybadass on Aug 17, 2008 22:29:45 GMT -5
Could somebody venture a guess as to how the VW thing might be wired up? I'm terrible at electronics.
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 18, 2008 7:57:52 GMT -5
Could somebody venture a guess as to how the VW thing might be wired up? I'm terrible at electronics. It is wired exactly the same. The only difference is you use a single output coil instead of the dual output coil. The single output coil runs to a distributor cap which feeds to the spark plugs. |
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billybadass
Full Member
1978 XS650 (motor from 77)
Posts: 140
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Post by billybadass on Aug 18, 2008 10:18:21 GMT -5
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 18, 2008 13:03:20 GMT -5
You still use the Toyata trigger assembly. The rotor is a completely seperate component that is only used to distribute the secondary [high] voltage to the correct spark plug. So build the ignition as described, but substitute a single output coil for the dual output coil. Then figure out how to mount the rotor to the end of the advance shaft and how to mount the distributor cap to the "points" housing.
Also, the rotor never contacts the cap [except for the center button] the spark has to jump from the rotor to the posts on the cap. So it is actually a "waste spark" system just like the dual output coil. Two spark gaps wired in series, only there are more parts that the spark has to travel through in a distributor setup. There is no advantage to the distributor cap. You are just adding more parts to wear out and break.
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billybadass
Full Member
1978 XS650 (motor from 77)
Posts: 140
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Post by billybadass on Aug 20, 2008 11:57:53 GMT -5
Well, at least it looks cool. Probably all moot anyway, since I can't seem to find one of these distributors. These old cars are all being crushed...steel is bringing a pretty penny these days. I guess I'll just have to save my pennies for Pete's setup.
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billybadass
Full Member
1978 XS650 (motor from 77)
Posts: 140
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Post by billybadass on Aug 20, 2008 15:33:41 GMT -5
I guess the obvious next question to ask is "are the 6cyl versions of these distributors gonna work?"
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Post by mrriggs on Aug 21, 2008 7:21:23 GMT -5
I guess the obvious next question to ask is "are the 6cyl versions of these distributors gonna work?" You don't have to use a 4 cylinder Toyota distributor, that's just what I used. Any pickup and reluctor that you can fit in there will work. Four, Six or Eight cylinder, it doesn't matter. Just grind off all but two of the reluctor teeth and you are good to go. |
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